Tom Skinner

Correct, and remember to check ring gap as Don said. Tom

tctrkca1, The Cast one is most likely the Compression Ring - it goes in the Top. The 3 pc. Ring on is an Oil Ring it goes under - or on the Bottom. The reason is the Compression Ring must perform its Compression Strokes as a Piston Travels Up or Down and the Oil Ring provides just enough lubrication to the Cylinder Wall as this takes place. I'm not the best technical explainer around but take my word for it. Remember to be sure to install the Connecting Rods with Oil Port Facing the Way they came out The Valve Side of the Motor and the Slotted Side of the Piston Facing AWAY from the Valve Side of the Motor. The Oil Port Feeds Oil to the Oil Ring and Valve Ports. The Smooth Side of the Piston is the Thrust Side of the Piston and Faces the Valve Side of an Engine. Carefully observe how each one comes out of your engine and use the same connecting Rods in the same Cylinder that each one comes out of while re-assembling your engine. Its best to have a Service Manual on Hand to keep other important things like Ring Clearance Specifications and Torque Specifications for Connecting Rods etc. on hand for reference. Good Luck you can do it! Tom

Neil, Thanks! Tom

Neil/OldDad67, I have been doing my brakes on several 1948 Chryslers for 37 years. I always watched the arrow settings when diassembling and replacing shoes and re-installed similarly. Then using the bolt in the back getting the free play out. I have never had any trouble with my brakes. I guess I am just plain lucky in my own ignorant world. I am however very interested in seeing a picture of your invention. Primarily because I believe that Ammco Tool has become so absurd price wise. In my humble opinion people selling them now are trying to exploit peoples wallets. In a word (Rip Off). No offence to you rich guys that own one but if you purchased it recently - you probably paid way too much for it. Flea Markets still sell them occasionally. That would be the only way I would buy one. Tom

Shel Bizzy is correct. The Clutch Release Bearing is probably the culprit. I have been calling it the Throw Out Bearing. If 1" Play is not maintained it will spin. I know also that if its shot it will make alot of noise/metal shavings though. It can be looked at after removing the lower Bell Housing Cover. A tell tale sign of trouble is metal shavings in the area. Tom

I believe Page 60 in my 1942-1948 Chrysler Service Manual States: Seal Noise : A resonant vibration in the fluid drive seal and spring assembly sometimes causes a squealing noise. This noise usually occurs at speeds of 15 mph or when car is held by brakes and is in gear with clutch engaged. The sound varies in volume and ceases when clutch pedal is depressed. This noise can be removed by installing a damper. A Pilot Bushing can cause noise, or the Clutch Throw out Bearing - if they are on their way out so to speak. When my Throw Out Bearing was going before I did my Clutch job it sort of sounded like an electric can openener grinding until I depressed my Clutch Pedal. Looks Like a Look-See at the Clutch area is at hand. Take your time and Jack and Block your Vehicle up carefully about 2 feet in the air with cinder blocks and timbers and climb under that baby and take a nap. Once well rested take the Lower Clutch Cover off. A sure sign of Throw Out Bearing going bad is metal shavings and such around the area. The Pilot Bushing is tough to tell unless you pull the Transmission off. The Damper Seal is bad if there is a lot of Oil (Hydraulic) leaking in the Clutch Housing Area. Replace all once your all the way in there if need be because its a bit of work getting that baby to that point. Tom

Possibly a Throw Out Bearing on the way out? Hopefully just some adjustment to quite it back to normal? Tom

Oberstar, I think you are reffering to the Dash Pot. It regulates the Idle after you stop at a light etc. There is a small spring below it - if it is the one your talking about being broken, any real good hardware store with a good selection of springs will have one to sell to you. I believe your talking about a Ball and Ball Carter Single Draft Carburator. In order to determine what your working on please indicate the year/vehicle and type of Transmission on your vehicle (eg. Fluid Drive). Otherwise I don't think we can help you with out some more information. Tom

Big John, I just searched ebay for Kookymonster and could not find him. He was real big on selling Water Gaskets also like the Gooseneck and By-Pass Gaskets etc. Good Luck. I think I would venture to make one at this point unless you luck up on one. I even searched Sisson Chokes - nada. Tom

Big John, Some guy with a handle "Kookymonster" on ebay sold them for a long time. I haven't seen him in a while on the 1948 Chrysler offerings but maybe you can find him if you search. I believe he was getting like $6 ea. for them. The Gasket is about 1/16 in. thick though if your handy and make one. It seems it was sort of asbestos on each side with a real thin metalic sandwich in the center in material composition If I had an extra I would send it to you. I checked my Vintage Power Wagon, Andy Bernbaum, and Roberts Catalogs for you - no luck there. I bought 1 on ebay about 4 years ago, I should have bought more. Good luck on your search. Tom

GarbageState, Thanks for the heads up. We all appreciate being educated here on the p15-d24 Forum. I will have to drain my Prestone out and buy the green Zerex in the White container. Thanks again even from Rich and Captain Neon. This reminds me of a Latin Saying I learned in School. "de gustibus non est disputandum" There is no disputing eachother's tastes (in things). So true. Tom Huntersville, NC

Iron Lords Rule! Ron, Try using Marvel Mystery Oil in your gas. I had the same problem (gas boiling) from ethanol whatever filler they dump in it these days, and my problem went away. Of course I try not to drive when its above 95 out. I tend to drive real early in the morning on Saturday or Sundays only. I do this more to avoid the Tweeter Twitter crowd more than anything (traffic) in general because the Cell Phone crowd is growing every day. I use a quart bottle every other fill up, that is to say a pint (16oz) on every fill up. My car seems to like a pint - as much as most of us probably do. Tom Huntersville NC

Don, I wasn't sure which way to put mine in either until I looked at a blow -up picture in the service manual. There you will see the correct postioning of everything very clearly. Good Luck! Tom

Also one can test their repair with a 9 volt battery. Hook it up and it should snap shut. Remember to hook it up to a ground also on this test. Then unhook it because your not supplying heat to it afterwards. You don't need a fancy tester here its not rocket science.

Yes these are the tabs there are 3. The insulating material is stiff, I chose 30wt felt paper but anything will do. I believe the choke gets juice at the beginning of the starting cycle - then the temperature relaxes the spring through the asbestos gasket from the manifold which slows down the idle from there. This is not rocket science here. Relax take a deep breath and adjust your choke (cold) as the service manual directs you to. Prestodigitorium (as Merlin the Magician would say). It works! Tom

Joe, Its been a couple of years now, but the top half comes off and the tab you speak of must be replaced. Then it works again. One must be careful to just pry back the tabs to remove the top - just enough to do so - or else its difficult to get it back together. Tom

Gents, If one gently pulls the Tabs back and di-assembles the Choke, Then it is relatively easy to re-insulate it using just about anything. I used 30wt felt (a scrap) and re-assembled it. It works fine. These things are about industructable. Clean it up well with a wire wheel and presto a new Sisson Choke. I snagged a couple on ebay last year cheap (they still can be had) for a little as $35 or so - but you have to hunt for them pretty much continuosly. Tom PS. I didn't know Mr. Sisson or his Grandson:D

Thanks! That was a really good Tutorial! I would think drilling that first hole at the end of the crack to start the proceedure would be the most important hole drilled, because one would need to position the hole so as to be sure it would circumvent any further cracking. After that it looks like - if your patient - it would be fun to do. I personally would not use Tap Bits in a drill, I would hand Tap every hole, thats only because I did some Machinist work in the 70's and wouldn't want to rush the Taping Stage. Well Thanks again for Sharing that - now any one knows they can Fix a Crack in their Block without welding. Tom

Reg, I use Marvel Mystery Oil in my Gas. Just add 4-6 ounces at every refill, thats seems to work for me. I'm sure there are others that will say its just snake oil etc., however, this is just my humble opinion. It is really cheap at Walmart a large bottle is only $4-5 (32oz. Bottle). It seems to keep the motor quiet running as well. Tom

Skiviskaves, Did you "Static" Time it? That would get the stongest spark at the right instance. As follows: Engine not Running. With the Piston of the no. 1 cylinder on Top Dead Center (Timing Marks Aligned) the points should be just opening. Loosen the Distributor Clamp and turn the housing in the direction of the rotation (clockwise) of the Rotor until the Points are closed. Turn on the Ignition switch and hold the end of the High Tension Wire from the Coil about 1/4 inch from a ground. Turn the Distributor in the opposite direction (counterclockwise) until a spark jumps the gap from the high tension wire to the ground. Tighten the Distributor Clamp and turn the Ignition Off. This should position your "Timing" to start the car, afterwards tweek the timing with a Timing Light (once engine is running) to achieve a "Dynamic Timing":cool: Tom

Jorswift, Its a piece of cake........if you...........................staysober. Tom

Mike, Please do not misunderstand this message it is not meant to anger or judge you or anyone. It is only "in my humble opinion" as lived through 37 years of experience with working on old cars. However, the guys that grab a wrench and a Service Manual seem to always come out way ahead of the guys that grab a wallet to restore their cars. Michael I really do hope you work out the bugs in your project with a minimum of money hassles. As I get older, I can see a day where I might have to rely upon someone else doing the work on my car as well, so Father Time will have its way with us all. I would still opt to pay a young person in my neighborhood to do as I instructed him/her to (while supervised) even if he/she had no experience whatsoever than to trust some of these so-called resto shops. They seem to thrive on what they think are "the well to do". What I'm trying to say is these shops think your loaded because you have an old car and have brought your old car to them. Case in point, my current 1948 Chrysler needed a clutch job in 2008, I bought it to a Transmission/Clutch Shop in Mooresville, NC (No Name listed on purpose), the owner wanted to do it time and material with no maximum price. When I pressed him for a price he finally said 3-4 K. I went home and did it myself for around $400. There doesn't seem to be a limit to some people's "Audacity". I hope your shop doesn't try to set you up as a mark on this one. Hell, I'd rather try a repair myself than be bamboozled like that. On a side note I recently drove by his shop, and I guess because of the economy - it is now shuttered down. I not happy about that either because I just got laid - off from my job recently also. Bottom line - our cars are fairly simple machines that anyone with a little research and a few tools can handle a repair on. Well anyhow Good Luck and thanks for letting me ramble- (run my mouth). Tom

All these old Mopars leak somewhere so a little at the Vent Hole in my Fuel Pump doesn't bother me. The other thing I was going to comment on is if its real hot out and you have turned your engine off for a short period - say at a gas station - then when re-starting just slowly floor the gas pedal to "clear out" the Vapors, while holding it to the floor hit your starter button and she should start right up - original fuel pump that is. It takes a little learning each vehicle just like the old days - electric fuel pumps - be gone - as Wayne Dyer would say (L.O.L.) You don't gotta buy into all that malarky. Those electric fuel pumps just saturate your crancase oil, pumping it prety much continually into your carb bowl, which in turn dumps it into the intake manifold and runs down into your crankcase dilluting your oil. Changing Oil every 500 - 1000 miles would then be necessary - or risk cooking something in there. This is J.M.H.O. - please realize I don't really give a damn what you put under your hoods - my car is stock and starts great in the south when its 95 degrees out. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Dodge Dude, I had the same mess about 1-1/2 months ago. I filed em flat, center punched em, and drilled them out incrementally with a small bit up to the clean out size. Use real Drill Bits (Not Chinese) go slow it took me about an hour per hole (4-Hours) to do mine. Then go see a good welder to repair the crack in the Manifold - Free up the Heat Riser Flap etc. Whoops I didn't see that busted Flange. I know if you go to the WPCClub website there are some junk yards listed to replace that exhaust Manifold is it a 230 or 250 Engine? Tom

Joe, It sound like your Timed at "Static Timing" right now - which is fine if that what you want. But as the Bar Tender in The Movie "The Shining" once said to Jack Nicholson "If f I may be so bold as to suggest Sir, you might want to solve your problem " - you might try a Timing Light and reach Dynamic Timing. That is to say get to the most economical setting, and then tweak the carburetor settings with a Vacumn Gauge afterwards. "In this way Sir you will have solved your problem". Tom