dpollo

First, I will assume this is a 48 Dodge. The fuel line runs from the tank along the outside of the driver's side frame rail, crosses over the top just ahead of the firewall and runs on the inside of the frame where it crosses under the front of the engine. It stops short of the fuel pump and on some models is terminated in a brass fitting fastened to the frame. A hose then goes to the fuel pump. The rear brake line exits the master cylinder ( or the Tee block for the brake light switch) and travels down the inside of the left frame rail where it is terminated at the hose bracket for the rear axle. (on 49 to 52, the brake light switch is just ahead of this bracket) The front brake line travels from the Tee block ( or the MC 49-52) and travels along the top of the left hand frame rail where it is terminated by a tee which serves the left front wheel. From this tee, it runs in front of the radiator support, still on top to the right front brake hose. Provision must be made to prevent abrasion along parts of the inner fender and in the immediate vicinity of the front hoses. Originally this was a spring like steel cladding on the line itself.

I think Dodgeb4ya has pinpointed your problem Remove the regulator cover and clean the 3 sets of points with a point file or very fine paper. This may solve your problem at least temporarily. Nice to see you on this forum, Go. I am the guy with the twin to your car and your car is wearing a fender spear I sent years ago. Be sure to use the regulator which has two connections on one side and the battery connection on the other. These were used 1950 to 55.

Adam says it all.

Then, although they are not identical, they are similar up to 55.

35 to mid 38 had a saddle type mount.........mid 38 on up had a doughnut shaped cushion.

If 6 volts and 6 cylinders won't take you, you don't need to go.

I suspect the fuel line is leaking air at the fitting where the line leaves the tank. This is not an inverted flare fitting like most people think. Up to 48 there was a little ferrule which made the connection airtight within the tank and leak proof to the outside. From 49 up the fitting at the end of the line is kind of bulb shaped and the "nut" is extended past its threads so it will go in far enough to contact the dip tube.

Perhaps the flexible hose ar the pump is collapsing internally. Low fuel level and a long uphill grade would bring on the problem..,,,,,, I would not envy anyone with fuel problems when climbing up out of Kamloops.

It takes over an hour of running to burn the oil out of a muffler and it runs clean for about 10 minutes until the muffler gets hot.

Is this the part that fits into the open end of the spring and retains the keepers? If so I have lots of them.

Dodgeb4ya nailed it. BTW I just got a 49 Windsor today that I am going to part out. I wonder if it has the same switch.

That car would clean up really well ! I have never seen this particular car.

It is not difficult to change the clutch . No need to pull the engine, As suggested above, check all linkage and pivot points first.

Check the battery voltage. It may have a bad cell. Then check voltage at other points down the line. It is possible the battery cable connections are not as good as they look. Both ends.

Tanks are the same as US models. Order one for a P22 and you will be OK. Station Wagon tanks are different.

3/16 but there is no harm in using 1/4

because of the switch location, any air will soon work its way back up through the master cylinder.

Too bad about the mat. It is not necessary to remove the floorboard. The whole job can be done from underneath.

Your information is essentially correct. 35 to 50 are the same and have a flat flange to accommodate the external bypass. 51 to 56 have a threaded hole for the heater connection. Some pumps , likely built after 1950 have both. Curiously, Spitfire Engines in the Chrysler have an external bypass in 51. There are differences in the impellers too. Local rebuilders here used P46 P47 and P47-3 to distinguish these pumps. (Fenco) whether this holds true elsewhere, I do not know.

Know what they are but have never made use of any. On high performance cars like ours, one does not want to add unnecessary unsprung weight.

Put a vacuum gauge on it. A low reading might indicate a plugged muffler which would cause the symptoms you describe.

As you undo all of the car's inadequacies, it will be satisfying. Frost plugs are relatively easy to install and it is a good opportunity to flush the block. If the wiring harness is a commercial made one, it can be put right in a couple of days. Gas tanks are available new. I would not want to trust an original tank at this late date. Radiators in these cars are very robust and usually repairable if you find the right shop. If the tires are that old, it suggests that the car is a low miler. That it runs at all is a plus. The clutch is easy to change . Not trying to diminish your rightful indignation but it is not a bad specimen except for the lack of running boards. Good luck with it.

Had one case where the engine started and ran briefly, then died and would not restart. After a lot of checking I found that the owner had installed a set of spark plugs intended for a Chev 6. J11 Y s they were with extended tips . The intake valves on the Plymouth had closed up the gaps. No damage but no flame either.

The most common Speedo drives are 16 tooth 17 tooth and 18 tooth. on the era of cars we have These ratios usually accommodate the axle ratio and tire size but perhaps the instrument itself is at fault. Check the odometer against a measured mile or travel at an indicated 60 or 30.... whatever is safe and with a stopwatch see how much distance the odometer indicates. Fast readings are almost the norm on certain makes of car but I have found all my Chrysler product's speedometers to be quite accurate .