allbizz49

Sender measures ohms, not volts. The light in your gauge is 6 volt though.

What is it doing, or not doing? Which carb is on there?

By not turning over, do you mean not firing or actually not spinning? If it spins, pull the number 1 plug and crank it over with your thumb over the spark plug hole. When it blows your finger off, you're there or at least close. Pull the distributor cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. Should be around 7 o'clock if tbe oil pump was indexed correctly. That will be nimber one. Be aware that it can be 180 off. Should start up quick if it's right, if not you're probably 180 out.

Thanks! I used Meguiars 105 ultra cut with a Griots orbital and cutting pad follwed by Meguiars 205 ultra polish and Griots polishing pad. My go to is 3m compounds and polishes followed by Meguiars carnuba wax and race glaze polish but I got the Meguiars as samples so I gave them a try. Pretty good stuff. Hope you get your car on the road soon. Looks really good.

Good job,looks nice. I machine compound and polish cars on the regular. Never had any issues but i am an auto painter and it's part of the trade. Did mine with an orbital, not rotary.

Ironic that a chevy guy says skip the ford but most fast chevrolets have a 9 inch in them. Personally, I'd find a mopar 8 3/4 to install. They'll handle anything you will throw at it. Many lived behind fuel burning front engine dragsters

How did it run before the plug and wire change?

Did you do each plug and wire one at a time? If not, start with what madmax said. Also, make sure the wire ends are pushed all of the way into the cap and snug on the plugs.

My 53 is a business coupe. It was my thread that the different coupes and sedans were discussed. It has no divider bar in the quarter windows. Also, no back seat or window cranks. Quarter glass is fixed. yours is a club sedan. They also made a club coupe without the glass divider bar with a back seat.

Both, my 49 and 53 are grounded to the head. So unless two different people from two different states bought the exact same head bolt with a threaded hole and installed them in the exact same location, Young Eds point is proven.

Cool car, congrats. You'll be driving it in no time.

Some of us are hotrodders. i have a bone stock 53 that I drive every day since getting it going. It's staying factory but my 49 is going custom. There are cars that are high quality and put together better than factory that start out as piles of parts. The argument that nobody will buy a modified car isn't true. Resale doesn't matter to me because i will never sale mine so I build what I like. How boring would the world be if someone way back never built an A V8 or if the original Ramchargers (who were Chrysler engineers) never stuffed a 392 into a business coupe? Chrysler was ahead of a lot of people but they weren't perfect. If you don't believe me take a look at your front shock mounts.........

Mine came out of a 90 2 wheel drive automatic. I bought perches from tractor supply. I haven't driven the car with it yet, still building it but it was an easy swap. If you weld and have basic tools, pretty straightforward. I am installing a t5 as well so it's getting a driveshsft made by a local shop.

Regular Cherokee is what I used. Original wheels bolt up, driveshaft doesn't. The original has a ball and trunnion with a 4 bolt flange. Any later rear you use will use a u joint.

Part of the rear motor mount?

No problem. Thickstun was a true hot rodder. Prewar stuff, along with Tattersfield. There's some good info out there about them and their contributions to hot rods.

Try to turn and move the bendix by hand while your starter is out. When I first bought my 53, the starter wouldn't turn. I pulled it out and tried to jump it out of the car, it barely moved. I pulled it apart and the bendix gear was packed with hard old grease where it ran on the shaft.. I cleaned it spotless then regreased it. Has worked perfectly ever since doing so. Not trying to discount Aitozone employee knowledge but most of those guys only know what the computer tells them. I bought a 6 volt battery there and the guy couldn't believe I was using it to start my car, haha. Good luck and keep chipping away, you'll get it.

Intake is a Thickstun and cast headers are Langdons Fenton repops. The intake is reproduction as well and is top notch. I'm running Thickstun air cleaners with a matching fuel block.

Finally digging into my 49. Pulled the motor to paint and detail it. Had to put the hop up parts on.

If it ran great before you washed it, it has to be something simple. Swapping plugs, checking timing is good and all but it wouldn't have ran great before washing if they weren't right. First thing I would do is turn the ignition on and check for power at the coil. If you had it sitting in storage you could have a loose or corroded connection. Water may have gotten in there and made it worse. If you don't have power there. Check and clean your electrical connections including the ones at the switch. Good luck, hope you fix it.

I've done it a few times and never had to do anything to the swaybar. At least, with factory swaybars.

Relocate the lower spring plate from above to below the control arm. Decent drop for almost free

Easy fix. Take it to a body shop and they can get it on a frame rack. I've seen worse repaired with a come a long.

I've been driving my 53 all over northern California. City,freeways, 110 degrees no problem. It is bone stock and no third brake light. I ride motorcycles a lot too and I figure it to be about the same. Just drive it and pay attention because nobody else is. If you are planning on going 80, zipping in and out of traffic and doing panic stops all day, just stick with a modern car. If you're looking to have a nice reliable cruiser, overdrive tranny, front discs and a rear end swap should get you comfortable on the highway. I'm not sure what is available for your motor but dual carbs and dual exhaust couldn't hurt in the power department. Good luck and how about a picture of your car?

My average material cost to paint a car inside and out is 3k. That's including consumables. That's for base clear. Kandys and pearls easily double that.