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BillyBoySmith

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  • Posts

    31
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    England
  • Interests
    American automobiles, Music.
  • My Project Cars
    Current - '49 Dodge Wayfarer business coupe - Roadworthy, ongoing project.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    64 yrs old.
  • Occupation
    Retired Musician

Converted

  • Location
    africa
  • Interests
    cars

Recent Profile Visitors

883 profile views
  1. I am gonna replace the shocks on my '49 Wayfarer coupe, sellers on ebay offer what look to be the same shocks, but for different year models. Some say 'fits '38 -'50 models, others say '46 -'50, or even '39 - '48 models. Question is - are the same shocks used on all Dodge/Plymouth cars from 1939 thru to 1950 ?? confusing because prices vary quite a bit. Best price + shipping are the '39 - '48 shocks, but can't justify spending that amount plus shipping and import taxes if they won't fit. Any advice welcome, Kind regards, B.B. (UK).
  2. That's what I attempted to do andyd, finally worked out how to do it. Thanks for your advice.
  3. On close inspection, it seems that the internally threaded shank on the hold-down nut is slightly staked (peened over ?) in 3 places to hold the spring loaded filter retainer in place. looks like it can be separated. If I file down the raised stakes, separate, replace the main copper washer, re-assemble, and re-stake. Motto - Where there's a Bill, there has to be a way. Lol. Thanks for replies guys.
  4. Hi, after fully rebuilding the engine for my '49 Wayfarer business coupe, I was very happy to see that it doesn't have any leaks - EXCEPT FOR - the remote oil filter. - - the pipe seals and the main cap seal are good, but it leaks around the large nut that tightens the cap down. can anyone tell me how to separate the nut from the cap so that I can renew or make a seal for it ?? regards, BB.
  5. Branded, Many thanks. That's how i thought it should be.
  6. Hi guys. advice required. I'm about ready to pull the motor out of my '49 Dodge wayfarer. The transmission is 3 speed manual with fluid drive. I know I have to separate the engine and trans, before I lift the motor out, but I need to know whether I have to remove the transmission, and leave the fluid coupling/clutch and bell housing on the motor, and then remove that unit after the motor is out ??. If I tried to remove the trans WITH the bell housing/clutch etc, the motor would become unstable because the bell housing casting sits on the rear mounts. Looks like common sense, but any advice welcome. Also, when lifting the motor out, will it be necessary to remove the radiator yoke (mounting panel ?), or, should it clear ? (using an engine hoist, not overhead lifting block and tackle) Regards, BB.
  7. Many thanks, so at least it's not an 'oddball' or has a digit missing. All looks good.
  8. Hi again Dodge Gurus/Boffins, I am rebuilding an engine that I believe to have come out of a 1950 Dodge 6 Custom. Engine number reads D34-67930 (although the 6 and the 9 both have straight backs and I have seen stampings on other blocks with a straight backed 5 that looks like a 6 with a hat on) -- Anyhow what I need to know - Is it common or normal to have a five digit engine number ?? most others I have seen have six (after the model Prefix). Any help/advice/comments more than welcome. Thanks again in advance, B.B.
  9. Hi, this is exactly how they came out of the block. What you see are not valve springs (valve springs can just be seen at bottom of pic, just out of shot). These springs and seals (?) were installed just below the valve head as you see them. I've never seen anything like it before. One guy I spoke to thinks they might be installed to rotate the valves whilst engine is in operation.
  10. A bit late I know, but here is a pic of the valves with springs (and seals ?) added under the head. Only the Inlet valves had these but some had deteriorated..
  11. Hi Techies, - Is it common for the inlet valves to have a spring and seal under the valve head ? and if so what is the reasoning for it ? - It's a D34 flathead I have stripped with intention of completely rebuilding it. Thanks in advance, B.B.
  12. Dodgeb4ya and Matt Wilson, thanks for your help guys. I contacted Dodge Power Wagons and a cam sprocket hub is on its way to me. Glad to have found a supplier 'cos the camshaft is definitely useable. Regards, B.B.
  13. Thanks guys, I think best bet is to replace camshaft. I believe that some of the rebuild kits available include a camshaft, Hmmmm, I wonder if there's a 'hotter' cam available ????
  14. Thanks Don, I guess I'll have to replace the whole camshaft then, Great pic, answered my question. Regards, Billy.
  15. Hi techy guys, I (stupidly) managed to break a lug off the camshaft sprocket mount. (Dodge D34 Engine) - Is this part of the camshaft, or a seperate part driven by the camshaft ?? Ironically, the cam lobes seem OK and I was hoping to re-use it. (W/shop manual is useless). Any camshaft pictures would be more than welcome, - can't find any on the internet. Regards, BB.
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