dpollo

It takes a lot of talent to drive the straight cut transmissions. If you need a transmission I would look for one from a 53 or newer light truck which is synchronized in the top 3 speeds. Big improvement !

with modern lubricants I do not think there will be any problem. Here is a trick which will save you a lot of headache. Cut a piece of round shafting....... or a surplus countershaft... to the same length as your cluster plus the spacer washers at each end. Then you insert this piece and the needles and washers will stay in place as you guide it into the case. Inserting the countershaft will then push the dummy piece out. This dummy shaft must be slightly smaller in diameter so it will slide through the front hole in the case which is a tight fit. Shafts are inserted and removed through the rear facing holes. A wooden dowel would work as well or better.

You seem to be off to a good start. Once that block is boiled out and clean you will feel much better.

Population was listed as zero at one time. Takes three days for your dog to run away too.

You may be able to clean it up and reassemble it with a minimum of parts. Remove a top ring and check it in the bore for wear. Since the engine has run, you can expect a gap larger than.015 but it will not be huge if the engine is not badly worn. The valves that are stuck should be checked to see that they have not been bent in the removal process. Good bearing shells may be reused if there is no dirt embedded and the clearance is within specs between .0015 and .002. Keep them in order just like the pistons and valves.

I have a long time friend in Bucyrus. He is a dedicated fan of Chrysler's products.

..... and what can we do to slide you into this sweet little unit today ? also just kidding

This particular model had a 25 inch 3 3/8 bore 218 and any oil filter would be the optional (on this model) Bypass type. The car is rare in that less than 500 D39 Business Coupes were made and many were part of fleets like the BC Public Health Nurses and BC Elactric. A few got burned up on our local circle track where they did well because of their light weight and the ease with which a 251 could be built up inside the stock block.

you would find a Stromberg on a Dodge but the Rochester os probably off a Chev. Plymouths usually had Carter B&Bs

well.... Don. in that pile I see the very hard to find High Beam indicator bulb case a front mount U bolt, an ignition ballast resistor, and instrument voltage reg. your long lost allen wrench a nice brass hose barb and any number of treasures. Nice. want some more ? signed Envious.

I'd want to have a closer look at that piston. They often have a lathe center dimple ....... but tapped ?

Does the spacer tube in your original gear press out ? Most of them just slide out.

let me try 5/16 NC usually short studs with 5/16 NF thread on the outer end for a nut. for the ignition coil bracket (same as your pan rail bolts will work too) 3/8 NC for the filter 3/8 NF for the top special head bolt of course these are SAE sizes NC and NF stands for National Coarse & National Fine Threads into castings are generally coarse

sounds like you have found a solution. My 51 and 2 are convertibles but my 50 will be very much like yours. Riveting is a skill in itself and sometimes requires special tools to get good results.

Those little pieces go between the " oil pan front end oil seal plate " which is an arched casting which goes over the front main bearing and makes a surface to seal the pan and the plate behind the timing gears. It is not something you would want to remove as without further teardown, it would be impossible to replace its gasket which is between the block and the plate ( which forms the front mount). The little pieces go under the arched casting between it and the block so they are not needed for a simple pan gasket replacement.

I would not change that rear seal if everything is as good as it looks in the picture. Have a real good look at the pan gasket and the pan flange where bolt holes may be distorted due to over tightening. A little hammer and dolly work will fix this.

The 50 Plymouth is a good choice if you are new to this era of Chrysler's products. As I mentioned before I have not been without one for over 50 years. (As a second choice I also have a 51 convertible.) What I have often said of my 50 Special Deluxe 4 door :" It is cheap to run, economical to repair, keeps up with traffic and can seat six adults.... and you never get tired of that beautiful dashboard.

I have used what I believed to be Ford trim rings with good results...... not on a 47 Dodge, but other Chrysler products with 16 inch rims.

If you send me a PM I can put you in touch with the owner of a similar car who did go to look at this one.

This car has been for sale in Victoria for quite awhile. It may still be around when you cannot resist any more.

very impressive.... the whole job. you are bound to be very proud of the final product.

I can remove an oil pump gear and send it to you . so far as I know the oil pumps will all interchange, so the gears must be the same. Why not just replace the whole pump as suggested above. If you want just the gear, send me a personal message through the forum.

I saw an all metal one made using a coffee tin for the round part. Given the speed of the mail I can understand your reluctance to order from overseas. Yet it might arrive by next winter.

Paul Curtis pwjitaylor@msn.com reproduces this ductwork, ready to install for $209 plus $17 shipping. I have used the ones he made for both 50 and 51. Perfect fit and appearance. He advertises in the Plymouth Bulletin. I was inclined toward making these items myself but for the price they are excellent value.

A fuel tank cap will fit. I used one on my 37 Plymouth until the correct cap came along. The jaws of the Plymouth fuel cap are not as wide. I think I used a Ford item.