allbizz49

Just getting to the carb. Man, it's not bad at all! I build a lot of vintage bikes and the carbs are always gunked up terrible. That's what I was expecting. Another good surprise. I'm going to rebuild it but it will probably run as is.

No rebuild tag. I believe the motor was built by Rettig bros out of Modesto. They were a top notch mopar shop. They are west coast mopar racing legends. Closed now, kinda sad. They used to do my machine work when I bracket raced and for my street cars. Engine numbers are P24 star 4I5585 star.

Once on the road and driving, I'll clean it up and paint it. Won't be silver and definitely won't be red/orange.

Rear brakes are dragging a bit, used a come a long to yank her up. It's pretty light actually. My brother towed it for me. He has a 2017 ford f150 ecoboost. Towed it no problem,

Did a little interior rummaging this morning. Found this and a the original small service manual.

Fuel filter will be replaced with a metal one. I can see remnants of old fuel in this one. The motor at some point was rebuilt. It's too stock to do any mods to it. I lower every vehicle I own but this one is staying as factors as humanly possible. She just needs to be put back in service as is. Thanks for all of the positive feedback.

Thank you for all of the positive comments! It's not a business coupe, it has a back seat. I have a 49 Plymouth business coupe that is a full on 100% nut and bolt redo. I got this to be a daily hopefully while I'm doing that one. It's a Cambridge which I believe is the lowliest of models. That is most of the appeal for me. Just stripped down and basic.

Engine shots

So, i have been eyeballin' this car for a few years now. It has been sitting next to a shop in my area that I work in. I retired from doing auto body and paint after 20 or so years and took a job for the county doing road maintenance in 2017. I'm not sure if it's a good or bad thing because there are so many old cars and trucks sitting everywhere. I want to buy them all. This particular Plymouth just spoke to me, something about it. I left a note on the gate one day and sure enough, the owner called and said, 2,500 and it's yours. One of the nicest friendliest people I've ever met. I couldn't pass it up. It has not a lick of rust anywhere. Floors, trunk, rockers, all solid. The underside is so clean and solid, looks to not have been driven much. He said the motor and tranny had been rebuilt at some point. He did take the tank out and have it boiled and lined. I have a Mike's carb kit on the bench already and I will try and start it tomorrow. I never name my cars but this thing is so basic and stripped of trim I'm calling it Plain Jane. Sorry for the long post but I'm pumped to get her on the road. I will update it as I go.

10k plus a year with my daily f100 on coker bias whitewalls. Not sure why guys act like you can't drive every day on bias tires. I was commuting 110 miles round trip a few years back. Every day, no problems ever. Half highway half freeway. Are there better tires? Of course but there's better cars than these old heaps too. Why not just drive new stuff? My trucks steers, stops and rolls just fine. Still has manually adjusted brakes. I mean, these were the new cars at one time and people drove them every day. Buy the tires you want and drive it for its intended use. I stay in the slow lane, 65-70 and cruise, enjoying my old stuff while laughing at priuses....

Throw a Cherokee 8 1/4" in there and buy all the brakes you'll need forever with ease. Especially if you are going to drive it a lot. It's either that or buy expensive parts. I'm all for retrofitting and customizing but making those ford drums work doesn't sound worth doing. Just swap the rear, pretty easy and they can be had cheap.

How long are you letting it sit in between driving? Easiest solution would be to fire it up every few days or once a week if possible.

G78 15 coker bias is what I run. I get about 30-35k miles out of them. Never any issues in over 15 years of running them on my daily. If you don't mind pinner whites (1"), Cooper makes a good affordable radial called trendsetter se.

Best undercoating I've used is Dynatron from a gun. The texture is controllable and dries fully. Also, if you want something good for fenderwells or painted areas, try 3m rocker schutz. Also from a gun. The guns you use screw onto the cans so it's pretty simple to use and easy to clean up.

What's wrong with bumper jacks that you won't use them?

If you are trying to remove old, hard stuck on undercoating, take a torch, like a small propane one, and heat up a scraper or putty knife. Scrapes it right of. It's messy and nasty but this is the best method I have found doing 100% nut and bolt restos.

If you're not doing any major work, don't worry about it. These things flex and twist around, being bolted to the chassis with new mounts is where it will live. Any serious panel replacement or bodywork priming, blocking needs to be done on the chassis. Sounds like you'll just be doing some cleaning and detailing. My reference to being titties just means it needs to be 100% before removal if you're doing bodywork. Lots of ways to skin a cat, just do what works for your needs and that is safe.

I've painted a lot of cars off of the frame. Mostly on cart/dollies, sometimes on a rotisserie. All body work, panel replacement and prep is done on the frame with NEW mounts. The body isn't removed until final final is done. If you're not doing any body or paint work, make a simple table and pull that sucker. If you are doing body work, make sure it's 100% titties before you do. It's not as big as a deal as it seems. Your chassis will be that much nicer. Just my 2 cents but I have done this more than a few times. Good luck.

Did you pop the hood and take look while it was running? That bowl gasket looks wet, maybe you can catch where it's weeping from. Check those screws to see if they are loose. I'm sure a rebuild wouldn't hurt but might not be necessary if it's running good.

Don't give up on the search for headers knuckleharley. I bought these, pretty much new, for 150 bucks. Deals are out there.

Depends on what you mean by working on the chassis. If you're stripping and painting it, then yeah, remove it.

I'd say if you only drive it a handful of times. What's a few extra seconds of cranking? As long as your battery and starter are up to snuff, might not be worth the effort and money, although not a big deal, to install an electric pump. You could also pop the hood and shoot a little gas in the carb so it starts right away. If you are going to do an electric pump, put it close to the tank and feed the stock pump with it. Tie into your ignition for power. Pretty easy install. Good luck.

225/70/15 should be close. Does your car have 7.10x15 bias originally?

Not sure about the brakes but the shock relocation is nice. Similar to what I am doing.

Any motor can be made to swap into any car. All depends on your fab skills and how bad you want to do the swap.