Dartgame

Be sure that the fuel pressure is set to factory spec, maximum. If its 5 or 4.5 psi etc. You could be pushing more fuel past the needle seat, install a permanent mini fuel pressure gauge near the carb. I’d check the dist. For free movement of the mechanical advance weights, and that the vacuum advance is working and holds vacuum with NO leakage (very important). And as others have noted the plate has another set of slots to move around as well. I set mine at about this 7 degrees BTDC and it runs well.

Try reading the casting number on the middle of the passenger side of the trans, should be a 6 or 7 digit raised number in rather large font size. You may also find the production date stamped into the flat flange area of the trans right next to where it bolts to the bell housing, again on the passenger side. With these numbers we can probably ID the trans in it. If it is similar to mine then an R 10G overdrive should be a bolt in.

Set your timing to around 5 degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected and carb side of the line plugged. Reconnect vacuum advance, and adjust idle speed to around 550-600 rpm. Using a vacuum gauge hooked up to manifold vacuum, adjust the idle mixture screw for maximum vacuum, idle speed may need to be adjusted while tuning mixture screw. Do these first and then ask again about the vibration. If you are not able to set timing - there may be a problem with the vibration damper having slipped assuming it has one.

I’d get one of those infrared digital thermometers about $25 or less, (harbor frt) and check the radiator outlet and inlet hose temperatures. You should see a temperature difference of 10-20 degrees F. I had a similar but more serious temp problem with one of my darts. What I saw was 205 or more on the outlet and like 145 on the inlet. It appeared as though the water was flowing. NOT. The water pump impeller was spinning free on the shaft inside the pump, it was so smooth, made no noise, like it was riding on a polished bearing. Changed the pump - problem fixed. By the way, the faulty pump was brand new. I spent a lot of time and effort trying to fix that problem. I’ve never seen something like that before...probably a part made overseas.... Other things to consider, hoses will sometimes collapse partially restricting water flow. These old engines sometimes don’t get proper maintenance - maybe the block is full of crud and sediment. There is a plug on the drivers side of the block to drain it and could be used to flush as well...check it out.

My car had one of those stubby transmissions in it, but maybe not the same as yours because yours is probably a floor shift and mine is a column shift - Is your trans original ? I was able to put in a 1953 vintage RG-10 overdrive in place of the stubby trans, and use a shorter driveshaft.

I was pleasantly surprised at the price - to do both flywheel and pressure plate was around 150-200$. But then again, the owner turned out to be a classmate from high school- we did not know each other back then though. So maybe he gave a discount...but the stuff worked beautifully, ultra smooth engagement...

I found a local outfit that rebuilds clutches for semi trucks and will rebuild car units as well. Naylor Automotive Engineering 4645 south Knox Ave Chicago 773-582-6900. They did my Borg and Beck, resurfaced the flywheel, in an afternoon. They can reline the disc for you as well.

Ive seen folks use back up lites from old vw beetles which are rectangular, kind of look like the first picture at the top of the page. VW restoration outfits sell repops for about 20 a piece. I plan on using some bullet shaped mini tear drop lamps originally used for motorcycle turn signals. I am thinking the rounded shape is more in keeping with the age/style of the cars, and of mounting off the bottom of the bumper as shown at the first pic on this thread. GM cars of the era used tear drop lights kind of like what I am planning, their trade name was “guide” or something like that.

Hey Jack - Good idea, I forgot that the muscle car era mopars used a bimetallic limiter that drops 12 to 5 volts...there is an outfit making a solid state limiter as well. I think its called real time engineering. I bought a couple for my darts but had not installed them, the old ones are still functioning.

I used a runtz resistor for the fuel gauge to step down the 12 volt to 6. Seems to work fine. A lot of restoration and fat fender speed shops sell these resistors.

Silver might be a good choice if your reflector is darkened with age.

I’d use compressed air followed with a copious amount of spray brake cleaner followed compressed air again, and make sure the compressed air blows all the solvent out...

No it wont hurt it, you don’t need it though. ZDDP is as you may know for the extreme pressure and shear that occurs between the cam and lifters. But in this case the spring pressures are low, unlike a flat tappet cam in a late model V8, and when hot rodded what makes it worse is a high lift cam and stronger springs in a V8...

Normally folks say why they are done or leaving.

Parts stores sell flex hoses with different size ends and lengths too, assuming your inlet on the radiator is bigger than the stat housing. That’s what i needed for mine.

80/20 would be loop similar to carpet used in 60’s and 70’s cars...cut pile would be used in mid 70’s to present. Earlier cut pile was similar to carpet used in a home. Late model cars is short cut pile. Not sure what 600 series is....ask them for a sample to see it.

I will be installing the Cherokee sway bar too. I initially installed a 1970 or so B-Body (road runner) sway bar. It worked, but when I lowered the front end it started rubbing the tires,so off it went. There is a write up on the site about this. Search for Cherokee sway bar or front sway bar.

I had the same problem only it was not the wire inside the distributor- it was the condensor. A lot of parts are made overseas these days and just don’t last they way they should. I swapped mine (which was hours new when it failed) with another new one, problem solved. I later searched at swap meets and found some older NOS pieces to keep as back up. Problem with these is in a 52 distributor (and maybe other years as well), you have to disturb/readjust the point gap when removing and installing the condensor. Pain in the behind. Ultimately what I am going with is a chrysler electronic ignition distributor and GM HEI ignition and ford coil. Lot of zap for the money. If you are interested the conversion is well documented on this site. You need a slant six distributor and a flat head donor distributor to make the change over, you then have the choice of mopar ignition box or or brand x types. I chose brand x for higher energy spark.

We used to call Lucas - luckless.

Your build looks great !. I noticed early on you had modded the oil system to a full flow filter . What was the procedure you followed ? Looks like you tap and or drill as needed to plug the block and then drill and tap the inlet outlet connections. Can you comment on the sizes fittings etc ?

Have you dropped the pan and cleaned out the old sludge in the bottom of the pan ?

Learned something new today !

Holy crap is that scary. I never planned on using the oem wheels on my car, but not for this reason....

Did you install the oil pan and valve cover gaskets or did the rebuilder ? The pan cork end gaskets are supposed to be left about an 1/8 inch long on each corner. I did mine that way and zero leaks.

Not sure about the wheel tire combo. I am using dodge 1980’s cop rims 15x7 with 215 70’s they fit great and no interferences.