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JerseyHarold

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Everything posted by JerseyHarold

  1. In 1978 I saw an adjustable photo flood lamp on a trash heap. Picked it up and am still using it today. What's your all-time best find?
  2. See if there is a Fastenal store near you. The have a huge variety of fasteners and will probably have the size/style you need. Their website is Fastenal.com .
  3. To my knowledge, you could get the better heater in both the Cambridge and Cranbrook. My father had a '52 Cambridge (bought new) with the better heater factory-installed.
  4. The Cranbrook was the high-line model. The biggest identifiers would be stainless steel trim around the windshield and a horn ring. The Cambridge (low-line) has rubber around the windshield and a horn button.
  5. Welcome to the forum. You picked a great car...I have a '52 too! Don't hesitate to ask any questions you may have. The answers are here. A service manual is a must-have, preferably an original because sometimes the repros don't have clear pictures. A parts book can't hurt, either. eBay is your friend. The factory issued service manuals covering a range of years, so the one you should look for is the '46-'52 edition. Other editions (like '46-'51 and '46-'54) are also useful, but may vary on year-specific items. Like the owners' manual says...'good going in your new Plymouth'
  6. The radio-delete plate for lower-line models of the '52 was a fairly plain gray-painted sheet metal panel. The delete plate in the Cranbrook was the same as shown above except there was a filler plate covering the dial/ button area. There was a completely chrome-plated radio plate used for some aftermarket radios...I had one once but sold it. The 7-button radio was the upscale option and had more tubes and produced better sound. It could also pull-in distant radio stations clearly. My father had the 7-button radio in his '52 and we could easily listen to far-away stations very clearly.
  7. The name soldiered on later than the sixties. I had several B-body '76 Sport Suburban wagons.
  8. Try wire-brushing the bolt threads if you can reach them then spray PB again.
  9. The bumper brackets are held by two nuts/bolts on each side. Remove the two forward bolts on each side and the bumper should pivot down from the rear bolts. Makes it easier to remove and install.
  10. Nice job. They work very well with the lines of the car.
  11. A long time ago I read that you can wrap a length of electrical solder around a brake line to keep it from collapsing while being bent. This might work for the side trim as well.
  12. I'd slide a piece of carboard between the radiator and fan blade so you don't damage the radiator when you lift it out.
  13. There is a railroad museum in a state park near us that has an operable Plymouth locomotive in their collection.
  14. First experience: Coming home from the hospital in our '52 Cambridge. Latest experience: Just got home from the UPS store where I was quoted an outrageous price to ship an NOS Plymouth fender I'm trying to sell. Lots of Mopar experiences between those two....
  15. Bill, Thanks for searching out the photos. The maroon business coupe picture you found clearly shows the tilted-face lenses. It also looks like the passenger side and driver side lenses have opposite tilts, so both my tilted lenses are for the passenger side.
  16. Was one side of a fastback have a tilted lens and the other a flat-face lens? If it did, which side gets what style?
  17. I have 4 Plymouth taillight lenses marked 'PLYAD' that I've pinned -down to second-series '49 business coupe and/or fastback. Two of them have a tilted face and the other two don't. I can't find a part number anywhere on them. Is flat-face fastback and tiled-face business coupe, or the other way around? Does a pair consist of one flat-face lens and one tilted face lens? I've attached pictures that may help. Any clarification appreciated. Thanks, Harold
  18. According to my '46-51 service manual, P15 overall width is 73-5/8"
  19. I've had several P23's, all from New York, that were registered with the motor number. I did the 'pencil tracing' thing with the DMV and switched them all over to the Vehicle Number on the doorpost. Very easy process in NY.
  20. On another thread here many years ago, it was discovered that the fuel tank sending unit cover in the trunk floor was made out of the round speedometer cutout leftovers. You may be able to get a match by scanning the cover.
  21. It could be that somebody found a 'near match' from some other application that they are now selling as correct for your car. That's why the lower mounts are wrong. Are there any part numbers on the new motor mounts or packaging? If yes, Google the numbers to try and find out what they actually fit.
  22. I think I have what you need. Check your Private Messages. Harold
  23. Take a look at the links that go into the wheel cylinders that push the shoes out when your foot is on the pedal. Some links have a much deeper slot than others, so when the cylinder pushes out the links they do not move the shoes. If the pistons move too far out (another possibility with incorrect links) they can leak brake fluid.
  24. The North American P18 sedans had a flat rear glass to my knowledge. I believe that the Australian P18's were manufactured with Richards' bodies of local manufacture so the rear window may be unique to Australian-built cars. Check flatness by holding a small ruler against the glass. I'd visit glass shops in your area and see if they have catalog info going back that far.
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