Dartgame

I visited George last August and spent a very enjoyable 2-3 hrs chatting with him, and going for a ride in his 230 powered 1950 plymouth. What a nice man, and he's a wealth of knowledge about flat head mopars. I traded him some parts I had for stuff I wanted and later I bought a dual outlet exhaust, throttle linkage, and reground cam from him. Should have done it when I visited but was not sure what I was doing at the time. Eventually this stuff will find its way onto a 230 for my 52 bus coupe. If you have the time to make the trip - do it, you wont regret it. Could not be a better thing to do whether you are a flatly nut or not. Glad to hear he is doing better now after being ill sometime earlier this year.

For those of you considering polyurethanes, be mindful that the minwax oil modified urethane is not light stable and will fail after long exposure to sunlight. You can use minwax helmsman which is sunlight stable or an automotive urethane clear.

Be sure to save all the hardware bag and tag it. If it took you 2 years before deciding to rip it down - it may be a long time before it goes back together. (No offiense intended). Not sure it sounds like you've not torn a motor down ? Start by taking the pistons out on the cylinders that look to be the least rusty. You may be limited by the crank and rod position as to which can come out. Take your time dont use force on anything that seems excessive, you can use wood blocks to drive the pistons out of the block with a hammer. Save all the parts. As you remove the pistons continue to attempt rotation of the crank, you might get lucky and get her to break free. Save the cam - there are no new ones out there, all are reground to my knowledge.

Looking at how close the gears are on these motors I doubt they would skip. 30 yrs ago I put a new cam, lifters and timing chain in my everyday driver '77 diplomat w a 318. The timing set was TRW double row chain and gears. Once assembled the car ran sort of okay, but ran what I would call "heavy". Turned out the timing chain timing marks were one tooth off on the cam gear. AAAaagh. Corrected that and it ran very well. From then on I either check these marks against a known good piece, or centerline the cam to verify correct timing. Lesson learned the hard way.

Cool deal. I will be doing this myself soon. Remarkably the 41 is very similar to my 52's glass channels and so forth.

If I recall correctly the MC is under the floor ? Will it clear the bottom of the floor if it had a flat mounting ?

dnd - which car did you put the Ebody axle in ? I recall E body axles are pretty wide- any issues with tire clearance ?

Depends on what you are trying to do. Propane torches can often be helpful with stuck fasteners - heat it up red hot and use penetrating oil to cool the hot part and then try removing. If you can't heat it red hot you need an oxy acetylene torch.

If you use the bolt on seal, be sure to remove the other seal. I'd guess if you leave it in place the bolt on seal will fail. They need some amount of lube to allow them to slip.

I'd guess sound deadening in your cab and the exit point for the tail pipe are the biggest issues. You might have some rubber hangers on the exh system that are binding or too hard to flex ?

I used AAJ's stuff, he has a kit for rear discs using the stock axle and a tandem underfloor master cyl bracket. All worked well and uses over the counter parts and u can use the oem wheels . Only issue I had was the master cylinder. I ended up using a master power remote reservoir unit. Not enough room for a stock style with built in reservoir. Roger is a heck of a nice guy - very helpful and responsive.

Stoddard solvent (paint thinner) or mineral spirit is what Rustoleum contains. It's a slow evaporating solvent as pointed out above. You might try lacquer thinner or xylene as mentioned above. Acetone's flash point is what caused the orange peel. It evaporates incredibly fast.

What a shame - I walked thru that place about 3 years ago. There were some gems and some junks there, but all good projects or drivers, etc. A huge mix of cars mainly from the 50's to 80's. What a mess and loss...

No reason you cant use all mopar stuff on your build as pointed out by Tim - 8 3/4 axle from a 66-70 B body should be a close fit, others have used axles from Jeeps and dakota's which in that case are 8 1/4 "c" lock rear axles. All can take a 318 w no issue. 9 inch ford will work - main thing is flange to flange width - you want to be close - narrower is better but not more than 1-2 inches total from what I can tell. Search the site for more detail on what others have done successfully.

Take a look at the autoparts store for this newer line material in nickel copper. Bends easy and flares beautifully and is DOT approved...

The fourth picture looks like a throttle cable hold down from a 60-80's mopar. The fifth picture looks like stainless surrounds for door lock tumblers. The rest I have no idea

I have a 1953 block that I received with two sets of main caps. I decided to check a few of them to see if I could determine which was the correct set. I have a dial bore gauge to check. what I found was that all the caps would interchange in their correct location i.e. Main on main position, #1 cap on #1 position etc. What this leads me to believe is that the caps were machined to a specification rather than to a specific block. A costly way on doing things, certainly not what I would have expected. Now, whether I could drop a crank into the block is another question. I don't have a good set of bearing shells to test this. I do not know the answer. What you might try is Bolting on the caps and seeing if they have overlap on the bearing shell parting lines. If they do, you have no alternative but to line bore. If they look good try installing the bearing shells drop in the crank and install a cap with a bearing inserted one at a time and see if the crank gets tight or turns smoothly. I'd then talk to your machine shop to see if they can verify whether it truly needs a line bore.

I had a similar but better ending to my registration process. My car had a Virginia title which used the engine number as the VIN. Illinois secretary of state (lets call it dmv), sent me valid plates but with held my title stating the car needed to be inspected by local police for VIN verification. I did that, and had the body number re-assigned as the VIN which is correct. Ok I get it. BUT the DMV rejected this and stated I needed to take the car for inspection to one of their offices. Fortunately there is one not far from home. The officer there got pissed when he read the note from the DMV office. He verified the info just as the police did and I finally got the clear title 6 weeks later. What a bunch of idiots. I had to waste my time to satisfy their overbearing process, which when adhered to was rejected, but finally accepted. I think all they wanted to do was find fault and charge me extra to get this situation sorted out. At least that did not happen...

Agreed, worn throttle shaft = vacuum leak = poor performance. The fix is usually to remove the butterfly & shaft, and bore the casting to match a tight fitting larger standard size OD bushing that has the correct ID for the shaft. I dont think the shafts wear as much as the casting, but that would be a guess on my part.. If you want to try fixing it yourself, I imagine you need to be darn sure you bore the casting square and straight. Probably best to have a competent machine shop do this. You could try contacting some specialty carb shops to see if they can help, Holley rebuilds any make carb. Try talking with George Asche as well. He rebuilds lots of these carbs.

Well, this is kind of a loaded topic. I used the CC850 springs with great success on my 52 ply bus coupe. Others have not had the same results on dodges and I think some plymouths. I suspect if your original springs are the same part number or description, as my original 52's were, then use the CC850's. I installed them and then later cut 2/3 of a loop off the bottom of the springs and it now sits just right in my opinion. Ride quality is very good and I personally like the progressive rate the CC850's have, less bounce and more control. Your choice ! (2/3 of a loop cut off dropped the front end 1 5/8"). For the price you cant beat the 850's with a stick (less than $50 a pair).

No you cannot use the 4 bolt vs 8 bolt flange convention - here is a link to the forging numbers that will help you. Look at pages 14 & 16 http://www.enginepartswarehouse.com/enginecatalog/CHRYSLER-DODGE.PDF

Good you are using an infrared thermometer - excellent diagnostic tool. If you continue to have problems - check the actual opening temperature of the thermostat. I have seen very few stats that open at the temp stated. I'd bet that your 180 stat is opening at 190 to 195 F. I have seen this time and again. Most stats are inaccurate, the only type Ive found reliable are Robert Shaw style stats, but I still test them anyway. How to check ? Pull the stat out; put it in a pan of water and heat it on a stove gradually while stirring, checking the temp with an accurate thermometer. I use laboratory mercury thermometers to check mine. You may be astounded at what you find. Good luck. After several irritating experiences when I was young, I now never install a stat without checking the opening temp.

Would you know if these clips will work on a 52 plymouth rocker molding?

I bought one for my 52. Two row AL radiator. Works very well, no hesitation on my part to buy another if I need one.

I read some place the 218 rods are longer than the 230s. Part of the reason is the pistons are the same for both motors....think about it. Makes sense...cranks and rods change from motor to motor. Long throw shorter rod on 230 than 218 which has longer rod and shorter throw on the crank... can you mix and match ? Maybe...balancing would be off more than standard amount.