allbizz49

Major discovery today. Didn't make it to the dmv so I decided to finally get on the interior and clean it up and install the new seat cover. As I was removing the old cover on the rear seat, I noticed the original material was a different color and material. As I got more into it, the seat bottom just slid forward. As I pulled it out, the back portion just pulled away. Someone put that rear seat in, there are no provisions for bolting a rear seat down. Jane is a business coupe! I never really messed with the interior, been focusing on mechanicals mostly. It has the original divider and covers where the rear wheelwells go into the rear compartment. I also found a neat old garbage bag that will make a cool wall hanger.

New Coopers this morning and I installed saddle blanket seat covers for now. Trying to make it to the DMV today to finish my transfer and registration. They need to do a vin verification. Hopefully I'll be taking my girlfriend for a half and half at Fosters Freeze tonight with my new girlfriend Jane?

Congratulations for the wedding, living in a free state and for having a sweet old Plymouth!

If you're not worried about originality, Rebel wire.

If I can find any parts I need made here. I buy them. I'll pay more to help keep my neighbors working. Any time I've settled for foriegn parts on my old American iron, I was highly disappointed and chucked them. Driving and maintaining old stuff isn't cheap anyways, what's a few more bucks

Just chop the top if it's too tall, haha. Plymouths make great customs.

I clean everything with acetone and use edelbrock gasgacinch. No leaks ever.

Fuel filter? A multitude of things can cause your condition. Fuel pumps typically work or don't work. If it was bad, you wouldn't be getting fuel at all.

The wiring on my 53 is still original. The choke wire runs from the starter to the choke across the top of the engine. The wire itself is cloth covered and it has a protective cloth covering over it that you can see is fraying. I have to figure that is for extra protection against the engine heat. Hope that helps.

Rattle can that sucker and drive it! If you're going to have it painted down the road, just do it. Won't hurt anything and you'll be able to enjoy it. Just make sure whoever paints it strips it. I would definitely hit any filler and bare metal with primer first. Let it sit a day then sand it with 320-400. If you don't, you will see swelling in the paint. Also, I wish I could buy materials to paint a car for 800 bucks, haha. Last one I did had a 3,000 dollar material bill and it was black. Good luck and remember to have fun with whatever you are doing or it's not worth it.

Great advice on the syringes. I use them on a regular basis on my cars and motorcycles. Also, if you live in California like I do, you can just walk around for 5 minutes and find a handful for free!!!!

Good deal you got the leak stopped. I've only had banjo fittings on my motorcycles. I think I would make a new hard line that threaded directly into the wheel cylinder. Wonder why they used a banjo.

I'm with Sniper, check the float. If you were having percolation issues, I would think it would have started hard after fueling up. The fact it fired up and went down the road makes me think your float was hanging up for some reason.

00 steel wool will clean water spots no problem. That's what I use followed up with Amsoil foam glass cleaner. Windex or whatever glass cleaner you have will work just fine.

I personally can't stand how they look on old cars, especially muscle cars. Just looks like a cheesy attempt to over modernize an old car. If you don't drive at night, what's the benefit? Just my opinion of course.

That's awesome! Now you need to find something to put it in.

Etch primer or acid etch isn't necessary with a good epoxy. I have never used them on steel, only aluminum.

Sealers are meant to be topcoated within a time window. It's fine to let them sit over a period of time but like anything that sits, you will have to sand it and recoat. I've switched solely to kouse of kolor kd series of hybrid epoxy primers. It can be mixed as a regular build or high build primer and as a sealer to be topcoated. Having one product for everything is helpful. It is great over bare metal and filler. I have even used it on plastic and it bites like crazy. Also, it blocks like butter and is fairly inexpensive. It comes in a multitude of colors and they can be mixed together.

The Shining in Riverbank, CA. Small suburb of Modesto. He does exceptional work.

Epoxies are best if you are planning on letting it sit. Depending on where you live, you can get good epoxy like ppg dp series. We can get it in California but it is reformulated. Primer isn't meant to be in the elements, it will absorb moisture.

If you find a plate, make sure it matches your width of leaf spring. Personally, I wouldn't mess with a plate. Easy enough to weld some on the axle housing. 20 bucks and a little bit of welding, done deal.

Cut the mounts off of the original perches and weld them onto the new ones. Also, lots of universal shock mounts out there. Summit, Jegs, all sell them. Can be welded to the housing.

How much did you lose? First thing I would do is check the oil level. Let's hope you didn't dump all of it on the ground and seize the motor.

I paint professionally and my advice is to strip it with 80 DA and start over. Also, bondo is a 4 letter word, we prefer filler, haha. Lots of talc in it, sucks water like a sponge. Almost guaranteed to have rust under it. There is never a good time to rush when building a car but body and paint will cost you the most if you do. Redo a panel at a time and when the bodywork is done on each part, prime it and move onto the next. New hybrid epoxies are great and pretty inexpensive.

Looks easily repairable to me. Do as suggested earlier and sand it on flat glass or steel. I've done this with good results. I usually start out a little coarser, 220-240. Work your way to 400. Good luck.