Jump to content

allbizz49

Members
  • Posts

    468
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by allbizz49

  1. I've used their 12v kits, as easy as any other I've used. My biggest complaint about any of the kits is how they mark each wire every 6 inches where it goes. Sacramento vintage ford sells nice cloth loom in various sizes. Simple fix for me to cover the writing and it really makes for a nice neat job. I also solder and heat shrink everything. Makes it less overwhelming to split all of the circuits into sections and tackle each one instead of having a mess of wires everywhere too. Good luck.
  2. 2500! Seller is smoking crack. It's a good 500 dollar parts car at best. Good luck with your search., the right one will pop up. They always do.
  3. What's wrong with that? I do them all except for cushmans. I try to build 1 nice bike every year. Occasionally an old boat. I do full on nut and bolt stuff though, not oakie rattle can restos. Good to take a break from cars every now and then. I even do vintage bicycles to fill in the gaps of time and space.
  4. PRC.....
  5. I think they all have a belt moulding/trim. I've never seen one without it. The difference in the fender trim is deluxe or super deluxe. Mine is a bare bones deluxe, has trim only on the front fenders.
  6. 54. I'd hold off for a 2 door unless you are getting it dirt cheap. I paid 2k for a 53 2 door with a 273 and 904 last year. Another few bucks and a little time had it on the road. Still under 4k in a running driving 2 door.
  7. If you are up for rebuilding yours, I have kits for all wheel cylinders and the master I will send you for the cost of shipping. I swapped my rear end to a 8 1/4 and went with discs in the front.
  8. Nothing wrong with 6 or 12 volt. Do what you feel works for you and your car. If you want a nice stereo, just go 12 and be done. I'm going 12v but I'm running a Langdon hei and going to add a/c for my girlfriend. Otherwise, I would have stuck with 6.
  9. Pretty sure you use baking soda as a media for dustless blasting. Also, rust inhibitors are added to the water. It dies work but have fun getting the media out of the jambs and crevices. I do cars full on rotisserie and getting all if the media out is a pain fully disassembled.
  10. A lot depends in where the exhaust dumps.
  11. For those of you that have to store their cars for winter, why don't you just fire it up once every week or two? That way there is no worry or issues come spring.
  12. He's getting it for free
  13. I would ssy that's about a 3,500 dollar overpriced P-17. Also, unless someone here actually knows your mechanic and his abilities, we can't say 100% if he can wotk on it for you.
  14. Cherokee 3.55. Easy swap, I wouldn't be too hung up on rear discs. Rear drum front disc would be more than enough for a daily.
  15. 68 340 4 speed gts I helped my buddy do a few years ago for some motivation!
  16. V8, factory air GT, snatch it up. Definitely a good car.
  17. Chrome is cherry. Paint is nice but it is driver quality. I saw some imperfections but I do paint and body for a living. Notice a little more than most. That is my rusty truck sitting next to it, haha. No time to paint my driver. Either was, bitchin' car!!
  18. I saw this Desoto on my way to Lowes to pick up some baseboards. The owner was nowhere to be found but it is a nice car, looked as it was a daily driver maybe. Nice paint with some good stripe work. Interior is really nice. Someone from here?
  19. http://rustyhope.com/site/
  20. I drive a 59 F100 every day. Manual drum brakes, single master. 10,000+ miles a year. I rebuilt the 223 60,000 miles ago. 3 speed on the column 3.70 factory 9" rear. I drive it everywhere, haul with it and do long roadtrips. When my 49 Plymouth coupe is done, I will drive that every day. Relieve the truck some. It's getting a 5 speed and a 3.55 8 1/4 but still has the original rebuilt 218 with a Langdons hei. I'd start with a rear end swap and see how it does. I imagine you have artillary wheels so keeping the factory bolt pattern is a must. Go for it, nothing like driving only old stuff. Very few of us left that do.
  21. If you are confident in your fab/welding skills, anything is possible. Doing a front clip isn't a small job, lots to consider. If It were me, I'd pull the front sheermetal to give myself room then mock the 440 up with the stock frame. That will tell you how much work you need to do. One good thing is the distributor location on the 440. Gives you more room at the firewall.
  22. I'm 46, started building cars at 15. Been an auto painter/body man professionally since I was 22. I still feel like I'm 25, you must be doing something wrong.
  23. Drive it out with a hammer and don't worry about reusing it. Relocate the upper shock mount to the frame where it belongs.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use