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dale

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Everything posted by dale

  1. I posted for him to leave the Ply six setup in the car because I installed a SB chevy with 350 trns in mine and really regret not having known about this message board and the availability of the Chrysler sixes and the speed equipment. Personally Id be much happier had I done that.
  2. Have a nice day crabby Adams.
  3. Leave the Ply just the way it is.
  4. I used a 1999 Explorer which had disc brakes on my 46 Ply . Used stock 48 Ply 15 inch wheels and 670-15 size narrow radials from Coker for tires. Used 1/4 inch spacers which made the rims clear the calipers nicely. Overall width was good also.
  5. Got to look hard to find a Plymouth drum that hasnt had the locating pin knocked off to accept other brand wheels.
  6. The original handle cant be altered much due to the movement would change the angle the cable is attached. I thought about this also and it wont help.
  7. I ran the cable from the Plymouth brake handle to the outside of the frame like the Explorer was and then with a turnbuckel hooked up to the Explorer cable so I could get all the slack out. Think Ill run a 3/8 inch dia bolt thru the frame there as the bellcrank pivot and install it as shown. With an 1 1/2 inch travel needed for the Explorer its no wonder the brakes didnt work.
  8. Probably get hanged for this but...How about instaling a Ford 300 ci inline six ? Easy to find, should fit in well, cheap to buy and or overhaul, lots of power, trnsmission choices including Fordomatics, etc. etc.
  9. I have the same problem with my Explorer rear disc brakes. I modified the hand lever to take the brake cable I had but that didnt work out at all. I got another Plymouth hand brake off a 47 and am now ordering a 1969 Roadrunner cable that will hookup to the hand brake handle like the old Plymouth did. It has been posted here that setup will work. Will see if it gives enough travel to activate the rear brakes. The way it is now is I pull the handle all the way and I can still turn the back wheels by hand. May have to do as Aigkerkwood suggests.
  10. Why not add a 6 volt to 12 volt inverter ahead of just the air ride and stereo ? Go to negative ground also.
  11. So I take it a rack and pinion with out power steers much easier than the old original box. right ?
  12. Now there are some nice looking motors !!!
  13. Back to the 50s has a couple thousand cars Id guess so the charge is reasonable IMO
  14. Andy Bermbaum has the glue on type. I used black silicone for adhesive and it worked great.
  15. Think the tough steering issue is more about driving the old Plymouths after getting out of a new car with power steering. Didnt all the old cars without power steering steer hard ? My 46 steers OK once I get her going. Tough part is turning the wheel sitting almost still. Hope I never have to parallel park
  16. Dont know about others but Scarebird will enable the use of the original rims.
  17. If the pressure switch is good the brake lites should be able to be on forever without the wires heating up. Got to be a direct short.
  18. Whatever it is it look pretty lightweight for the motor.
  19. My Hagerty police says my cars have to be in my garage or in my view. Maybe just being in A garage would qualify. Perhaps these burnt cars wernt insured in this case.
  20. Edit out.
  21. Find a Chrysler Spitfire 251 ci
  22. I would think you could put the electric steering unit in the motor compartment and enclose it with ventilation to the inside of the car' But again is it worth it. I have a GM power steering unit that I think was off a 70s Pontiac and plan on seeing if I can make it work as someone posted here awhile back.. I have a chevy 350 in there so I suspect it may interfere. Anyhow isnt this what this car sickness is all about ?
  23. Yes it would be nice if a member with the motor out would look into adding electric power steering. Id think the unit could mount in the engine compartment on brackets of some kind. Id try it but dont want to pull the motor and all that.
  24. You have to tighten the hose banjo fitting quite tight to crush the washer enough to stop the fluid from leaking. I had to go back and re-tighten mine.
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