Dartgame

Holley makes one too, which appears more robust than the Mr gasket type, but also more expensive.

Eventually when I go to a split system, I am thinking about using one dual inlet and dual outlet muffler. Flow master and dynomax etc make stuff like this. Have not researched this entirely since I am far away from making this change, but i like the idea of running the pipes parallel to one another and out the back. I have seen parallel pipes out the back on other plymouths etc so I assume there is room to do this.

Should be interesting to hear what the glass packs do. I had always heard they are more restrictive than turbo mufflers or oversize Stock mufflers like your walkers. People like the sound of glasspacks. I prefer what actually makes more grunt and HP vs sound.

When I replaced the tie rods on my 52, I found that several were not too expensive (the inners ?) and were actually parts used on dodge pickups from the early 60's (IIRC). It seems the drivers outer is the most expensive and I got both outers for 80 or 90$ For the pair.

some engines are internally balanced meaning the crankshaft is neutrally balanced and the rods and pistons are balanced to match the crank. The flywheel in such an engine will also be neutral balanced meaning the flywheel doesn't require weights or special orientation. As far as I know the mopar flat heads are internally balanced engines so no there does not need to be a pattern for orientation of the flywheel.

When you replaced the condenser did you reset the point gap ? I found it necessary to reset the gap when replacing the condenser. If your timing is reading 12 degrees after TDC something is messed up. Normally most engines wont run worth a crap that retarded. If anything you want to be sitting around 5 degrees or so BTDC. If you cannot get enough twist out of the dizzzy, maybe someone replaced the pump and installed it with the gear in the wrong position. If you truly do have a vibration damper it is possible it has slipped as well. Before messing with that stuff wait for the new vac advance, install it, and then reset your point gap. Install the dizzy, try setting timing to something slightly before tdc like 5 to 7 degrees. Fill us in on the result.

I thought the 230s were all 8 bolt, and 218s were 4 bolt. I have a 218 w 8 bolts from a hydrive application. I found a resource for determining these by casting or forging number - follow this link: http://www.enginepartswarehouse.com/enginecatalog/CHRYSLER-DODGE.PDF See pages 14 & 16

I noted the same thing about my 52's starter. I am not an expert on these, but I have seen where these bendix units do not seem to retract while messing with them on the bench. They do work properly when installed and are used to actually start the car. I am guessing it has to do with the bendix gear assembly getting thrown back once the motor starts...

Check your email.

In the event you have not done this before? You do have to get pretty violent with races inside a hub like this. A heavy punch and hammer are needed to get things moving.

Regarding the running and remove battery cable test: I have not tried this with a 6 volt generator system. I have tried it with a 12 volt alternator system. With a negative ground you can pull the negative lead - if it continues to run then the charging system is working. I would think if you pull the positive lead the engine will die. (Could be wrong). Since this is a 6 volt positive ground. I would not pull the negative lead, but rather the positive lead ?

adjust the free play to around 1/8 to 3/16" as measured at the end of the fork. if you cannot do this within the threaded rods adjustment range, something is wrong.

take a volt ohm meter and read the voltage to the coil. if is 12 v when running you probably should install a resistor to the feed for the coil. normal running voltage should be around 8 volts for most stock style 12 volt coils.

I would think they should work as long as the head and stem diameter are the same. The length can be taken up with the tappet adjustment.

There should be zerks on all the greased joints/fittings ? Two on each of the A arms where they attach to the frame, one each on the upper and lower pivots for the uprights. Look on both sides front and rear of the upright pivot bolts assuming this is your question.

LOL ! Car sits in storage all winter until the spring when it warms up anyway.....

I decided to go a simpler route for heat/defrost. My car (52 plym) never had a heater installed. I decided to use a mopar model 53 heater. These show up on ebay fairly often. I considered using a modern retrofit unit, but liked the idea of an oem style unit instead. Plus I like to torture myself by tearing something apart and rebuilding it...LOL Kind of a funny story - In my case no one bid on the heater I bought. I paid a dollar for it plus shipping. I suspect the seller was not happy about that - it arrived packed in a big - (nearly wrecked - went through a war) kotex box, (sellers message received). Remarkably there was no damage to the unit ! Anyway - These were used on earlier cars probably 1948 and older, vs my 52. Looks like an overgrown canned ham with a heater core, & blower motor inside, and a lever to divert the air flow from the floor to the defrost vents - (KISS). The outlet on the defrost matched perfectly to the defrost vent opening under the dash, same size flex tubing. I used the control pictured above and am using one of the fan speed controls, the other is inactive. The two cable controls operate the defrost/heat lever, the temp cable operates an underhood coolant valve from a mid 80's dodge truck. I also shortened the depth of the glove box by about an inch. There was insufficient room for the heater body to fit up under the dash without that modification. Seems to work. Less stuff under the hood. Down fall to this system is lack of fresh air intake for the heater. I dont plan on driving in the dead of winter in Chicago...LOL. Be sure to use at least a 180 thermostat..

I don't think so. I would use standard 90wt gear lube. There might be a brass rubbing block in the center, but I would pay no attention to it.

Thanks - Sure thing ! When I mentioned increasing the CR with an AL head on v8's above an iron head - I was thinking about going from 9 or 10 to1 w iron up to 11 or 12 to 1 w AL. That part I understand, what ends up if I am thinking correctly is that the heat in both combustion chambers is the same....? You get more torque & Hp and certainly can run a bigger cam because of the dynamic CR. Correct me if I am wrong, if I understand this is - one of the limits to flat heads is the CR achievable through shaving a head. So if 8.5 to 1 is about the limit - then what gain Is there with AL vs Iron w same CR. I would almost think you loose some power due to the lower heat in the combustion chamber w an AL head and the same CR vs iron ? Just doing some bench racing....

I am curious to know more about the combustion chambers on these heads (edgy and edmunds) has anyone compared these to the OEM cast iron versions ? One of the reasons to go with AL heads is for compression. But you can shave a cast iron head down to get similar compression as well. All things being equal, I would prefer to stay with the cast iron head. Why ? 1) Cost. I already have a spare 218 head sitting in my shop. 2) Cooling/heat loss. There is the aspect of heat dispersion or heat loss in the combustion chamber, cast iron holds heat better than AL. Practical example - Most guys that use AL heads on v-8 hot rod motors can actually increase the static compression by 1 to 2 points and still use pump gas because of the cooling effect that AL heads exhibit. Are we giving up what is in essence heat (power) by using an AL head vs cast iron ? Am I on track with this or off the path ?

I used to use WD 40 for penetrating oil as discussed above. I started using PB blaster a few years ago and have had good luck with it. Something to know about with all of this stuff is the carrier solvent will evaporate over a long time. Not overnight but over weeks depending on temperature. Interested to hear if you can salvage that baby hemi..

when i was getting my 52 running - I was able to find repop gas tanks. I never considered trying to reuse the original one. Inside it looked like some sort experiment with it being submerged under sea water and then dried with caked petroleum varnish sludge and rust adhered to the inside of the tank. The intank filter was hardly recognizable and looked like some sort of disgusting donut. If you can salvage yours - great, otherwise see if you can get new one. You wont regret it.

Belvedere is right. Your motor should drop in with the proper engine mounts for the body you are using. I did find that my 52 bus coupe had one of those weirdo short trannies. I dropped in an overdrive and had a shorter modern spicer u joint driveshaft made for it.

I use whatever discontinued oil my son gets from the autoparts store he works at, (they sell it for next to nothing). Tip - next time you are in your favorite parts store ask them if they are discontinuing carrying any brands or weights of motor oil. You might get a bargain. As I understand it, the main reason for the use of high content ZDDP (1200 PPM) is to protect flat tappet engines from getting the cam/lifter contact surfaces worn out prematurely. The ZDDP is - as described ad nausium in this set of posts - to give a protective lubricating film for flat tappets and the cams they run upon. The EPA mandated the reduction of Zinc in oil because the zinc eventually - after 80 or 100 Kmiles can foul up a catalytic converter. With the change to rollercams the need for ZDDP in current production engines is nil. So higher ZDDP content makes little difference to any current gasoline powered production vehicle. For a flat head, the use of ZDDP in high levels is probably not needed. Why ? The valve spring pressure and max operating speed for a flat head is LOW, compared to a performance flat tappet V8 application. So, if you want to run extra ZDDP in your flat head - go ahead, it wont hurt. Is it necessary ? Probably not. For a flat tappet hot rod V8 - I think higher levels (1200 PPM ) ZDDP are a good thing,besides what can it hurt - especially if you have no failures? The ZDDP additives only cost a few bucks per oil change. Anyway, the biggest factor in cam failure with flat tappets is improper break in as noted above - Sorry if this was beating a dead horse.....

P Flaming - you have a learn burn distributor. You may be able to adapt it somehow, but best bet is to get a whole different electronic dist. You need one that has one magnetic pickup inside and a vacuum advance . I plan on making this same swap, too, but need the distributor- which I will buy at the next swap meet I go to.