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About packratc

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Middle Tennessee
  • Interests
  • My Project Cars
    50 P19, 65 Plymouth, 68 Barracuda, 49 dodge

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  • Biography
    old, too many mopars, broke
  • Occupation


  • Location
    middle tennessee
  • Interests

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  1. I finally got around to dealing with the different flange thickness between the Langdon headers and the Offy dual carb intake. I had not been satisfied with the thick washers making contact with the different manifolds. It seemed to me that the washers didn't "catch" as much of them to really get a good bite. I cut up some steel into small pieces about 1.25" by 2'''s. Held them between each of the four uppermost studs and drilled a generous 3/16th hole where I guessed it should be for the stud to go through it. I then ground the shape of the plate to go around the manifold contours so it would catch the most area of each of the manifolds. I then ground down the "home-made" washer on the side toward the block where the washer hit the thickest manifold until the "washer" was level. Then I added a healthy 3/16th washer and locking fine-threaded nut. The home-made washers are funny shaped but you only see the tops which I ground straight across. I then painted them the block color. By now you've caught on that you are smarter than I am. You would have made patterns of the washers out of an old cereal box. I didn't think of that until I was making the last one.
  2. Made one today out of the clear vinyl plastic that they use to make curtain-like seperators in warehouses.
  3. I noticed the difference my self. What did you do to fix it? Thanks, Carl
  4. Thanks, Kendall. I had read about those leaking but George did not weld them. I've got the kit from Tom Langdon to run water but haven't decided yet if I'm going to. Have you run water in one and what was your experience? Thanks, Carl
  5. Another "Don't fit problem" arose. As I said before I sent my Offenhauser intake to George Ashe for the rehab job. Got it back and tried to put it on. I had raised the front body mount about 1/4 of an inch to get the Langdon headers to not hit the firewall. So now the Offenhauser intake hits the firewall. Again, this intake came with the car and I don't know how old it is but it doesn't appear to have ever been mounted. I don't know if Offenhauser built different manifolds for this engine some time ago, or the ones they now sell are different. In any event, it hits the firewall in my '50 Plymouth P19, Buisiness Coupe. I've been grinding on the end of the intake and I've dimpled the firewall a little bit. The car is/was all painted. Now it needs some touch-up. My question is whether anyone else has heard of an Offenhauser intake not fitting in a P19? Thanks, Carl
  6. When I bought my car it came with an Offenhauser intake and an aluminum head. One of George's services is to build & match your carbs on your manifold, make the linkage, and return the assembly ready to bolt on. He called me yesterday and said it was ready and I sent him a check. OK? That's why George has my Offenhauser intake.
  7. Got new Langdon headers. Had a nice conversation with Tom. Fitted them on the engine stand with the Offenhauser two one barrel intake. Had to grind both a little bit . Sent the headers to the powder coaters and got them back today. Engine is now in the car but intake is not back yet from George Ashe. Had put all studs in the side of the block for a good water seal. Rear header would not go on. Backed out the rear-most studs and swiveled the header up on the long stud and it hits the fire wall. Needs to go up about 1/4 inch to get the two rear studs/bolts back in. I the car has been all painted and has been driven. The front clip is off again. I noted that the foremost body mount at the base of the firewall could be spaced up may a shy 1/4 inch as it looks lower than the driver's side. If I spaced it up it would throw off all the alignment of the whole front end. I think. The other obvious solution is to cave in the floorboard a tad with a port-a-power and hope I don't break the paint. Of course the paint scar would be hard to see way down there. Has anyone else had this problem or have a suggestion for this frustrated red neck? I'm computer challenged so I can't include photos until my wife returns in a couple of days. Thank you in advance and you can berate me if you must for trying to get too fancy.
  8. No, it was 35 ftlbs. I thought 30 to 35 with pistons and rings would be about right too. I'm going to take it back apart after spinning it a few times to look at the squish pattern on the seals. Any other suggestions? Wish someone else had a torque reading they had taken. Thanks, Carl
  9. I've put it together with the external rope seal. The crankshaft was effortless to turn before the seal and now requires 35 ftlbs to turn. I've read before, somewhere, what this number should be but can't recall where. What do you all think? Is 35 ftbls too much resistance for turning a crank in new bearings and only the rear seal installed? Thanks, Carl
  10. Have compared both cranks side by side with calipers. Both have 4 bolt flanges. Plymouthy refers to crank "109" and I don't know where to find that reference on the crank. As I stated the casting numbers are the same (952068). Thanks for the replies, Carl
  11. My 1950 Plymouth 217 ended up having a bad crankshaft. Friend gives me cracked block lying on ground for years. Took it apart and crank was standard. Had it cleaned & polished. I was re-reading manual on engine assembly and discover that the 1953 crankshaft can't be used in any earlier engine. The difference appears to be the rear oil seal. Measured everything imagineable and the cranks are the same with same casting number. I hope to put the '53 crank in the '50 block and use the '50 rear oil seal. Will it work? Is there a problem with the front oil seal? Are the front oil seals and pulleys the same? They look it. Appreciate any advice. Thanks, Carl
  12. I took my 218 apart for the second time and this time it was not at my own shop. When I went to put down my main caps I ended up moving them again. Prett sure they're in the right order but don't now if they are turned around. Do the casting numbers all end up on the same side? In other words, are the casting numbers on all the mains toward the front of the crank shaft or the back? Yep! I feel like a dummy.
  13. My favorite mix for stuck pistons is half transmission fluid and half acetone.
  14. In trying to remove the my pitman arm my rather strong friend took a mighty blow to the arm and missed it and hit the bottom of the steering box. It is warped so as you can see it. The second seal was tough to get in and it distorted it so it leaked. In getting the seal out I had to drill into the seal to put puller screws in. I drilled into the pitman shaft where the seal runs. Except for the initial leak, all problems are caused by bad luck and my poor skills. We can fix all these but thought it would just be easier, since the engine is back out and the front end is off, to replace the box. Conflicting information from various sources continually fall my way. Now I'm looking at the steering box out of my '53 Dodge truck. That box is out on the ground already. I really am enjoying my hobby. The good news is that the crankshaft that my friend gave me from a broken block checked out as standard. Just have to polish it.
  15. Hugh Forrest, Do you recommend that I send my intake and carburators off to Ashe and let him do his thing on them along with steeing up the linkage? What carburators did you end up with? Is the extra money worth it for headers versus my friend adding another outlet and block-off plate to my stock manifold? Thanks, Carl
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