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Found 3 results

  1. The seat of the heater control valve has some pitting and corrosion. I don't have a good seal because I can blow through the valve even when fully closed. Is there a way to refurbish the valve seat to prevent it from bypassing? On the other hand, the silvery colored tubular valve stem has two 1/4 inch slits cut into it at the seating surface which appear to allow a small amount of coolant to bypass through the valve even when closed. Why the engineers wanted to allow a small leak past the seat is a mystery to me. But the main issue is the valve seat.
  2. Just found this excellent thread. Water Pumps. I have a 1950 (P20) 218 engine that came from a local hotrod shop- a young guy in Kerman CA who collect and restores 1950 Plymouth Suburbans. He sold me this motor with a Wilcap adapter that will allow it to bolt up to a GM automatic tranny (I'm using a TH 200 4R) He said it was running and driving great when he had it, but the 218 didn't have enough off-the-line power for him. It has the '53 and later internal bypass thermostat, and straight neck and it looks just like JB Neal's pictures , including a newer NAPA water pump. Am I understanding correctly that even though the new NAPA water pump will work with both pre and post '52 block designs, using the internal type on the older external blocks will lead to warmup and/or operational problems?
  3. Well, we have had six solid months of winter this year and I finally got my 1947 Crysler New Yorker out on the Road. Drove it to the office three times this week and it was running great. I went down to the parkade to go home and I put the key into the ignition but it would not rotate - it seems stuck fast and will not turn though the key can move in and out of the keyhole. Before I call the locksmith - can anyone please offer me some advice? In order to get it out of our buildings parkade and back home is there a safe way to Hotwire or bypass the ignition switch until I can get the keyhole replaced or repaired?
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