allbizz49

I drive every day on bias tires with no issues. All year, every day. My newest ride is a 59 f100, I drive only old stuff. I have literally 100s of thousands of miles on bias tires with no issues at all. Anybody who has driven early mopars with power steering knows how shitty they steer. Feels like you're on a sub 9 second pass just going 45 down the road. No feel for the road at all. I'm talking daily commute 40 miles, pickinh up parts and going to shows 200 miles away. I don't use my cars as weekend novelties, they're driven like they were 60 years ago. Of course bias tires ride and steer better but if you keep your car maintained, no reason to not run bias tires.

Sacramento vintage ford sells cloth wiring.

That's a nice setup. Simple and clean looking.

The fittings were on the carbs when I bought them. I'm a ways away from finalizing it but I will be running the matching thickstun fuel block to feed the carbs. I have a factory mechanical pump like you as well. I have Langdons cast headers.

Sounds like you're on a tight budget. There are ways to do this without breaking the bank. You might be money ahead getting the aerostar springs and relocating the shocks. You may still need to cut the coils down, trial and error. Also, like I said earlier, relocation the spring plate to the bottom of the control arm is fairly easy. On a side note, I bought a new Thickstun from the guy on ebay. The dude selling them is damn cool and his parts are like artwork.

Shock relocation alone helps eliminate the floating feeling.

You can relocate the lower spring plate to the underside of the control arm to drop it some. Also a good time to make a new upper shock mount while you're in there.

Jump it at the starter itself, not the battery. Starter can handle 12 volt no problem.

Turlock swap meet is Jan 25th and 26th. If you haven't gone before, you should go. It's massive and you never know what you will find. Even if you don't find anything you need there, you may make a contact that has info or parts.

Try vintage power wagons. They might not have a single kit but they have everything you'll need for a rebuild. Also, ask your machinist or local Napa. Sometimes they can put together all of the pieces as a kit.

Kanter.

If it were me, I'd paint/powdercoat the stock wheels and run a small original cap. Maybe even a spider cap. As far as color, I like contrasting wheels, either a darker red or even cream. Maybe drop the front an inch or two. I'm more of a custom/hot rod guy though.

How about a picture of your car?

There are a lot of aftermarket universal drag links available. If you're not worried about keeping your car stock, some are as cheap as 60 bucks. Moog sells a lot of different length links. 300 bucks for a single suspension part is pretty steep.

Yep, my local Napa has been great for parts. I use their shocks on my cars and trucks. Something about going to a store and talking with other car guys and getting the parts you need is very satisfying compared to hitting a few keys and saving a few bucks.

Too bad you aren't closer to me. I'd give you the 3 speed out of my 49. Went with a t5 and the original tranny is just taking up trunk space.

I snagged these pictures of a homemade control arm tool so I could build one myself. Pretty simple and holds the control arm at the correct spacing. I thought I got them from here but maybe not. I don't have the one I made here to take a picture but it's basically the same and works great.

Bring a volt meter and check yourself. If it's charging like it's supposed to, go for it. I drive a 60 year old truck every day. I have rebuilt the suspension, steering, brakes and engine but only as needed. These cars are so basic and easy to work on, don't sweat it. Just make sure it stops and steers like it should and do the 40 miles. That really isn't that far. I used to drive my truck 110 miles every day to work and back. Good luck and have fun.

If you and the seller are happy with the deal, go for it. It doesn't sound like you're worried about resale, just want a nice old car to drive.

Seems to be more of a tuning and maintenance issue and not weather. If the plymouth was starting hard when the weather was warmer, has to be a fuel or ignition or both. Start with the basics.

It all comes down to what you want, how much you are willing to spend and if you are happy with that particular car. I don't sell my stuff or try to profit from cars or motorcycles that I build or buy. I do try to be realistic with their value though. I know people that have bought 4 door cars and long bed trucks just to have an old ride but later they regret it. Usually turns out that isn't what they truly wanted. I am not cheap by any means but something is worth what it is worth. Of you believe it to be a good deal and are happy with the car, buy it and drive the hell out of it. Good luck and have fun.

7k is way too much for a 4 door. I know a lot of guys buy and build them but they still aren't worth that much. Doesn't mean they are any more or less of a good car, just not as valuable. As a matter of fact, I am going to look at a 50 Plymouth business coupe tomorrow. Running, driving, nice body original paint. He's asking 4k.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and should be changed regularly. It wouldn't hurt to flush the whole system with some fresh dot 3.

Stock or custom, hard to deny how nice looking of a car they are. Yours is beautiful. Wouldn't hurt my feeling to own that.

I'm a mopar guy all the way but the 49-51 ford club coupes are some of the nicest looking cars made in that era. Not to mention probably the basis of more customs than any other car, even Mercs. I still wouldn't give up my 49 plymouth for anything.