JerseyHarold
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Posts
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Everything posted by JerseyHarold
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I tried both approaches and they both worked great. Thanks to you both!
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I tried to look up a very old thread that I started and can't find a search function for the forum. How can I get to it? Thanks, Harold
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The link below is to the temperature gauge repair page on the 1933 Plymouth website run by Tod Fitch (who also participates here). The operating principles are the same. Hope it helps. 1933 Plymouth Temperature Gauge Repair (ply33.com)
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Video of 1955 Plymouth being built on the line
JerseyHarold replied to plymouthcranbrook's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Good video, thanks for posting. -
I think I read that one of the outer tie rod ends has left hand threads. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
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Does that mean the torque shaft clip isn't needed? I don't recall seeing one in my present '52 or a few others I've had.
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The hub could be moving slightly relative to the axle causing your squeak. Check to see if the 'key' is missing from either rear axle (where the rear brake drum attaches). Also check the rear drum attaching nut for proper tightness.
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This happened to a friend of ours who had hundreds of National Geographic magazines stored in his attic.
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Looks like none of this stuff will fit my Plymouths. Thanks everyone for your replies.
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I was going through my shelves and found a large coffee can with what I believe to be mostly wheel studs. Some are labeled 'R' and others 'L'. I got them at a small-town Dodge dealer that went out of business in the early '80's. Is there any place on a 1951-1952 Plymouth that these are used? I'm thinking they are all truck applications but want to be sure before I dispose of them. The smallest-diameter components are the ones at the bottom of the picture. Are they shock mount bolts? Any ideas appreciated. Thanks, Harold
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The Meadowbrook must be getting lonely.....
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Paul, Lyme disease is a real bummer. Best wishes for a speedy recovery. My thoughts are with you. Harold
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Just a reminder that flathead sixes do NOT need leaded gasoline because they have hardened valve seats. Mopar was way ahead of its time...
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Check the dimmer switch. Sometimes the terminals get cruddy and you don't get output to the headlights.
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That's a sharp Fairlane and definitely deserves to be the keeper that it is. My first car was similar, a '64 Mercury Comet Caliente that was given to me by my cousin's friend because it didn't run. Within a half-hour of getting it home (my father pushed it with his '65 Coronet using a tire as a cushion) I had it running up and down our street. It had a 260 as well and was very reliable. The non-integral power steering let go so I sold it on. Good memories!
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My 1951 Plymouth Concord Barn Find....what have i done?!
JerseyHarold replied to Logans51's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Repro floor and rockers are available from a couple of sources. Price and quality vary. In the old days, they even made outside trunk corner patch panels and 'dogleg' panels for the 4-door sedans (not applicable in your case). I suggest you make sure you have a good title for the car before spending any money on it. Depending on your state it may be relatively easy to correct missing paperwork or nearly impossible (for example, in Pennsylvania plan on hiring a lawyer and going to court if you need a title created). Hope this helps, Harold -
My 1951 Plymouth Concord Barn Find....what have i done?!
JerseyHarold replied to Logans51's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Welcome to the forum. Your car has great potential judging by the pictures you posted. Being nearly rust-free is a major bonus. I have a '51 Concord business coupe as well. Mine hasn't run since 1973 and is composed of parts from about half a dozen cars and has badly rusted floors and rockers. I'll get to it one of these days (or years...). Don't hesitate to ask questions. Someone always chimes in with an answer! -
Back in the 1990's I sent my '52 Cambridge tank to Gas Tank Renu. The tank had so many rust holes you could see daylight through them. They cleaned it out and then used a baked-on 'mystery coating' on the tank. It's still good after all these years.
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I own a Cambridge sedan and Concord business coupe. To my knowledge, the front floor mat is the same for both the sedan and business coupe. The rear mat in the business coupe is shorter and configured differently than the sedan. The sedan trunk mat is a woven material and the business coupe is rubber and much larger. Van converters sometimes pull the full-length rubber matting from the vehicle they're converting and you can get it from them inexpensively. You can then cut it down to fit your car.
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The car looks great. Did you use solid enamel or base coat/ clear coat?
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I bought a Plymouth engine and in order to get it home I borrowed a 'cherry picker' engine hoist, disassembled it for traveling, got to the seller's house, reassembled the picker, laid the flathead six on its side on a de-mounted tire, got home, re-assembled the hoist (again) and unloaded the engine. Cumbersome but it worked. I have a couple of engines on cut-down supermarket shopping carts to which I added a plywood floor. They work well. (The carts were damaged ones that the local supermarket manager gave to me). I had my engine on an HF stand and didn't trust it so I added blocks of wood for support at the front.
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To my knowledge, the little pin can't be depressed if the switch is in the locked position. If you don't have a key, the cylinder can be picked so it turns and then you can depress the pin and remove the cylinder from the housing.
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Are you talking about John Valby (aka Dr. Dirty)? I saw him a few times when I lived in Buffalo. Very funny but not for polite ears!
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When I sold new Fords in the 1980's, we used this company for mobility modifications: Browse Products | Drive Master Mobility
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Will a mid-sixties starter from a 383 physically interchange with one for a flathead six (besides the different voltage) ? I have some leftovers from my '66 Sport Fury that I need to decide whether or not to keep. Thanks for any ideas, Harold
