Jump to content

Dennis Detweiler

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Dennis Detweiler

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth 4dr Sedan

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Play steel guitar in a band. Army 1970-72, coached club/rec/high school soccer, played in Branson.
  • Occupation
    Retired from partnership in painting and wallpapering commercial/residential business.


  • Location
    Solon, Iowa
  • Interests
    musician, old cars

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I haven't touched the dwell and timing on my 39 Plymouth since I purchased the car 3 years ago. I've been working on other upgrades to the car during that time. It was idling very rough, plugs sooty, stalling at idle. The vacuum meter showed vibrating needle as if it had bad valve guides. The timing marks on the crank pulley were covered in rust, likely for years. I checked the dwell and it was 50+. After finding the timing marks on the pulley the timing was 3 inches on the negative side of the marks. Adjusting the carb made no difference. I set the dwell to 39 degrees, timing at +2 and
  2. I was hoping for tension info that was more specific than the 39 manual which is "just snug". The 1/2 inch of movement or belt twisting seems more specific. Almost floppy might work? lol Then, tighten the holtzemfromphlopen.
  3. I'll check it again after running for a while.
  4. The 24489 Napa (Gates) belt is a cog belt. So, it's a little more flexible wrapping around the pulleys. I did the twist method and could only twist it about a 1/4. With that, I can turn the fan and it will slip the belt. I don't have a tension guage. I haven't started the engine yet. The belt that was on it before was the wrong belt and was too long and the generator couldn't adjust out any farther. That belt was too loose and flopped a little, but the pump and generator worked fine.
  5. My 39 shop manual doesn't mention belt tension. I bought a Gates 24489 from NAPA which is the NAPA recommended belt. How do you all adjust to proper tension?
  6. I had to replace the tank on my 39. It was rusted out (pin holes) on top and would leak when full. Initially I thought it was the sender gasket.
  7. My situation was different. The plastic needle dome was warped and would hang up on the bezel when it got to 15 mph. I used a hair dryer to straighten it. Works good now.
  8. Just finished setting the valves. I did a cold engine setting 10/13. Someone had it set cold at 8/10. I hope the valves aren't burnt. It's always had a rough idle, but ran smooth on the road. I'm going to check out the distributor when I get it back together and running. It has a 1942 distributor currently in the engine. Car is a 39. However, there is 39 distributor setting in a box of spare parts. The 39 distributor has new parts in it. Shaft is rusty like it's been on a shelf for a long time. Could be, the guy that was rebuilding the car never got around to installing the 39 distributor. He
  9. I got it to turn with the fan belt. The #6 hole over the piston has some casting blocking half of the hole. Too much to get a dowel to pass it. I'm using a bamboo skewer. I'll use the feeler guage to check the current valve clearances and jot down that setting for a curiosity reference as I reset each one. I'll use 10/13. I read somewhere, add 3 to the cold exhaust setting since it creates more heat than the intake. Add 2 to the intake. That would compute with Plymouth Adams suggestion.
  10. I'm assuming .008 and .010 are set with the engine cold? Would the settings be narrower on a hot engine or while it's running? Currently I have the manifolds off. I had a dual exhaust manifold on it and couldn't get to the front valve cover because of the location that was used for the front exhaust outlet. I'm going back to single exhaust and found another exhaust manifold. I'd like to get the clearances set before I reassemble everything. Set cylinder #1 with #6 TDC combustion stroke, #2 TDC set #5, #4 TDC set #3, etc. I tried the fan to get the engine to rotate, but the belt must be to
  11. Is there a best method to turn the engine to set valve clearance when working without a helper? I have the spark plugs out and the small plug removed from the cylinder head over #6. I don't see a workable method of manually turning the engine while watching for the compression stroke on each cylinder. Make a remote pushbutton switch to engage the starter solenoid in short bursts?
  12. I got the manifold and engine surface cleaned up and ready for re-assembly. I removed the valve covers and was surprised to find the inside free of sludge. Just clean oil laying in the low areas. Valve springs look good. Next, check and set valve clearances before putting it all back together. The shop book gives two sets of clearance numbers, one for hot and one for cold.
  13. I'll look into the conical brass nuts. Ebay also has several different kinds in that category. I got the broken bolt drilled out. Fortunately I was on target with the center punch. When I got finished with the drilling, the remaining old bolt threads unscrewed with needle nose pliers. All I had to do is dress the original threads with a tap. I'm happy that job is done. Next is to set the valve lifter clearances. Then start reassembly. I'm still undecided with single exhaust muffler choices. Leaning toward a long glass pack.
  14. I bought a stud remover tool, tapped on the stub several times and heated the block around it. I've been giving it shots of blaster for 2 days. The stud remover managed to twist off the remaining stub. So, I filed the little remaining stub flush with the block and punched the center of the bolt in prep for drilling. Looks like I have it punched accurately on center. This is a "bolt" that twisted off. Three exhaust studs came out with the conical steel nuts rusted onto them. I'm just going to dress the studs that remained in the block with a die. I'm not going to risk twisting any o
  15. The lower center intake manifold bolt was only finger tight. Both manifolds are off. The split manifold is not a true split. It's just has two outlets. The weld has a crack on one side, but I'll be installing a stock single exhaust manifold. I drilled out the 3 broken bolts that connect the two manifolds together and have them re-tapped. One of the two center exhaust manifold bolts broke off and has about a 1/2 inch stub. I have it soaking and will try to move it back and forth tomorrow.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use