Tom Skinner

I shot a 90 once. That was on the front nine holes:D

Donald, Have you checked if its Polarized correctly? Polarize the Generator with Jumper Wires at the Regulator? cut a wire (Short Scrap Jumper Wire)and jump between the Bat and Arm Contacts. Firmly hold end of jumper wires to strike a flash between these terminals on your Voltage Regulator. This will Polarize your Generator to recognize a charge at the Ammeter - if this helps. You may have inadvertantly un-polarized it, jumping or disconnecting stuff. A Cheap Checks to save money. One more thing are the brushes in the Generator still good? Do they have any meat left to them or are they worn to a nub? Good Luck with your repair! Tom

Powerhouse, I know any advice now might serve to rile you, however, If the Generator is the problem, perhaps removing it and having it bench tested would help. Just a thought, I am not an Electrical wiz Kid. Good Luck. Try Static Timing her, maybe she's to advanced?? Tom

Dear NosDan85, If after checking those things you may want to static time it. That will tell if your getting juice to the plugs at the specified/required time. A good book for Trouble Shooting is: Automotive Trouble Shooting for WW2 Wheeled Vehicles by Robert V Notman. Contact him for a copy at: notman7@comcast.net. Its worth the $30 or so to have around and wil leave no stone unturned. Trouble shoots Electrical - Fuel - All things - Checking Coils, Condensers, Timing - Static and Dynamic etc. etc. Spiral Bound w S&H @ $35. Saves alot of time going straight to a problem. It was designed to Field Repair WW2 Vehicles in emergency Situations and is Re-Edited by him with Modern Caveats and Tips - A MUST READ for most of us. I have started everything from old mopars (1940's) to old Ford Jeeps (1940's) with this book. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Dan, If you have a Service Manual, you can refer to it for the adjustment, or repair. By researching your steps to this would give you confidence to try the repair. They are fairly simple and you would probably fix it. Tom Huntersville, NC

By Gently Vacuuming the Head Liner with a soft Brush Attachment most "Dark" Brown Spots will vanish - Not Stains but Cloudy Spots. These are where Rust Dust has settled into the Headliner after Decades of raining down into the Fabric. Re-Vacuum. Now try a Gentle Cleaning Solution for Stains. You will be amazed at the results. Tom

Don, Congradulations! Nice Cadillac! Enjoy your retirement! You earned it! Tom

Jim, Thanks for posting this Thread. I remember attempting to put a Baldwin "Tear Drop" Tongue and Groove Lock onto a $500 Door Leaf once using the Template to locate the Holes to be bored. You guesed it - wrong Template for that Lock in the $150 Lock Box. I ate that Door because the Lock didn't fit, the owner saw it correctly as my mistake. One expensive lesson learned was always check all dimensions using a ruler, calipers micrometers etc. against all other things considered. You have shown the rest of us the importance of this expensive lesson. Thanks again for posting and may your repair now proceed with ease and success. Tom

JD52, This may sound ignorant but would a Champion Plug suit your engine better? Autolites tend to be a cooler burning plug. Champions hotter burning. I have no Idea about the dual Carburetor set up so I may just be grasping at straws here. Tom

Dear 58Regent, A noisy valve is a happy valve. A Sowing Machine Click when the Engine is cold is fine. When warmed up though it should quiet down some. If not maybe a little Valve Adjustment is in order. .08 for Intakes, .010 for Exhausts - Hot. I keep my Exhaust Valves set at .012 because I like riding at highway speeds for extended periods of time plus I live in NC where it stays HOT in the Summer. Your probably fine, when a 251 sounds like a sewing machine you are right where you need to be. I have had 2 1948 Royals for many years, your good to go. Tom

W.F. Welcome to the Forum! Nice Car! Lots of knowledge and experience with this Forum. Good Luck with your new Car. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

Patrick, I rented one from Auto Zone that looked like that Northern Tool one and it does not work on our 46-48 Chrysler Drums. It doesn't fit our hub bolt spread or pull "strong enough" it was bought straight back and I bought the Taiwaneese one on line and it works fine. Tom

Patrick, I bought one of these 3 years ago and it works just fine. My car only has 56,000 original miles on it though. If you have a tough drum (rusty stuck) any puller will be put to the test. Its a safe bet for that price although I like to buy American Tools most of the time I have some foriegn made as well. The case it comes in stores well in a cabinet and everything is clean and ready when you need it again. I wouldn't pay twice that for the same thing because your only going to use it a few times anyhow. Example Brake Job, Rear Wheel Seals/Axle Seals and when will you use it again 5-10 years down the road? Tom

Michael, I know its seems like everyone is picking on you at times, but please try to understand we are just a bunch of "Tough Love" guys. Let me explain. Most of us on this Forum have restored many cars - mostly Mopars with our own two hands. As a matter of fact for years at car shows I wouldn't even stop to talk to the guys that "just grabbed their wallets" instead of a wrench to fix their cars. I am a little older now and show everyone respect much better. So when you send out (looks like your close to 1000) posts asking questions without a book/service manual/parts manual you get alot of flack. We respect the guys that have "grease under their fingernails". So just a word of advice - even though you didn't ask for it - please buy the book it will help you with your "Labor of Love". We want to help you too, but Tough Love shows others how to do things for themselves. I know I probably speak for many guys on this Forum, but if I don't and I have offended you, then my apology is in order. Sometimes it seems to me your just trying to outbest everyone here with the most posts. Content matters. I for one am pretty quiet on this Forum. When I do post I try to help someone with a repair or problem. We tend to be givers here not takers. Good Luck on your project, I do wish you the best of luck and I'm sure I speak for everyone when I write we really hope you finish your car in a splendid fashion. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Yes-but not a sharp point

Joe, If your Idle Mixture Screw is not conicle at the tip-that is to say maybe it has been screwed in to far and damaged, then you will never achieve a smooth/slow idle. if it is damaged repair or replace it. It could be something as simple as that without using propane etc. I have found that looking for the simplest solutions first save time and money. If I knew how to attach pictures here I would attach a picture of a normal Idle Screw but I never can figure out how. I got lucky once and attached a picture of my car and me to my name in the directory. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

unfair to Local 12th

Kevin, Push back the escuteon plate (round ornamental rosett) at the handle with a screwdriver or flat metal and it will reveal a handle shaft with a small tapered pin in it. Knock the pin out with a punch or nail and slide the handle off the shaft. They make a tool for just this application but it always sells on ebay for too much $30-$50. I always do it like I just explained it to you here for free. Tom

Don, Taking Care of Business Taking Care of Business Taking Care of Business and working overtime - alright! Tom

Rodney, Vacuum the Headliner first with a gentle brush. Then shampoo with whatever. When Dry Vacuum again. Repeat. It cannot be done in one rough scrub, and may be damaged that way. Really good results will be achieved in a patient fashion. Tom

Dear BloodyKnuckles, When you find the 588 at NAPA buy 2. I know thats about $130 instead of $65 but then you have an extra and can sleep well at night. Besides that never throw your old parts out clean em up and label them and save them. Future generations will sing our praises! I think they will? Will they? Well - at least I'm trying to be inspirational. Good Luck! Tom

Dear Dodge, The Imperial Web Site, or WPC Club Website might be able to direct you to an ad for one. E-Bay is an excellent source. Try John Gregory (440) 234-7989 OH. He advertises Carburetors in the WPC (Walter Percy Chrysler) Club magazine. I took this information off of Page 19 in the February 2010 Issue. Good Luck! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Bill, Can you take a picture of them and email them to Gary Jr.? That would be your best bet. I have 10" Trico's on my 1948 Chrysler, however, I have found there is alot of variance in the Lengths, (10" or 11") Arm Connections etc. If you can't do that when you go to a car show bring yours and try to match them that way? Good Luck. Ebay has alot of them from time to time, I scooped up my blades for $19.99 that way. I believe there is a left and right side Arm. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Off the subject just a tad........... How about that old sturdy Slant Six being bought back. A new owner could do all the maintenance and save tons. Oh well we were just dreaming.

Dear Claybill, You have gotton really good advice already and I agree with it all. Its either the master Cylinder or the Power Booster. Please don't take this wrong: but I am glad you are at the end of your $$ and you are finally taking the bull by the horns and going to fix it yourself. Unless you are "very well to do" you'll get hosed by well intentioned mechanics everytime. Its not their car so - its your problem - every penny of it. Its kind of like "owning it" when you take ownership of it - you fix it. The pride you feel from this, my friend, is the real deal. Good Luck! and may the Chrysler Gods Shine upon you and give you peace. You can do this! Get your Service Manual out and put on your Thinking Cap! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC.