allbizz49

Only picture of anything water based on my phone. Colors and car aren't my taste whatsoever but customers money. He changed hoods, needed it to match. Car was already really nice.

So, to answer your question, no. Basecoat (color) is waterborne. Clears are still urethane. The thing about the new clear is they take just an activator, no.more reducers. A lot depends on where you live. I painted in a small shop in Amador county and we can still get laquer there. Paint is like a lot of stuff, people are giving out a lot of disinformation. Waterborne basecoat does spray completely different than solvent based. You shoot basically one wet coat. More like one and a half coats. You do a light dropcoat after the first wet one. It takes longer to flash as well, especially if you don't have a lot of air flow. Air movement is key to it drying. There are still solvent based basecoats you can buy. I shoot them regularly along with custom paints like house of kolor. It's still solvent based. If you're painting a solid color, look into single stage urethanes. They are great for solids. Here is a hood I did in base/clear with water based color and urethane clear. Right out of the gun, no buffing yet. You can get good results with it. All depends on what kind of finish you are looking for. Good luck.

Rusty hope is the way to go. My opinion of course.

Band of Brothers? Wow, I just made an offer on a 1944 Garand......gotta buy them before the new gestapo shuts us down. I have the 2 single thickstun too but with Carters. Great intake.Good luck with the 230. I hate to say it but I gave a complete less carb 230 away not too long ago.

Throw some fresh plugs and good gas in it like suggested. Little seafoam won't hurt. Go for a good drive. Don't just let it sit and idle, putt around town. Take that sucker out for a good hard drive. I see a lot of these old cars just babied, putting around, lots of idling. In town not being opened up. They need to be opened up now and again, blow that crap out of the motor. Don't abuse it, but give it a romp.

Why not leave the engine and tranny in there until you pull the front fenders and fenderwells, hood, and radiator support? If you're restoring it, body has to come off, why not pull everything else first?

Weekend of elbow grease and some tinkering will bring it to life. Good luck and have fun!

Personally, I don't think I could part with those considering the history. I'd hang them somewhere in my shop until I found a use for them. Your parts though and it's still a free country, at least for a little while longer.

1500 ish? I've got 500 in a Thickstun intake and 2 carters. Another grand for the head.

I have a a sisson choke. I believe the rod too. If you want them, they're yours for the cost of shipping.

Hardwood, tile or laminate...........? Sorry, couldn't help myself. ?

I've never seen a spec for gaps but 3/16" seems to be about right. I've gapped quite a few cars and sometimes, especially on these older cars, you will have to grind edges and/or weld them up. If you are using filler plus priming and blocking multiple times, gaps close up quick. Once you get your gaps where you like them, make sure to drill and pin the hinges. That way your panels will always go back to that spot. I usually paint everything in pieces with the panels off of the car so pinning them is a must for me. Patience is the key to gapping a car.

Believe me, I'll.modify or cut anything up.I'm a hotrodder but my whole point of the carb was for simplicity.

They quit putting drum brakes on cars a while ago too. How about ABS and satellite navigation? You running four wheel discs? How about points and generators? My daily has all of the above plus bias tires. 10k plus a year not counting my carbed bikes that I ride on the regular. What's your point? Carburetor was a suggestion to keep it simple. Why have an old car just to.modernize the **** out of it? The beauty of an old car is that it's old.........

It boils down to is it worth the time, money and effort. Anything can be made to work. Chassis swap or even front frame swap probably isn't necessary. Why do all of that when you can fab up or even buy mounts? Is it going to be a daily driver or fair weather cruiser? Are you totally sold on the v6? If so, I would yank the flatty and start mocking up the new motor and tranny. Really.just simple hot rodding, guys have been doing it forever. A bit more satisfying when you're done and you did it yourself. I recall Mopar performance selling a roots supercharger for those 3.9s, haha.

I don't think chucking the injection would be a disservice. Carbs are great if you're willing to take the time to tune them. **** ECUs have left me stranded more than once on motorcycles. My carb stuff has never failed me. None of my cars are new enough to have them but computer controlled anything is destined to fail. That's been my experience at least. I say if you want an injected v6 in your ride, go for it but there are other options. Good luck and have fun with it.

Just put a v8 in there if you are going to a swap. It's really not that hard. Like sniper said, 3.9 is just a shorter LA motor. Whatever you do, ditch the injection and put a carburetor in it's place. Less wiring to deal with.

Not mine. Maybe he'll ship it...I'd be willing to pick it up and ship it to you if need be. Not too far from me. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/d/napa-dodge-flathead-dual-carb-intake/7245791196.html

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Left-Column/Antique-Classics.html

I run g78 bias about 10,000 miles a year with no issues. That's even hauling and carrying loads in my 59 F100 with a 223 and 3 speed. If you want a radial, 225/70/15 should be about right. Just figure the taller the tire, less bottom end you will have but you will have higher cruising speeds. Tire size will come down to how and where you drive. If you just cruise around town and do short trips, you can get away with a shorter tire. If you are going for distance and higher speeds, go with a taller tire.

I color match old paint with modern paints on the regular. Pretty simple if you are talking about brush touching chips. Take your car to a paint supply shop and ask them to make you up a small amount of single stage and get a little hardener with it. Take a striping brush and fill the chips with a drop of catalyzed paint. If you are shooting whole panels, you'll be doing some blending to get it right. Some of the paint jobbers have cameras that will get you a blendable match. Hard to beat a good eye of someone that knows how to match paint though.

As a painter, I have to ask what your budget is. Good paint isn't cheap and cheap paint isn't good. I'm averaging about 4k just in materials on completes. Not just paint but all of the consumables that are involved. I don't live too far from you but I don't do cheap paint jobs. I don't believe in dropping quality to drop the price. There are plenty of shops, at least around here, that will do nice driver quality paint jobs for 6-10k depending on bodywork involved.

California is a drug, crime and homeless infested dump but man, I drive all year. It would kill me to park my cars, guess that's why I'm still here.......

Unless you're totally hung up on the r10, look into a t5 swap. I went back and forth for a while, mostly because I wanted to keep the column shift but went with a t5. Simple swap and pretty inexpensive.

In all reality, 40 footers are what everyone needs. I have done full frame off, 100% nut and bolt builds for people so they can be trailered around, never really enjoyed. What good is a car if you're too afraid to drive it? I would bet money you enjoy driving your 40 footer a lot more than they enjoy staring at their garage candy.