Dartgame

My guess is the L2101 STD is a TRW piston, standard size. Might be a forged piston, the old TRW pistons had a centered dimple about the size of a dime with a hole in the middle. The hole is not tapped and is blind.

Hoopty - my car has 40 Kmiles on it and the axle works fine, and has no leaks, the wheel bearings are like new. That was my reasoning. I agree with your logic, I was planning to do an 8.8 swap but when I found I could get discs for the rear I went that way instead. The brakes themselves are all late model parts easily available. If I do end up having problems an axle swap is the plan.

Jersey Harold - you cut off most of the backing plate so it becomes in essence a bearing and seal retainer. You remove the drum from the hubs and reuse them. The tricks are the standoff’s and the caliper adapter...No changes to the emergency brake - still using the trans mounted brake for that.

Check with AAJ brakes in Portland OR. Nice people. I used their kit on the rear axle of my 52 coupe.

If these are drain holes for paint application, plug them with rubber or plastic plugs.

Plymouth doctor in Perry MI., sells those parts, and I see them on ebay as well. We used Plymouth doctors stuff, to correct an old collision repair - and found his rocker parts to be of good quality - same gauge as oem, but as noted above needed some tweaking. I think he has someone repopping parts in Detroit.

Okay I played around with some small pop rivets I have. These are small 1/8 inch size. I drove the “nail” out of the rivet and then put them in some 1/8 inch holes I drilled in heavy sheet metal. Backed up the flat side and beat the hollow side into an inverted cone using a tapered point punch. Then I flattened that side with a flat faced punch. Seems to work fine. This was using Aluminum rivets. I’d imagine brass or steel would be better for galvanic corrosion resistance ? Any feel like commenting ?

The key is patience. Keep looking you will find something you like. My preference was for a two door coupe, as rust free as possible. Well, I got the rust free part, 2 doors, and very low miles. Keep looking ! The toughest part of working on an old mopar are the rear brakes. This is due to the tapered axle shaft rear end. The rear brake service and adjustment requires expensive special tools too, and it can be a hair raising experience to get the rear drums off. If you have the tools its apparently okay setting up new brakes. The result ? A lot of folks here - I think - have switched to disc brakes on the front and retained the oem rear brake system, or installed a late model axle that uses modern style drums or disc brakes. For me - I chose to swap the oem rear over to disc brakes as well, mainly because of the low miles - it works fine and its already there. Outside of the rear brake drum removal and set up (probably not too different than others from the era), the mopes were always better engineered.

Okay - I just spent 2-3 hours searching the site for info on this topic. Seems no one has posted about this. My 52 ply coupe needs the vent window seals replaced. I am comfortable with what I learned about the window channels, and the curved portion of the vent window gasket. So my main question is about the verticle L shaped piece, that kind acts as a check rail/seal on the back (rear) edge of the vent glass. On my car these are steel backed L shaped rubber pieces and are riveted to the steel window channel. If I take those out I am under the impression that the replacements need to be riveted back in place for strength, gluing seems inappropriate as the weatherstrip glue wont hold it in place for long, it needs mechanical fasteners. In order to rivet these the rivet must be flat on both sides - so a pop rivet wont work - because the area for the door window channel and the vent window where these go must be flat for both pieces of glass to fit and operate correctly. Has anyone done this operation and if not can you offer a comment about how best to re-rivet the new piece of weather strip back in place. I have not removed the old L shaped pieces yet. I am familiar with pop rivets but have done nothing with semi hollow rivets - ever

Some of them are stainless without the plastic color insert. Possible alternate as a fall back.

Poly armor looks okay to me. Regular Nickel copper lines would work fine too - all are easy to bend into shape. You may have to cut and flare to length, be sure to use a double flaring tool. The fittings for 5/16 double flare compression fittings are made and work the same way.

Should be 5/16 steel line with standard size flare nuts...

And I want to correct my comment about the Mr Gasket filter. It is a 2 5/8 inch base. So you do need two pieces of pipe to bush the opening to the correct size. One fits tightly on the adapter and the other I glued w JB weld into the air filter base. Worked out very well.

Hi Jack - Sorry none at this time - car is in paint shop for a few more months. I can and will post some info when I get it back. I think I might have used two pieces of exhaust pipe that just slid inside each other to make the “bushing” for this thing. It’s been about 2 years since I did it - so my apologies for the brain lapse.

I think you might have read my post about using exhaust pipe to create a larger diameter. What I did was cut some pipe that just fit on the 2 3/8 od of the adapter you found and then used a mr gasket 2 1/2 inch base filter with a paper element. Works fine. suspect you might find a K&N in the same size, about 6 inch diameter to use as well. I glued the exhaust pipe with JB weld into the air cleaner base. Nice fit.

Compression test equipment ...?

Not sure maybe your car is different - but I’d think you can pull the flywheel without pulling the bell housing. Did it on my 52 w/ no problems...

Good point, forgot about the cam bearings - they’ll get wasted if you hot tank the block.

I think since you are this far into it - go ahead and hot tank the hard parts (crank, valve train parts, and block head etc.) get the valve guides replaced, and valve job and then reassemble using the 30 over pistons and the crank bearings, assuming you kept all that stuff in their original orientation. I'd throw new rings in after a light honing of the cylinders as 55 fargo suggests. You might want to shave the head to bring up compression - figure that sticks in my mind is 0.090 " for an uncut 218 head, but you should do your own research to verify. Someone on the site figured out what the standard uncut head thickness should be so you can make a judgement about whether the head has been significantly cut previously. Its best to CC the heads and block and do a calculation to accurately figure out the comp ratio. and how much to shave. Ideally 8:1 is your target unless someone thinks otherwise.

Yes, you should prime the pump before installing it. To do so, submerge the body of the pump in oil and turn the gear until all the air bubbles disappear from the suction and discharge ports and then install it.

I examined the seal wear pattern on both. Taking a leap of faith and making the assumption that both seals were of the same type. The wear marks indicate about an 1/8 to 3/16” difference. This leads me to believe the hub does not engage the crank snout the same depth. But of course the proof is in the pudding. I wont be able to do much further real world checks until I get to installing the part. Kind of frustrating....

I am looking at a three piece damper/hub/crank pulley assembly. I have a standard non dampened crank pulley. In comparing the two, the position of the pulley is different by around 3/16 “ or so, enough to make me concerned about pulley alignment with the water pump and generator. My question is - do these two assemblies engage the crank snout the same depth ?

Too bad the ones being repopped are so expensive. I wonder if there are not enough of us in need of these that a member here might step up to make some ?

Like others above said I’d do the truck motor. However it may be a decision based on overall condition of each. If the truck motor is worn out badly then the 218 might be a better choice. Only way to tell is pull the heads and the pan on each and inspect. If I understand it correctly all you need is the 230 flywheel to install the motor in your car. To verify you need a tooth count on the 201flywheel, if its 146 you are probably good to go with a standard 230 flywheel.

How cool is this. It sounds like you known about the car for some time ?