Dartgame

If you use the bolt on seal, be sure to remove the other seal. I'd guess if you leave it in place the bolt on seal will fail. They need some amount of lube to allow them to slip.

I'd guess sound deadening in your cab and the exit point for the tail pipe are the biggest issues. You might have some rubber hangers on the exh system that are binding or too hard to flex ?

I used AAJ's stuff, he has a kit for rear discs using the stock axle and a tandem underfloor master cyl bracket. All worked well and uses over the counter parts and u can use the oem wheels . Only issue I had was the master cylinder. I ended up using a master power remote reservoir unit. Not enough room for a stock style with built in reservoir. Roger is a heck of a nice guy - very helpful and responsive.

Stoddard solvent (paint thinner) or mineral spirit is what Rustoleum contains. It's a slow evaporating solvent as pointed out above. You might try lacquer thinner or xylene as mentioned above. Acetone's flash point is what caused the orange peel. It evaporates incredibly fast.

What a shame - I walked thru that place about 3 years ago. There were some gems and some junks there, but all good projects or drivers, etc. A huge mix of cars mainly from the 50's to 80's. What a mess and loss...

No reason you cant use all mopar stuff on your build as pointed out by Tim - 8 3/4 axle from a 66-70 B body should be a close fit, others have used axles from Jeeps and dakota's which in that case are 8 1/4 "c" lock rear axles. All can take a 318 w no issue. 9 inch ford will work - main thing is flange to flange width - you want to be close - narrower is better but not more than 1-2 inches total from what I can tell. Search the site for more detail on what others have done successfully.

Take a look at the autoparts store for this newer line material in nickel copper. Bends easy and flares beautifully and is DOT approved...

The fourth picture looks like a throttle cable hold down from a 60-80's mopar. The fifth picture looks like stainless surrounds for door lock tumblers. The rest I have no idea

I have a 1953 block that I received with two sets of main caps. I decided to check a few of them to see if I could determine which was the correct set. I have a dial bore gauge to check. what I found was that all the caps would interchange in their correct location i.e. Main on main position, #1 cap on #1 position etc. What this leads me to believe is that the caps were machined to a specification rather than to a specific block. A costly way on doing things, certainly not what I would have expected. Now, whether I could drop a crank into the block is another question. I don't have a good set of bearing shells to test this. I do not know the answer. What you might try is Bolting on the caps and seeing if they have overlap on the bearing shell parting lines. If they do, you have no alternative but to line bore. If they look good try installing the bearing shells drop in the crank and install a cap with a bearing inserted one at a time and see if the crank gets tight or turns smoothly. I'd then talk to your machine shop to see if they can verify whether it truly needs a line bore.

I had a similar but better ending to my registration process. My car had a Virginia title which used the engine number as the VIN. Illinois secretary of state (lets call it dmv), sent me valid plates but with held my title stating the car needed to be inspected by local police for VIN verification. I did that, and had the body number re-assigned as the VIN which is correct. Ok I get it. BUT the DMV rejected this and stated I needed to take the car for inspection to one of their offices. Fortunately there is one not far from home. The officer there got pissed when he read the note from the DMV office. He verified the info just as the police did and I finally got the clear title 6 weeks later. What a bunch of idiots. I had to waste my time to satisfy their overbearing process, which when adhered to was rejected, but finally accepted. I think all they wanted to do was find fault and charge me extra to get this situation sorted out. At least that did not happen...

Agreed, worn throttle shaft = vacuum leak = poor performance. The fix is usually to remove the butterfly & shaft, and bore the casting to match a tight fitting larger standard size OD bushing that has the correct ID for the shaft. I dont think the shafts wear as much as the casting, but that would be a guess on my part.. If you want to try fixing it yourself, I imagine you need to be darn sure you bore the casting square and straight. Probably best to have a competent machine shop do this. You could try contacting some specialty carb shops to see if they can help, Holley rebuilds any make carb. Try talking with George Asche as well. He rebuilds lots of these carbs.

Well, this is kind of a loaded topic. I used the CC850 springs with great success on my 52 ply bus coupe. Others have not had the same results on dodges and I think some plymouths. I suspect if your original springs are the same part number or description, as my original 52's were, then use the CC850's. I installed them and then later cut 2/3 of a loop off the bottom of the springs and it now sits just right in my opinion. Ride quality is very good and I personally like the progressive rate the CC850's have, less bounce and more control. Your choice ! (2/3 of a loop cut off dropped the front end 1 5/8"). For the price you cant beat the 850's with a stick (less than $50 a pair).

No you cannot use the 4 bolt vs 8 bolt flange convention - here is a link to the forging numbers that will help you. Look at pages 14 & 16 http://www.enginepartswarehouse.com/enginecatalog/CHRYSLER-DODGE.PDF

Good you are using an infrared thermometer - excellent diagnostic tool. If you continue to have problems - check the actual opening temperature of the thermostat. I have seen very few stats that open at the temp stated. I'd bet that your 180 stat is opening at 190 to 195 F. I have seen this time and again. Most stats are inaccurate, the only type Ive found reliable are Robert Shaw style stats, but I still test them anyway. How to check ? Pull the stat out; put it in a pan of water and heat it on a stove gradually while stirring, checking the temp with an accurate thermometer. I use laboratory mercury thermometers to check mine. You may be astounded at what you find. Good luck. After several irritating experiences when I was young, I now never install a stat without checking the opening temp.

Would you know if these clips will work on a 52 plymouth rocker molding?

I bought one for my 52. Two row AL radiator. Works very well, no hesitation on my part to buy another if I need one.

I read some place the 218 rods are longer than the 230s. Part of the reason is the pistons are the same for both motors....think about it. Makes sense...cranks and rods change from motor to motor. Long throw shorter rod on 230 than 218 which has longer rod and shorter throw on the crank... can you mix and match ? Maybe...balancing would be off more than standard amount.

I had a devil of a time getting the oem '52 thermostat housing to seal to the head. I lapped the housing flange flat on a true flat surface until all defects were gone, cleaned the head surface until you could eat off of it, made sure everything was bone dry, aligned the thermostat and then used gray waterpump RTV and a gasket - waited 24 hours to cure, and sealer on the bolt threads. Still leaked. I went to a 60's/70's style V8 heavy duty cast aluminum after market housing (not chromed). Used the gray water pump RTV, no gasket let it set for 24 hrs, thread sealer. Voila no leaks. Use a flex hose with 1 3/4 " x 1 1/2" x 16 inch long. Perfect fit. I hated to abandon the oem style upper hose, but things were just not working, and my time is worth more than futzing around with the old housing...probably could have made it work without the gasket and the RTV...but the new housing works fine and solved the problem.

I have read that the 218 motors have a smaller combustion chamber and will raise a 230's CR. But I don't know the details- someone else will know that, and hopefully chime in.

Not the same era - 1970 2dr sport fury w a 383 or 440....highway cruising at its best.

Do you recall the company name in from Florida ? I will need to order some soon...thanks !

How cool is that ? I am envious....!

Arrgghh- I feel for you. If it were me I'd rip it down and get the bolt remnant out and redo with new head bolts. Just curious - how much work was it too clean up the old bolts, were they rusty - or did they just need a little cleaning. reason I ask is eventually I will be pulling the head on my motor and I am looking for a bench mark...

Thanks for the thoughts. The block can wait, no rush- just being cautious, don't need to reverse the recuperation progress.

I have not gotten the block out of the shop. Screwed up my left arm (badly pulled and bruised muscles) helping a friend replumb his house. No heavy lifting for a while, and certainly a flat head block qualifies as heavy. Maybe early next month. Meanwhile I sent the 52 off to the paint shop for some surgery on a very old collision repair...curious to see how it comes out.