JerseyHarold

Years ago I heard someone else say they could open their trunk with a dime and couldn't wrap my head around how using a dime got around all the pins in the lock. Can you explain further?

There were two styles of factory radio for the P23: The seven-button 'better' one as pictured and a 5-button basic radio. Back in the day, the Howard Sams company published monthly 'Sams Photo Facts' covering repair and adjustment for just about every electronic device being sold. They made one for the 812 radio that I'm sure would be useful for you. They come up occasionallly on eBay and some libraries have them in their reference section.

During my short-lived career as a spring design engineer we had to bake our cad-plated springs to get rid of hydrogen embrittlement. Is that true for stamped sheet metal parts as well?

Maybe the muffler was installed backwards and the reverese flow deformed the baffles internally?

To the OP.... I'd ask at several used car dealers to see if they can recommend a person or shop that they use. They usually know of someone. What kind of paint job to you want to get? Just a 'sand and spray' (sometimes called 'scuff and shoot') to freshen up the appearance or do you want to go for a full-blown bare metal respray? What condition is the paint/body in now? Do you need to repair dents or rust? Lots of factors to consider. If you're just looking for a basic repaint, I'd try to find a bodyman that does side-work, then send the car in to a Maaco or equivalent for the finish coat. I've done that with several cars and was pleased with the results. Around here, there are many cars at shows that were done by Maaco and they look very nice. The key is in the prep, as I'm sure you know. Hope this helps...

I was in Buffalo in the mid-seventies so rust would definitely have been a big issue. The shifters had white knobs---were they Hurst?

Not too complicated to get at. You have to remove the horn ring (watch for 3 little cylindrical spacers...you don't want to lose them) and then remove the attaching nut and use a steering wheel puller to get the wheel off. The steering shaft is one long steel rod that goes into the steering box. Look on the underside of the steering wheel for a couple of recessed screws ( that might only be on lower-line 'horn button' cars).

Assuming it was factory installed, you have to remove the steering wheel to get to the turn signal switch.

My taste runs towards plainer and more utilitarain. In addition to my '52 Cambridge and '51 Concord business coupe, I'd lke a '65 Coronet 440 4-door, and a '76-'77 Aspen or Volare wagon with a floor shift manual transmission (wanted to buy one new, then chickened out).

Hickory, Sorry to hear. That's awful. At least no one was hurt. Harold

I met Bob a number of years ago at the Rhinebeck show in New York. He was very nice and added a lot to this forum.

Just a WAG but maybe the manifold heat riser valve got damaged somehow causing excessive back pressure?

That somebody was me. I used u-shaped fender washers so I could pull them right out as I went along inserting the welt. The prior owner had gotten paint on the original black plastic welting and it took me a good few hours to clean everything off, using a variety of non-abrasive products. When I got done, the welting looked like new.

If it's still a mechanical voltage regulator, I'd try smacking the VR by hand with the engine running when it's showing a discharge. If the ammeter shows it's charging again, I'd change out the VR.

Welcome to the forum. A couple of things that may interest you... The Plymouth engine was known as the 'Powerflow Six' in the early '50's. I've got '51 and '52 Plymouths and the short-wheelbase cars had a smaller non-oil-bath air cleaner. I believe it was the same in 1950. The '50 fastback has its own unique taillights. They were a one-piece assembly that included the housing. Nothing else interchanges.

Looking great. When is the maiden voyage?

I'd be willing to bet it is the same car. It's hard to believe there are two shiny New Brunswick Blue fastbacks relatively close together in the northeast. I saw it in the Flemington area and was behind it on the highway for a few miles.

Welcome to the forum. Great looking car. Did your car come from the northern New Jersey area? I saw a fastback in your color up there a few years ago. Oil filters were optional on the Concord, being an entry-level model. I have a '51 business coupe and a '52 Cambridge (both in not-so-great condition) and you might say I'm partial to these cars.

Thank you!

I found four '49 Plymouth taillight lenses among my stuff and am trying to pin down their exact applications. They are all marked PLYAD and I believe the 'non-tilted' ones are for a fastback and the tilted ones are for a business coupe. Is this correct? How can you tell which side of the car they're for? There are no part numbers on any of them, which is unusual compared to other years I've seen. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks, Harold

Interesting video. Being filmed in Canada I thought the car would be a Plodge. I also thought Dodges got lug nuts, not bolts.

I've seen that car in person and the firewall had a recess put into it to accomodate the slant six. Whoever swapped the drivetrain did a nice job.

Are the front brake hoses correct for the car? If the wrong length, they may bend and pinch on tight turns, not allowing the wheel cylinders to retract because brake fluid is still pressurizing them.

Could be that someone chemically stripped the part to prepare it for replating and never completed the project. The one shiny spot is where it was clamped before it was dunked in stripper.

It recently took 4 weeks for an item I shipped from New Jersey to Illinois to arrive. The tracking stalled in the Jersey City Distribution Center. I put in a 'missing mail' complaint and a few days later the package magically arrived at its destination. The tracking jumped from 'Jersey City' to 'Delivered' in one giant step.