dpollo

You will notice on the casting which fastens over the front main cap to give the pan gasket a surface to rest on there are two straight slots where it rests on the block. Original gasket sets had two round neoprene strips which filled these slots. The o rings, when cut will do this job but so also would some silicone. Not all engines used the felt washer that Don has put in his reply.

looks good to me.

I have had a couple of high mileage engines where the chain rattled against the cover. Usually at idle speed. I also had one which jumped a link but it did not make any noise !

The by pass filter works in conjunction with the oil pressure relief valve. You do not need a filter but the engine needs the relief valve or oil pressure will become excessive ( at least in an engine which is not worn out ) There is a very good Chrysler technical manual featuring " Tech" from about 1950 explaining the difference between engine oiling systems and is especially helpful in understanding the finer points of the Full Flow Filter system as used on the Chrysler six.

I will defer to your research but my hands on experience suggests to me that a 54 V-8 Royal shares very few body parts with a 54 Mayfair.

The easiest fix is to replace the seal on what you have.

You have already passed the biggest challenge and that is getting the drums off. The backing plate has 5 bolts which you have already removed. A good swat with a hammer should get the plate off BUT you should clean any sand and dirt from around behind so it does not fall into the bearing when the plate comes loose. There will be several shims between the axle housing and the backing plate. These are for the bearing adjustment which should allow about .005 end play on the axle. There are two seals, outer and inner. If there are no leaks at present, then the inners are good. The outers are easy to change but if they are not leaking then they should be OK. It is likely someone put gasket sealer on the shims..... there is no gasket..... and that is what is holding the backing plates on.

Exhaust manifolds changed between 48 and 49 to fit the new body. Fenton headers , at least the two sets I have , are made to fit both 48 and 49.

half inch pipe thread up until 1957 when a smaller hole was used for an electric sender.

There is a flex plate which bolts to the bell housing with 2 5/16 bolts which supports the torque shaft which fastens to the frame at its other end.

War actually started for Commonwealth nations Sept. 1939 so garyp can claim his car was a prototype to test public response. black out models in Canada did not make their appearance until 42 as in the US but there were some awfully plain janers from that era including some with right hand drive. I remember a 40 Chev which may never have been shipped. The owner had a lot of fun with it while his wife was learning to drive. this would have been around 1952.

a shop manual once told me that the resistance about what you might get from a test probe between the gauge to tank unit and ground would cause the gauge to read about 1/3.

The 50 is my all time favourite. I have not been without one for 54 years ! You never get tired of that beautiful dashboard especially if the radio is installed.

I have used a light bulb such as may be found on a front fender marker light in series with the gauge ( between the ignition switch and the gauge). It will glow dimly and reduce the voltage to about 5.5. Gauge linearity does not seem to be affected. If you need a replacement gauge for a 49 or 50, send me a PM.

The original equipment Autolites will give the best service bar none. That opinion is based on over 50 years of experience. Generally speaking : Without getting involved with numbers, the regulators used from 50 forward have the battery terminal on the opposite side from the other terminals and work well with all generators originally equipped with narrow belt pulleys. Earlier regulators have the terminals all on one side and will work with generators equipped with wide belt pulleys. Since you have a mixture of parts, it can become a try it and see proposition.

There is no chocolate better than Belgian. Thank you. As for the relay and its fuse, I think it calls for 15 amp but in my own cars I have experienced fuse failure, usually when a lot of in and out of overdrive is done such as city traffic. Increasing it to 25 or even 30 amps seems to prevent this problem without endangering the circuit.

That is the Overdrive Relay.

pull the entire dash cluster towards you and it is possible to get in there but only just. The fitting into the gauge is unusual and was meant to be a "once only" If you can tighten it with a short 3/8 wrench you will likely be ok. If that does not fix it there are several other options.

Here is another solution. Have two head studs made up with enough fine thread on top to put two nuts on each, one to hold the head, the other to hold the throttle assembly. I could easily send you two used bolts but postage for packages of that size and weight is prohibitive. For example $11 to send a single differential housing bolt to PA $19 to send an oil pump gear within Canada ! Two bolts from BC to Alaska would probably cost $ 20 which makes me very reluctant to offer.

I am certain new ones are out there somewhere but how about welding a nut to the top of a regular bolt. A bit of hand work with a file and it will do the job for you.

You are correct . Remember the guy who wanted to know about a missing door check. His was a woodie but that did not become apparent until he got a bit short with me when I suggested he look in the bottom of the door. I wonder if he ever found an answer.

From the engine rear cross member to the front of the car the dimensions are the same as other body styles.

Dodge manufactured in the USA generally used drums with the flat flange and studs. The wheels also had a different offset. The same car manufactured in Canada used bolts like the Plymouth Desoto and Chrysler.

Any Chrysler parts agency should stock this bushing. It fits a 360 among other engines.

Mark may be correct but it also could be an oil gallery plug found along the lower left side of the engine.