Tom Skinner

When we were done eating lunch at the Woolworth Lunch Counter, we would go over and buy some coins. Yes they sold collector coins then also. I remember fondly buying all my 1880's Indian Head Pennies in Very fine condition from them in the mid 1960's. Of course a $4.50 Indian Penny then now sells for $45-$85. I remember gas was 23 cents a gallon at the Esso Station then also. A pack of Chesterfield Regulars was 23 cents also. Count me in I would go back in a heart beat. LOL:) Tom

One more thing. If you painted everything up real purty like - you had better use star washers on everything - every connection - especially the ground. I had hell to pay when I lost ground by painting everything real pretty and not respecting the Truth. A Ground is a MUST - or no (ticky no shirty) no worky righty. It is essential to maintian a good ground from the M6 Transmission functions or Glitches like this will prevail. The Bell Saw Strap must make metal to metal contact with the block to finish the circiut for the Transmission seleniod as well as a good ground to the fender for the Selenoid. Get out your pocket knife and make it come true. Tom

Perhaps Vintage Power Wagon, or a Mom and Pop Hardware (Not a bubble wrap store)

One I liked: Yes, I own this pickup truck, and no, it doesn't move furniture.

My 1948 Chrysler Royal starts like a gun shot. Its still a 6 volt, and I run it once a week about 25-30 miles around 45-55 mph on country roads. The trick is to set the timing just right - you will know when your there. For my C-38 6 cylinder its about 4 degrees advanced from service manual specification. Of course it helps to keep a new battery in it every 3 years and new plugs every year etc. I can tell you once you learn your car (pump gas when cold) then crank etc you shouldn't have any trouble starting these Old Flatheads up. Like Grandpa used to say: use it or lose it. That applies to just about anything LOL

Phil, The Fluid Drive Unit should come out by removing the Transmission, Lower Clutch Pan, and Clutch, without removing the engine, it does, however, necessitate some special tools to do so. Andy Bernbaum used to sell the Seals his phone no. is (617) 244-1118. One must remember a few special tools (Fluid drive Kit C-639) are also required to service the Fluid Drive Unit Seal change out as well. A couple of Pullers and A Burnishing Tool as well as Patience to do it right the first time. No forcing anything or scorring around the Seal would be advisable or the end result would once again result in leaks. Losing say 8 oz every few thousand miles isn't really that bad unless it effecting the clutch. I would just add Fluid. If you should elect to do it Page 55 - 60 in the Chrysler Service Manual tells how to remove the unit, and service the Seal. Good Luck! Tom

My neighbor has wood tools and will help me make one of these. In MHO that beats $280

That There is ingeniuty at its best. Or as the English would say "Thats Capital". Thanks for sharing a picture. I missed one on ebay 2-weeks ago (Ammco 1750) it was $200 but missing parts. when they go for under $4-500 they are usualy missing gauges etc. I'm hunting them at local flee markets where the owner is kinda ignorant as to their value.

Try running straight 30 wt Oil, and see if the pressure changes. I usually add ZDDP to my oil also. I use NAPA 30 wt Non-Detergent. Your pressures sound OK to me though. On a 1948 Chrysler I used to use mixed weight oils and they didn't seem as stable as the straight weights, our Flat Heads are tough on oil.. I just don't like using different weight oil (10-40wt etc) in my Flat Head. If it has any miles on it it seems to prefer a heavy straight weight oil. Another thing about those 5-30wt etc Oil weights they seem more acclimated to newer closer tolerance engines than ours. Its a matter of personal prefferences here - no right - no wrongs. Good Luck! Tom

Marty that sounds correct. In the Gus Story "The Case of the Oil Thief" from www.gus-stories.org I believe the oil pan rubbed the steering from worn rear engine mounts as stated above, the whole shabang was lower as a result and caused a slow worn hole in the Oil Pan. I think Don Coatney is a genius re-doing that oil pan the way he did. Well all I can say is we sure have a lot of smart fellars on this forum. I learn something everytime I open this Forum!

Gents, I read an ad for a 1929 Chrysler the other day in "Images of Motoring, Chrysler Heritage, A Photographic History" by Michael Davis. The "New Good" Maxwell bought 25 miles to the Gallon in 1925. Gas was about 70 octane then. How could it get to this point? The Car Companies still build Trucks and Cars that get 17-21 m.p.g. and Gas is now 87-93 octane. Gas was 11 cents a gallon then and that car cost $1,250. Now with inflation everyone will argue its all relative, however, I say - Bullhockey. Cars should not cost $35,000, Robots build our cars now. Somehow we as Americans better figure this one out soon or we will ressemble Finland, in Uncle Pekkas situation, and he doesn't sound happy. Government, Wall Street, or Oil Companies aren't going to fix it. That leaves us, we the people,to fix it. Gas prices doubled in the last three years. Go Vote. Your and mine Forfathers fought and died for us to execise this right, lets get someone in there to get that Canadian Oil here where it belongs. We elected him/them to do a job - if they can't - we should fire them in November. It really is that simple. This is America.

Rick, This sounds like one of the Gus Stories from the 1940's. This guy comes into Gus' Garage with an oil leak. He want to sell his car the next day to buy a ring for his girl and get engaged. Gus questions him. When the guy is visiting his Girl in the Mountains he loses like a quart of oil in one night, but around town loses none. The case of the oil thief I think its called. Try www. gus-stories.org and read the mid forties stories. Any way back to the story Gus can't find the leak laying under the car he's stumped. Finally he tells his Grease Monkey Stan to put the Bus on the Lift. Upon doing so the Steering bar comes off the Pan and she's dripping again. He fixes it so the young guy can sell the car the next day, buy his girl an engagement ring and join the boys across the pond the next week and go fight the big WW2. You see the sharp turns up the mountain allowed for leakage from friction that caused a hole in the oil pan. Gus welded her back and put some spacers in the springs or somethin. Good Stories! Tom

Jerry, Yes, true, the plugs in the newer NAPA Kits are Aluminum. They are soft like lead and plug in the same way a lead one would. Just bump them into place, they go in easy. Tom

Grady, Did you have a NAPA rebuild Kit? I was wondering because the NAPA 2-5066-A Kit for my 1948 Ball and Ball Carter EV1 (I-362) Carburator Kit had them. I think I paid @20 for it. Good Luck finding them that kit has them. Tom

Phil, I'm sorry you dropped the bolt down, and glad you retrieved it. Hope you ticker's doing better also. Eight ounces isn't bad - thats about what I added when I got my '48 5 years ago. You should be good to go. By the way did you retrieve the bolt with a magnet or how did you, now that you got me wondering. I hope you didn't have to remove the lower Clutch/Bell Cover if so I figure thats what took so long. Well - All's well that ends well - as the three stooges yoused to say. Stuff a rag around that bad boy next time and leave no room for it to drop down. I wish you smooth riding from here forward. Tom

And one to challenge all the panty waisted light bulb changers and commenters to a fight. L.O.L.

Andy was a real Character - thats for sure. As stated most people were pretty polorized about the man, but one thing is for sure - change. I'm sure Chris will do fine in his stead. But for the other places others may seek (and they aren't as rare as Brigadoon) V.P.W. (Vintage Power Wagon) comes to mind. There are others - Terrill Machine in Texas. The Walter Percy Chrysler Club web site offers more still. Bill Hirsch in Newark, NJ and Kanters in Booton NJ and Moores Salvage in S.D. have been helpful also. The Plymouth Doctor, The Old Parts Cellar in MA. The list goes on. I will probably just as soon look to Chris at A.B's first out of sheer habit though. Good Luck Andy! Have a Happy Retirement!

I hope your ride is inside, high, and dry. Then you can pop the top on a Barley Pop and enjoy - if not - that much rain could be a real hassle. I hope that third picture is not you garage with water surrounding it. Tom

Mopar Al, You can weld for my cars any day - Great work! Keep up the good work you are a natural welder. Tom

Goose neck mirrors and cow pusher bumper guards are rare for 1946-1948 Chryslers, and I would imagine for Plymouths and Dodges'. Rope Rails also (Pull Ropes behind the front seats) mounted on a Panel with Chrome Handes with built in spring returns for the rope. Grab Straps for getting out of the back seats or even original Metal exterior Sun Visors. Oh one more - Window Washing (Jar and the floor push button works equipment) too. These all demand premium prices today. Tough to find any of these "accsessories" any more. Tom

Fernando, When you get it running again you might want to: 1. Change the oil 2. Set the Carb with a Vaumn Gage (Not real rich). Just to be sure flooding of the crankcase doesn't occur. Maybe check oil on stick and be sure it doesn't smell strong like gasoline. I flooded my engine a couple of times and feel much safer with clean oil in the crankcase. Tom

azmichael, I apologize for my unfounded remarks to you. It was wrong. I am sorry for behaving like a fool. I will not make comments like this again on this forum. I hope you can see your way past my comments. Respectfully, Tom Skinner

Mike, Happy Thanksgiving! I was in the cups pretty good when I sent that post. I'm glad no hard feelings were taken - Thanks! It sounds like you may have inadverdently placed a wire wrong, I have done so many times myself. Tom

azmichael1, What might be more valueable - if I may be so bold, is if you got a service Manual and ran the diagnostics to run down your problem. Or shall we hold your hand and march on down to mamby pamby land and wait for someone else to do it for you? Tissue? Seriously though taking the Generator off and having it bench tested would be advisable

Correct. One must try driving it to be sure. One more thing to do is run the electrical diagnostics for this problem first to determine if its a short or bad wire or relay etc. The trouble shooting diagnostics are real clear as to the correct seqeunces to test it out. Tom