dale

Whatever cross references to the originals which were 670-15s I believe. My 46 ply has Coker " American Original " 670-15R and they run perfect.

By the looks of the master cyl and lines Id suggest you replace the whole system with new parts.. It IS your life on the line.

I just finished adding rack and pinion power steering on my 46 Ply.. Wasn't too hard after I found all the right parts to use.

I read a turbp 400 uses 20 HP..

It went to red as that is the color of blood.. My first motor swap was a Chevy 265 with a powerglide in a 47 Ply. The speedometer read about 15 mph fast at 65 mph so my passengers were very uneasy when the speedometer turned blood red and the needle read 100. LOL

There were some models that had a rubber part glued under the hood to keep it over the welting.

Well the car has an X frame so that's a whole different thing. Man that car is way to nice to go butchering up !! If it has a Sears rebuilt its probably already bored out 60 thousands.. Should be on the tag if its still readable. Id look for an overdrive trns. or install a 99 year type Explorer rearend. Disc brakes are a must. If you still want a Chevy V-8 id get a 327 because of the front mounts location and exhaust manifold outlets location. IMO

I ground off the raised area on the shaft that the steering wheel goes on. Get the wheels straight as you can with the car and then adjust so they are the same with perhaps a smidge toe in and then you can move the steering wheel in the correct position after you go down the road.

I should have read Ground off the raised section on the steering shaft. Not the teeth on the steering wheel.

OK.. I put on a rack and pinion so had to align the front end too. I did the string method by running a string along the outside of the tires and down the sides of the car until both sides were equal. I had ground out a couple of the teeth on the steering wheel so it would go on the shaft anywhere seeing there is no turn signal canceler anyway. Went under the car and measured the distance between tires front and back until equal. ( book calls for zero toe-in. Adjusted a smidge for some toe-in anyway. 1/4 inch. Slipped on steering wheel temporarily and drove down the side road to see how far off the steering wheel was and then made the correction for the final location. Its really hard to find a shop that will even talk to about an alignment on cars this old....Car goes down the road like my Cadillac so it must be fine. ( Not sure about aligning a car with weight on the front tires as opposed to having them suspended off the ground) I did mine with the tires suspended.

A Chevy 327 is perfect...I put a 265 in a 47 Plymouth coupe way back..For motor mounts 1/2 inch by 2 inch wide flat bar that went from the motor mounts directly to the top of the frame.. .Plymouth fuel hose threaded into the Plymouth fuel pump without any modifying...I used the Powerglide and mounted the back of it to a 4 inch channel welded between the frame members... Used early Ford rubber spacers... Powerglide oil cooling lines were the correct length to the radiator cooler.. Had to buy a floor shifter....Plymouth throttle linkage matched up to the chevy carb rod...Speed cable fit from the Plymouth to the powerglide. The 1956 chevy radiator was a slip fit into the Plymouth radiator channel ( It slipped out of my hands and fell into the channel and lodged tight...) The Plymouth drive shaft was a slip fit into the 1956 chevy driveshaft and I didn't even have to have it balanced... Think the exhaust matched close but I may have used a flex hose section... Speedometer showed 10 miles per hour fast at around 70 which was fun to scare my passengers.. New speedometer gears in the powerglide will fix that though....The motor swap took 2 days. Only raised the hood to check the oil etc.

We used to advance the timing until the motor pinged then back it off a smidge til it didn't. Not very scientific but used to win nearly drag between lights with the old 47....

I put a chevy 350 in my 46 but if doing it over I would have found a 251 Chrysler spitfire motor which is a fit in the Plymouth and had it bored out to the max and overhauled with speed equipment. Would have been really fast with the 411 rearend and super cool. Add rack and pinion power steering and front disc with power. Save you a ton of money and sweat.

With a std trns isn't idle suppost to be more like 700 rms ?

Looks more like a living room find.

Check to see if you actually have 12 volts going in.

Be awfull if the wipers ran backwards.. LOL

Guess on wipers it doesn't matter which way the motor turns. 12 volt to 6 volt resistors are readily available.

They use 8 volt batteries in 6 volt systems so maybe just a resistor they use on 12 volt systems ignitions that bring voltage down to 9 volts like on GM cars in the 50s would do. Would changing the ground to negative cause the motor to run backward ? Let us know how it works out.

Buy a 12 volt after market wiper motor. Much less trouble . Are you sure the 6 volt one even works ?

At my age Id like a clock that runs backwards... Do they run backward when you change to negative ground ?

Cubic inches and horsepower ?

No all you need to do is get a drive shaft built and balanced. LOL

Have you tried going over the dash wood grain with a light polishing compound and or wax ? Might take off the outer layer like they do to restore paintings.

If the 6 inches of play happened suddenly I suspect the loose steering wheel or stripped pitman arm or shaft. idea. Worn parts tend to gradually loosen.