56Alan

I have disc brakes all round with a 7/8" dual master cylinder which works reasonably well, however to improve things I want to change the MC to 1" and fit a servo. Anyone fitted an underfloor MC servo set up on a manual 48 Plymouth and if so where did you source it from? Thanks, Alan

After some advice regarding door seal rubber/foam replacement. I am not sure if the old door seals I have are the correct profile, that said I would like to find something that would do the job at reasonable cost so would welcome your comments.

Thanks for the info guys, I will remove it and inspect the tube and check the oil level.

My steering box leaks oil from the bottom plate where the horn cable exits, obviously there should be some form of seal but there is nothing to suggest what type. Can anyone help me on what type of seal is used and where i might get one?

The lokar setup looks like a good alternative and they do the cable and fittings to suit the explorer axle. I assume the lever bolts into the same place as the original one?

Dale, This is the mock up I did to see if a lever system would work, it does, although the dash lever requires more effort. The original cable only moves about 5/8" where as the explorer cable moves about 1 1/2" which is enough to lock the brakes The brackets need to be beefed up a bit so now I know it works I will make a proper job of it.

Merle, yes it’s shoes inside a disc and maybe I haven’t adjusted them the correct way. What’s the best way? Adjust shoes for slight drag with cable slack? Any advice would be welcome.

I went down the disc brake route (rusty hope kit) with the 2lb/10lb residuals fitted,removed the MC valve an although the front discs worked they required a lot of right foot to operate. Changed the MC to a 15/16" bore dual cylinder to reduce right foot pressure and the discs worked well IF I clamped of the rears because the rear cylinders are 1 1/8" bore so the new MC could not produce enough fluid before the brake pedal hit the floor. Fitted Explorer axle to rear which has disc brakes and now the brakes work well without the need for a servo. Hope my experiences are of some help, I only wanted better brakes at the front but ended up opening a can of worms as they say!

The explorer brake cable seems to require more lateral pull than the p15 park brake lever can manage, would a bell crank not just increase the leverage but not the length of pull? I may be wrong about this so if anyone has a pic of a modified arrangement it would be much appreciated. Thanks for the replies.

Just fitted an explorer rear axle with disc brakes which works really well except for the parking brake. Joined the explorer cable to the original P15 cable and because the old transmission brake only required a small amount of movement it's not enough to operate the explorer park brake even with all the slack removed. Has anyone done this swap and solved this problem or can suggest a solution before I put the transmission brake back?

Dartgame, I think your on the right track, the Ford MC I used is for Mustang 2 and Falcons which use a 7/8" bore rear cylinder so looks like I have another modification to do!

Regarding the shoe pins, these are the shoes that came with the car and the pins are fixed to the shoe. I assume these are correct for the car? Starting to think the MC may not be pushing enough fluid to the rear cylinders or is faulty?

My rear hose seals on the taper in the tee union not like the front banjo bolts. no evidence of any leaking fluid but a good point.

Why didn't I think of that!

Just got my rear cylinders stainless sleeved but........... fitted to the axle and I have the same problem, spongy low pedal. Clamp the rear flexy and I get a good firm pedal, adjust shoes so they lock on, firm pedal. Adjust shoes correctly, spongy low pedal. Using a Ford non power 15/16" dual master with Rusty Hope disc kit 2lb and 10lb residual valves and the standard 1/18" rear cylinders. I am thinking a miss match with the master and wheel cylinders? anyone have any ideas?