Dartgame

Okay - thank you for the comment about the upper bushing. I did lube it with some lite oil. I will take the stuff apart next spring and clean the associated parts and lube all the stuff again.

Appreciate the offer, since the car never had an overdrive originally, i am not using the oem system with kick down and relay etc. I have a wiring harness from George Asche. It will operate using a toggle switch, and a modern relay. Pretty simple to install, but I have been working my butt off on the car the last couple of months and its time for a break. Trans works fine as a 3spd in the meantime. Thanks for your assistance with the cable routing !

Okay thanks. I figured it might be something like that.

Subjective topic. But it seems to me the shifter in my car is pretty stiff in terms of movement between gear and in general. I've lubed all the moving contact points. The rubber with silicone grease. Car goes into all gears correctly, but maybe I am missing something here ? I expected the shifter to be a little easier to move. Thoughts ?

Got it installed in an alternate location thru the firewall. Works fine. I am going to wait on the electrical stuff for the overdrive until next spring. time for the car to take its winter slumber in storage until April or May.

Hey thanks. I was thinking the knock/hole out was going to be like the speedo or parking brake - over an inch. I do see the small knock out you noted. I'll have to make a new one because i mounted the 12v fuse panel too close to the knock out. At least i now understand where it goes. Does the rest of the routing sound right ?

Finishing up the overdrive install, to make it functional. Have to install the cable and the wiring yet. My question is about the cable. I found a post about this and wanted to confirm the routing on a 52 plymouth. First thing I noted is the dash has holes that match the bracket on the drivers side of the column. So i will use that location. What's got me a little bugged is next i see no obvious knock out or hole in the firewall for the cable. I have to assume the cable was then paired with either the parking brake grommet or maybe the speedo grommet ? Thoughts/comments please ? The post i found states that the cable is routed from the firewall, over the steering column, and then down and to the outside of the rear motor mount and then to the cable bracket on the solenoid. Does this sound right ?

I'd be certain to have the rods reconditioned and the block checked and align bored if needed.

If your engine has the outside seal that bolts on to the back of the engine as shown in Don's attachment, you will need to pull the trans and flywheel unless I am mistaken. I just did the same job on my 52 plymouth - it has a manual trans. I wanted to replace the 3 spd with a 3 spd overdrive and decided that while in there - the clutch, T.O., and pilot bearing should all be changed and the flywheel resurfaced . Once that far in I realized what a mess it would be to replace the leaking rear main seal if I did not do it at the same time. The flywheel covers up the upper half of the external seal and you cannot get it out otherwise. I chose to use one of the best gasket seal products- #3675 which is actually a conversion from the external seal to an internal style. Remove the oil pan, and loosen the # 2 & 3 rear main bearings (and remove the rear main bearing cap) to get some wiggle room and turn the crank to move the upper seal into place. Put some gasket dope on the groove of the seals before installing - install the rest of the rubber pieces dry and torque to spec. My motor has not been back together for long and only run for about 30 minutes, but no leaks so far, fingers crossed....oh and by the way, my main cap had a hole that would normally be covered with the external seal and would leak with out it being plugged. I plugged it solid with JB weld. Be sure to clean the main cap very well if you have to do this. I understand that not all motors have these holes drilled so you may get lucky.

We pulled the stripped body shell off a p-12 coupe - used four strong guys. Not that bad.

Be careful about the flywheel. 218s and 230s are different. And require to be matched to one another.

Hi Ed - the mdf 6002 i found does not have a solenoid on it. Never did from what I can tell. Do you see any differences in the snouts of these two ? Meaning tooth count, the gear depth relative to the nose and mounting flange, and the projection of the nose from the mounting flange ? I am thinking they are same from your picture. I think from what i have read that the solenoid version is from a v8 application.

Sorry was tied up finishing installing my OD trans and the hvac system in the 52 over the weekend. Trans works well, new clutch is great. Heater is not finished, but well on its way. I appreciate the answers so far. Yes - I know the 6 volt starters will work and last a long time on 12 volts. However, I want to run a 12 volt starter and keep my 6 volt as a spare. Anyone else ?

I found an autolite MDF 6002 12 volt starter for a good price. Okay - I spent hours searching through old posts here on 12 volt starters, and a bunch of time looking on line. I am trying to find out whether this will work on a '52 ply flat head "stock" (mechanically - converted to 12v) set up (146 teeth flywheel). I have found one post here that indicates that it will work on the 146 tooth flywheel for '56 and older cars, and others that are unsure or vague. Still other on line information says its for a 56 V-8 application. Another starter rebuilder website I found says the V-8 and L-6 starters can interchange. Does anyone have a Hollander interchange book, or other trustworthy source where they can look this up and tell me what the original application is and what it will fit - does it interchange with the L-6 starter for 56 ?

Thanks - my brother works for a municipal vehicles dept fixing radios and such. I'll ask if he has something like this...

I searched the site looking clues about what others are using to replace their speedo and emergency brake firewall grommets on a 52 Plymouth. No luck. The hole size is about 1.20 ", which I assume is probably intended for a 1.25 hole size grommet. I've looked on the internet, and various mopar, & brand X supply houses. Trouble is most of them do not know the dimensions of the parts they sell. ( typical answer - well it fits a 61-64 chevy...ugh, some have been kind enough to measure them for me on the other hand). Only found some from American auto wire grommets with a thick crosssection and relatively smallish center hole. I ordered a pair of these thinkin they can modded to work. Anyone have some suggestions ?

I'm so sorry to hear of your loss. We lost our Dog and Cat within a year of each other - 16 or 17 years ago, both due to age and health. The best medicine is to go find a new friend at the shelter. We got two rescue cats a year apart after the others were gone. The oldest of these two cats - Sox - is now 15 1/2, and I dread the day when he goes. He is a Maine coon and the damned smartest, gentle, most handsome, friendly cat we've ever had. Acts like a dog...I feel for you.

I expect you need to warm up the motor and then run the engine steady at about 2000 rpm for 20-30 minutes - drizzle in some sea foam into the carb every couple of minutes while doing this. U can use small amounts of water, carb cleaner, mystery oil, or transmission fluid and likely get the same results, depends on personal preference. It should clear out, unless you have cruddy fuel or a dirty fuel tank etc. I did this when I got the 52 running. It shot out incredible amounts of smoke and crap out the tail pipe - once that was done - she idled down beautifully and runs very nice since then.

For what it is worth I used AAJ brakes conversion stuff - front and rear disc brakes, and tandem master cyl bracket. Roger recommended using a corvette master cylinder , but I ended up using a master power brakes remote reservoir master cylinder due to floor clearance issues. Works perfect.

You can put in a pertronix unit as well in your distributor

Take a look at Mikes carburetor parts on line. Search for Holley 1904 parts air cleaner adapter. It converts the stock carter air horn to a single stud. I used one and bushed the adapter with a couple pieces of exhaust pipe to the right size opening for a mr gasket 6 inch 1 barrel air cleaner. Perfect solution. Some day when I put 2 carbs on I will get another set up like this.

Assume you installed the oil transfer pipe below the crankshaft - and have the pressure relief valve in place and functioning ?

If you need good 10" drums I have a set for sale. See for sale ads.

I had a sort of similar issue - shortly after I got the 52 running it just quit one day, and was terrible to start vs easy - it was the condenser - cheap Far East junk parts, (I had installed a new coil, condenser and points), and these are about all you can find these days in the part store. I opted to buy US made NOS replacement stuff at a swap meet. No problems since. If fuel is the issue, then Jersey Harold is right, it might also be a clogged fuel pickup in the tank, in line filter element or worn out fuel line hoses as suggested above.

My coupe was from out of state and the engine number was used for the vin. When I applied for the Illinois title the state requested an inspection. In order to get the the title the body number on the drivers door post was then used, instead of the engine number. Pain in the butt because I had to take it into the Secretary of State police for the inspection. At least they were fast and efficient in this instance. (Contrary to most of my experiences.)