JerseyHarold

I recall reading that floor braces for certain Jeeps can be used. I don't know an exact model application. You might want to check a Jeep supply catalog to see if any look like they'll work.

The chassis numbers were probably located in out-of-the-way places so law enforcement could identify stolen vehicles if the need arose. The chassis number was also the only place on the car that tied the engine number to the rest of the vehicle.

No offense, but I'd consider preliminary-prepping the body and then shipping it out to Maaco (or similar production paint service) for final prep and actual spraying. They paint cars all the time and would likely do a better job and be much quicker than a novice.

They need proof of ownership before processing requests. I included scans of my car titles. Danielle's email address is: danielle.szostak@stellantis.com Let us know how it works out...

I want to give a big shout out to Danielle at Stellantis for sending the build records for my two Plymouths. It only took a few weeks to receive them, much faster than originally estimated. It's nice to have more background information for both the '51 business coupe and the '52 Cambridge. The build dates and key codes are good to have on-file. I bought the Cambridge on Staten Island, NY and the original selling dealer was located there, so no big surprise. I got the business coupe on Long Island and the original selling dealer was in Detroit. The car moved around quite a bit! If you haven't done so, it might be worthwhile to contact Stellantis and see if they have any info on your car.

Just a guess, but can the engine have an internal coolant leak that hydrolocks it and makes it difficult to crank?

I recall reading about this a while ago. It's a scam to get you to buy their overpriced vehicle history report.

Steve did an episode from that same Connecticut junkyard featuring a '52 Plymouth and there were quite a few errors. Caused a number of chuckles in this forum.

I've been interested in (and obsessed with) P23's since I was a little kid. The amount of incorrect information in this video is laughable. First off, the car is a '52. It goes downhill from there. Steve should really have spent more time researching the topic. BTW, in my experience the Cambridge and Concord cars got the plain radio delete plate and the Cranbrook got the one with a speaker grille.

It's great to hear you've responded well to this new treatment. FWIW, I did some googling and saw that Zanubrutinib is covered by Medicare. Might be worth looking into.

Along the same lines, here's a '49 on a construction fence at Boston University.

I don't even remember who the co-worker was....time flies!

You're making good progress. Looks great!

I replaced the hose back in the '90's and don't have the part number anymore. The Gates catalog had a separate section for this type of hose and listed various diameters. I bought mine at an auto parts store and they sold me a section from a bulk roll.

I replaced the rubber section of the fuel filler hose in my '52 Cambridge with a Gates product that had a metal strip molded into it. Maybe it was there for grounding purposes.

I've heard of cases where the engine oil crossover pipe was installed backwards during a rebuild and then it would get hit by the crankshaft throw and make a noise. The noise may be intermittent due to the engine being cold or hot.

I found that a readily available fuel filter used on Fords works well. It's an AC GF434 (comparable to Wix 33046). It screws into the fuel pump inlet on one side, and has a hose nipple on the other. Several people have also used this filter and had good results.

Way-back-when in engineering school I remember being taught that the front ('lead') shoe on a drum brake is self-energizing. The shoe is pulled tighter by the rotation of the drum and thus gives more effective stopping power. The trailing shoe acts to reduce the stopping power of a drum brake (in a sense repelling the drum). The trailing shoes have shorter linings so there is less contact between the undesirable portion of the lining and the drum. If someone can offer a more descriptive explanation please do. The last time I thought about this stuff was when Nixon was President!

I had a bunch of early-'70's Fords with carbs that looked just like this one. They were on 302-351-400 V8's. Hope this helps.

Be thankful you don't have the original Plymouth jack. They had a lousy design and allowed the car to easily slip off (BTDT).

FWIW, I heard recently that the oil tube can be installed two ways, right and wrong. If wrong, a crankshaft throw hits the tube and makes a mystery knocking noise. The guy I spoke to went nuts until he figured it out. I haven't checked this personally but figured I'd put the info out.

Those retaining washers look like they should work. I just had a brainstorm.... why not use a J-nut from the side after the stud is completely removed?

On my '52 I drilled out the remnants of the stud then put a machine screw through the hole from the back and tightened with a nut and washer. It worked well.

Try checking Section 18 of the parts catalog. A lot of fasteners and miscellaneous hardware are listed with some dimensions.

Good looking Plymouth. I've got a '51 and '52 so I'm a little biased! Have you tried running the engine with the gas cap removed? It may have a clogged vent.