Tom Skinner

Don, That looks like the key on the rear axle "spindle" where the drum comes off there is a key there. Go around the others ide and look. Tom

John, NAPA sell a Speedy Sleeve for the yolk I believe its just smaller than 1-7/8" using thousnadths they will check it for you. It only costs about $35. The seal is also about $30. Good Luck Tom

John, A small narrow puller will do for the pinion seal. I bought mine at Car Quest and ground it down just right with my grinding wheel. It work just dandy. Tom

I agree with Don on the parts supplier thing, however I was using them as an example. The Kanter Master Kit has it all for that price so they were easy to plug in for the example. I would most Likely go with Terrill Machine out of Texas for parts, or even Andy Bernbaum out of Massachussetts. Heck if I was closer to Washington State I would go buy it for $500. But I'm way down here in North Carolina so no dice. Anyway I personally think a good 251 at $500 is a heck of a deal for anyone that can drive and pick it up for that price. Tom

OberStar, My bad I misread your post. I see now you are going to sell a 251. Well thats different, but I would say with all the fixins you could probably get $1,500 - $2,500 for a good strong engine. Tom

OberStar, If you type in 1948 Chrysler on ebay there is a guy that is (here lately) trying to sell a recently (Totally) rebuild 251 for $1,999. I would think you could beat that price, however, even to do a (complete) rebuild yourself using say Kanter's Kit would be @ $1,400 just for parts. That being said a 251 engine that is say $500 is probably a pretty tired or not running engine. Caveat Emptor (buyer beware) would be wise to say here. Tom

Holy Moonpies Batman, (will our cape crusaders make it to the Cheerwine Isle before being inebriated?) or go over the Cliffs without a deal? Tune in tomorrow - same Bat Time - same Bat Channel!!!

TinLizzy, The Cheerwine Plant is still there in Salisbury NC., its about a 20 minute ride from my house. They still sell Moonpies and Cheerwine around here. Tom Huntersville, NC

Or the Gas Station was out of Moon Pies and Cheer Wine!

Jaker110, It starts where the No. 1 Cylinder wire goes into the Distributor. The Rotor should be pointing at that spot also indicating that the No. 1 Cylinder Piston is at Top Dead Center. (See earlier post on how to achieve tdc). I hope this helps! Usually 153624 on a 6 cylinder and 16258374 on an eight. See if you can get an older gentleman to assist you here. Tom

In the Book: The Complete History of Chrysler Corporation 1924-1985 a little story is told by Ray Dietrich on Pages 92 and 93: Ray had served as a styling Director from 1932-1938. (Ray recalls)"Zeder and Skeleton were always talking about service for cars - how much service you would get for this and for that". Chrysler used to go get a frankfurter and a beer with Dietrich for lunch and told him: "It reminds me when I was a kid my father would say "take that cow down and get it serviced" They never let me in the barnyard but one day I peeked in - and now I know when I hear the word "Service" - I know somebody is getting just that". Chrysler liked Ray, Zeder didn't and after Chrysler's stroke in 1938 Zeder accused Ray of being drunk and fired him. Ray Dietrich said "Chrysler had dynamite in his step his walk, his smile, his piercing blue eyes". Then goes on to tell how "the engineering department wore Chrysler down with all their demands". Well there you have it straight out of WPC's mouth "Serviced" is what your getting at car dealerships.

Spitfire, Bill Hirsch in Newark New Jersey has the original Hogs Hair Carpet. Bill Hirsch, 396 Littleton Avenue, Newark New Jersey, 07103 Phone: 973-642-2404. When the Best is around - they call him better. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

Gents, A little trick I learned when adjusting the Sisson Choke. Instead of blocking the throttle open 1/3 the way - simply unhook the accelerator spring and it will just lay in the 1/3 open position. Now pin up your Choke and adjust. It certainly leaves you an extra free hand this way and no acrobatics are necessary:) Tom

Correct, and remember to check ring gap as Don said. Tom

tctrkca1, The Cast one is most likely the Compression Ring - it goes in the Top. The 3 pc. Ring on is an Oil Ring it goes under - or on the Bottom. The reason is the Compression Ring must perform its Compression Strokes as a Piston Travels Up or Down and the Oil Ring provides just enough lubrication to the Cylinder Wall as this takes place. I'm not the best technical explainer around but take my word for it. Remember to be sure to install the Connecting Rods with Oil Port Facing the Way they came out The Valve Side of the Motor and the Slotted Side of the Piston Facing AWAY from the Valve Side of the Motor. The Oil Port Feeds Oil to the Oil Ring and Valve Ports. The Smooth Side of the Piston is the Thrust Side of the Piston and Faces the Valve Side of an Engine. Carefully observe how each one comes out of your engine and use the same connecting Rods in the same Cylinder that each one comes out of while re-assembling your engine. Its best to have a Service Manual on Hand to keep other important things like Ring Clearance Specifications and Torque Specifications for Connecting Rods etc. on hand for reference. Good Luck you can do it! Tom

Neil, Thanks! Tom

Neil/OldDad67, I have been doing my brakes on several 1948 Chryslers for 37 years. I always watched the arrow settings when diassembling and replacing shoes and re-installed similarly. Then using the bolt in the back getting the free play out. I have never had any trouble with my brakes. I guess I am just plain lucky in my own ignorant world. I am however very interested in seeing a picture of your invention. Primarily because I believe that Ammco Tool has become so absurd price wise. In my humble opinion people selling them now are trying to exploit peoples wallets. In a word (Rip Off). No offence to you rich guys that own one but if you purchased it recently - you probably paid way too much for it. Flea Markets still sell them occasionally. That would be the only way I would buy one. Tom

Shel Bizzy is correct. The Clutch Release Bearing is probably the culprit. I have been calling it the Throw Out Bearing. If 1" Play is not maintained it will spin. I know also that if its shot it will make alot of noise/metal shavings though. It can be looked at after removing the lower Bell Housing Cover. A tell tale sign of trouble is metal shavings in the area. Tom

I believe Page 60 in my 1942-1948 Chrysler Service Manual States: Seal Noise : A resonant vibration in the fluid drive seal and spring assembly sometimes causes a squealing noise. This noise usually occurs at speeds of 15 mph or when car is held by brakes and is in gear with clutch engaged. The sound varies in volume and ceases when clutch pedal is depressed. This noise can be removed by installing a damper. A Pilot Bushing can cause noise, or the Clutch Throw out Bearing - if they are on their way out so to speak. When my Throw Out Bearing was going before I did my Clutch job it sort of sounded like an electric can openener grinding until I depressed my Clutch Pedal. Looks Like a Look-See at the Clutch area is at hand. Take your time and Jack and Block your Vehicle up carefully about 2 feet in the air with cinder blocks and timbers and climb under that baby and take a nap. Once well rested take the Lower Clutch Cover off. A sure sign of Throw Out Bearing going bad is metal shavings and such around the area. The Pilot Bushing is tough to tell unless you pull the Transmission off. The Damper Seal is bad if there is a lot of Oil (Hydraulic) leaking in the Clutch Housing Area. Replace all once your all the way in there if need be because its a bit of work getting that baby to that point. Tom

Possibly a Throw Out Bearing on the way out? Hopefully just some adjustment to quite it back to normal? Tom

Oberstar, I think you are reffering to the Dash Pot. It regulates the Idle after you stop at a light etc. There is a small spring below it - if it is the one your talking about being broken, any real good hardware store with a good selection of springs will have one to sell to you. I believe your talking about a Ball and Ball Carter Single Draft Carburator. In order to determine what your working on please indicate the year/vehicle and type of Transmission on your vehicle (eg. Fluid Drive). Otherwise I don't think we can help you with out some more information. Tom

Big John, I just searched ebay for Kookymonster and could not find him. He was real big on selling Water Gaskets also like the Gooseneck and By-Pass Gaskets etc. Good Luck. I think I would venture to make one at this point unless you luck up on one. I even searched Sisson Chokes - nada. Tom

Big John, Some guy with a handle "Kookymonster" on ebay sold them for a long time. I haven't seen him in a while on the 1948 Chrysler offerings but maybe you can find him if you search. I believe he was getting like $6 ea. for them. The Gasket is about 1/16 in. thick though if your handy and make one. It seems it was sort of asbestos on each side with a real thin metalic sandwich in the center in material composition If I had an extra I would send it to you. I checked my Vintage Power Wagon, Andy Bernbaum, and Roberts Catalogs for you - no luck there. I bought 1 on ebay about 4 years ago, I should have bought more. Good luck on your search. Tom

GarbageState, Thanks for the heads up. We all appreciate being educated here on the p15-d24 Forum. I will have to drain my Prestone out and buy the green Zerex in the White container. Thanks again even from Rich and Captain Neon. This reminds me of a Latin Saying I learned in School. "de gustibus non est disputandum" There is no disputing eachother's tastes (in things). So true. Tom Huntersville, NC

Iron Lords Rule! Ron, Try using Marvel Mystery Oil in your gas. I had the same problem (gas boiling) from ethanol whatever filler they dump in it these days, and my problem went away. Of course I try not to drive when its above 95 out. I tend to drive real early in the morning on Saturday or Sundays only. I do this more to avoid the Tweeter Twitter crowd more than anything (traffic) in general because the Cell Phone crowd is growing every day. I use a quart bottle every other fill up, that is to say a pint (16oz) on every fill up. My car seems to like a pint - as much as most of us probably do. Tom Huntersville NC