dpollo

There are two different sizes depending on the design of the piston. New replacement cylinders come with new "links".

The disc has facings on each side. It sounds like yours is stuck to either the pressure plate or the fluid drive's drive plate. Since you have the cover off, you could loosen off the six bolts which hold the pressure plate then insert a tool like a putty knife between the surfaces, but not into the space on the disc itself. When I have had a stuck disc, driving the car with the pedal depressed has always resulted in the disc becoming unstuck. Not something you would want to do in traffic.

Stellite seats in my Satellite !

knobs from 53 and 54 are the same shape but are chrome,

My 50 Plymouth has adequate power for British Columbia's mountains and it has climbed the grade to Lake Tahoe without overheating. Freeway running is enhanced by an R10 Overdrive which drops engine speed by 30%. Unleaded fuel causes no problems as these engines have satellite valve seats. Ethanol fuels may cause problems with the fuel pump but an updated pump is available. By today's standards, the car may be underpowered, but I have never found a situation where legal speeds could not be maintained.

Been there, done that, not my favourite job. Did you notice he omitted the little spacer washers which go on before the ball and needles ? perhaps the new balls are a little different. What I have found is that it is often the bell which has worn out because all the other parts are very hard. The lace up boot which Don has shown, while not ideal, will serve the purpose well if it does not come flying off.

How true. Bogart had a 38 which could disguise itself as a 37. In another Bogart film, I think it was The Big Sleep, Hapless Harry Smith had a 35 PJ coupe which out survived him. If you freeze frame a the shot of the registration paper, it actually has the correct vehicle description ! Now that is attention to detail !

The simplest option would be to get a passenger car bell housing from 35 to 39 and the transmission that goes with it. This setup can be easily recognized by the shift tower which overhangs the front of the transmission onto the bell housing which has provision for it. These transmissions are very compact, are synchronized in 2 and 3 and are strong and quiet. Some changes took place. In 35 the brake handle mounts to the side of the trans. 36 and 37 are alike and 38, the brake operated by cable. The 39 has more modern synchronizers. An overdrive was available , usually on the Chrysler . The rear mounts changed in mid 38. from 2 saddles to 2 doughnuts.

Yes it will. so will a lot of other parts.

The 218 .... 3 3/8 by 4 1/16 .....were the mainstay of Plymouth and small Dodge from 1939 to 1953 in Canada. 25 inch engines included a 201 ! 218 228 236 241 251 and 265. Edmonds made a twin carb manifold for the 25 inch engine.

I do not remember.

I was able to use 15 by 7 police car wheels . also early Dodge Dakota rims will fit a 48 Plymouth ok and they have a significant inboard offset.

I had my 39 Overdrive for years and had intended to use it in a 37 Plymouth , Recently, I gave it to someone else. I have a 35 business coupe and I changed the rear drive ratio to 3.73 by using the housing out of a newer Plymouth. It rolls along just fine. I have R10s in my 50 and 51 and 52 1/2 ton.

If your car has the column shift, my first choice would be the R10 overdrive as used from 52 to 56. Some modification of the shifter low reverse selector cable will be needed and the driveshaft would need to be shortened. Chryslers in 39 used a semi electric overdrive which evolved from the overdrives used in 35, 6 7 and 8 but with an electric kick down. This unit can accommodate the floor shift. This would be my second choice. Export models of the 39 Plymouth were equipped with this OD which I believe was either R6 or R8 The final drive speed reduction in both units is approximately 30 %.

Each heater I have removed came out in pieces. Fortunately we have no need for block heaters where I am, so I replaced them with new core plugs .... P14.... I think the number is. 1 5/8. Don't use the more familiar cup type. The best way to put these in is to put the plug in the hole, put a hammer or broad drift over the plug then strike the hammer with another which tends to flatten the plug, making it expand around its circumference.

Starters and generators are pretty straightforward. Usually cleaning and new brushes will bring a generator back to life. Same with the starter, but brushes are usually OK. Look for wear in the bushings. Best, if you are new to the game is to find a GOOD auto electric shop. It is strange that both would stop working at the same time. Are there any other electrical issues which may have contributed? Like a bad main connection at the starter relay ? As for the tank, there are sources for new ones if yours is beyond repair. When you remove the fuel line from your tank, there is a little olive shaped insert inside the fitting on the tank which makes the seal between the fuel line and the tank's dip tube. Don't lose it !

Sorry if I got crossways, Josh , not all forum members are old and grumpy like me. I did take the time to look in the parts book for 50 but it seems that the Special Deluxe wood body had a catalog all on its own. These bodies were built by outside manufacturers so it is possible that the door checks were the same as other wood bodied units. ( like Ford)

As I recall, some of the nuts are lightly pressed on. Others come off more easily so the fiber washer andyd mentioned is more easily replaced.

My Pleasure. over 50 years ago I had a gray 50 Dodge ( D36). they were still quite a common sight. I tried to unlock someone else's twin to mine. It was nearly dark and some beer was involved. But here is a "true" story. A fellow approached his pale blue 52 Chev . The muffler was hanging down so he got down and wiggled it. The whole works fell off at the manifold and in disgust he pulled the pieces off and threw the whole rusty mess into a ditch. He then got in and put the key in the ignition. Some of you will remember that Chevrolets used a novel sort of switch that had to be turned to lock and the key removed. Otherwise, if left unlocked, you did not need the key at all. This one was locked and as he tried to get it unlocked he realized that he was not in his own car ! He got out promptly, located his own car nearby , got in and drove away. Imagine the surprise the owner of the first car got when he climbed in, turned the key, pressed the button and the unmuffled engine started with a roar......... Given the nature of GM locks of that era , the guy was lucky his key did not fit the first car.

Maybe ( in a perfect world ) there are a dozen New Yorkers in the parking garage and you just got into the wrong one !

Take a clip lead and go directly from the battery's negative terminal to the ignition coil's power terminal... not the points side. You may have to operate the starter this way too if the button won't work. It also may be possible to access the back of the switch. If it is the same as the Plymouth, there is a cardboard cover to prevent hot wiring. It is easily removed, then hook a clip lead from the center terminal to one of the others which will energize the ignition. There is a small set screw which holds the entire lock assembly in place. Remove that and the switch can be pulled out and down to make things easier to get at. Without meaning to sound like a smart alec, is it possible that the trunk key , which may have the same key way was used instead of the ignition switch key ? They were different shaped heads originally ....... but sometimes one would slide into the other lock.

I agree, that is a NICE one.

It sounds like everything is fine except you might safely increase the idle speed. The fluid drive is not a torque converter so acceleration from a standstill in High gear can only be described as "majestic". As for creeping forward, for reasons of safety, the transmission should be put in neutral if the car is left idling with the clutch engaged.

I doubt that a Canuck would get so far from home but here, a 218 has a 3 3/8 bore and a 4 1/16 stroke, very different from what we called a 217. It was found in Plymouth and the smaller Dodge from 1939 to mid 1954 when the stroke was increased and it became a 228 already in use in the larger Dodge. These engines were 25 inches along the head and shared bearings and gaskets with the Chrysler. As for Coolaidcop's car he can safely assume there are no practical differences between 48 and 49 but at this late date, as already mentioned, he should tear the engine down first to determine bore size and crankshaft journal size. My grandfather bought a new P15 in Feb. 49. It was a "coach" or two door sedan. I regret that I was unable to purchase it when he died in 1962. At that time it had traveled 55000 miles and the seats had never had the covers removed. A very nice car.

I used my truck's fourth slot for the oil pressure line but if made it awkward to install the dash cluster because the oil line tubing was not flexible.