dale

If you get Rustoleum primer on too thick it will crack and you will have to sand it down to the metal.. Trust me Ive done it. I suggest not using it.

I would have replaced the charging system with a one wire altenator by now. Eliminates about half the cars wiring for one thing and doubles the amps.

The wiper stand in the picture is correct and used on convertibles and I understand now woodies too. On mine I took the chain off and left the inner sprocket alone and sent out the rest for plating intact. It turned out fine. The chain looks original also. As for removing the window frame from the door there is a bolt and spring that tightens the window and frame so it stays in place when opened part way and another one also. You can get to these from inside the door. Make sure to make a drawing as there are some other parts in there with the spring that regulate the opening of the window.

Thought for a few seconds the marker said John Wesley Harden.. LOL That would be a REAL find...Be nice to have a section here where members could post local junkyard photos of cars and their locations.

When I go under my car I place it on jackstands and then also slide cement blocks and then some 2X4s over them so I have double protection. If a car comes down an airhorn probably wont help you as you may be to dead by then. Wondering how much those Moog springs will help. Let the board know. If they help alot I may do that too. Are you going to add new double action shocks too ?

You have to remember the old old timers who really know these cars are naturally cranky and should be given some leeway...

I had the same thing where holes had been put in for screws. Had a local welder weld them shut with SS wirefeed and they turned out good for $10 per hole. Filed , sanded with 800 wet-dry and buffed them and they look OK.

This would be a great time to convert to front disc brakes and installing a one wire 12 volt altinator which would eliminate half the wiring and most all the potential charging problems. 99% chance the radio is shot so I see no problem of switching to negative ground for the altinator. IMO

Better check the shoes for brake fluid and if they did get it on them throw them away and get new ones. I suggest checking the pin lengths with a micrometer.

Looks like new paint ! Nice..

Wonder if anyone here has swaped that Hudson six into a P-15...

Ill donate my full set of nearly new cylinders front and back for the cost of shipping to the first member who contacts me. They are doing nothing out in the shed...

If you did manage to get them out the plate they screw into will have bad threads if any left in it. I also suggest you cut out the sheet metal section.

Is it possible to have too good of brakes no matter how you drive ?

I think these things inhance the driving pleasure. IMO

Well i drove my 46 Plymouth on its first run to test the new brakes.. I had installed a Ford rearend with disc brakes and Scarebird disc on the front and then replaced the original master cyl. with a firewall mounted dual master cyl. and vacuum booster. Final verdict... It stops on a dime with a tap of the toe.. Next on to see about power steering.

Something I had a bad time with my 46 Ply project was lack of juice in the garage and knocking out the breaker when I had the lights all on. After I was mostly done I found out if I shut off all the lights on the circuit the welder worked 100% better. I have an Eastwood 120 volt wirefeed and it works fine for sheet metal now. Make sure you cutout well beyond the rusted area when replacing the floor etc. A good self darkening hood and pliable leather gloves are a good idea too. A thin blade on a 4 inch grinder will do most all of the cutting if you dont want the expense of a cutting torch and tanks. On my Morris Minor I made a rotissery and what a great thing that turned out to be. Cost me about $50 to make it. Ill have to disagree about removing the body as you will wish you had before your done. IMO Just a few things that may help.

Yes I have carpet and the the sill plates have a recess for the carpet to tuck under. They were on e-bay a couple years ago for $300. Bernbaums has the same ones I think.

My 46 Plymouth had the metal under the sills rusted out so after I welded new steel in I bought a set of the glue down ones for $300 and glued them down with black silicone. They look great. I dont see a reason you need the metal in the rubber sill pads when you can glue them down.

How do you tell if a cap is vented or unvented ?

I had a new 1964 Pontiac Bonneville and if you had to stop quickly at say around 60 mph and up you could forget it. Slowed down some and then nothing. I had disc brakes on my British bicycle back in the 50s so why did it take so long to make its way onto cars ?

On my 46 plymouth I replaced the shoes and all the wheel cylinders and master cyl..with new. The drums were real nice shape too.. Never did get them bled properly and probably not adjusted in the rear too well.. After thinking about what could happen I installed Scarebird disc on the front after I found out I could still use the stock rims and using the stock master cyl.. It made a great improvement. I then decided on going with the 1999 Explorer rearend with a .373 differential and disc brakes again Ive just finished that along with a firewall mounted dual master cyl and proportioning valve combo. and vaccum booster. Need to pickup a section of brakeline and it should be ready for testing..On another kinda related note I was able to convert to an emergency brake system since I lost mine when I took out the stock transmission. Using the brake cables that fit the right and left rear disc from the explorer and another Explorer right brake cable installed backwards to the original Plymouth emergency brake and using 1/8 inch cable clamps under the frame where they meet I now have a emergency brake again.

Another growing use of duct tape!!!

I go to my file and select one picture and open it but still get the message the picture is too big.

Will you send me one also dudley32.. Thx