Tom Skinner

49 Dodge Dude, If that is a picture of your engine, where pray tell is the heat riser Flap? I see no weight, spring or otherwise to tell me if your Heat Flap is operational etc.???? Is it frozen open/closed or even operational? Tom

Vintage Woodworks LLC sells them: Phone 715/445-3791 $45 includes S&H for the set of 2 (2 block) and a (3 block). Total 5 post combo we use, may seem a bit pricey but.... thats your call. Tom

47D That reminds me of a song: In heaven there is no Beer, Thats why we drink it here, and since we're not here long, Then lets all drink another Beer. Auf Deutch: In Himmel es gibt kein Beer, Darum trinken wir es here Und seit wir nicht here mere, Dann trinken wir ein andere Beer. Yeeee Haaaaaa...... I'm gald you were OK with no damage. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

PatS, Excellent observation about the Transmission! I was under the impression this Thread was about the SSU rating of Fluid Drive Fluid though, and somehow was "transformed" - into a Thread about someone's Shifting difficulties. Either way I hope it helps people. LOL. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

This may sound ignorant but why not mix 50-50 the ISO-22 and ISO-32 to get that maximum Rating. That is to say correct 100-150 SSU thing from 102 or 149 to say 125. Ah - What the hell do I know, I'm just guessing. I mean this can or cannot be made into Rocket Science but Horse Sense tell me to find the same Brands in those 2 Viscosities - mix them and have optimal coverage. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Check out Pictures of Help a Newbie with a M6 problem Thread with pictures of tht spring.

Ozzie, DodgeB4ya is right but I don't think he understood your question fully. I have an EV1 Carb on my C-38 1948 250.6 cu. in. engine when I re-built the original Carburetor it didn't have the (Light) spring under the Dash Pot Piston either. The one I was using to rebuild it did - which I had the use 2 to build 1 concept also. I put it (The Spring) in under the Dash Pot Piston and when done it Idled much smoother than before. In addition to that I bought a Carter Carburetor Service Manual and it showed there was in fact a small light spring beneath the Dash Pot Piston. I hope this helps. Good Luck!, if you don't like it there remove it by just popping the top off the Carb, however, I think it helped my Idle smooth out quite well. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Mr Bobs48, My problem was a loose wire in the directional bucket - grounding out. Thank You all for the help I was given at that time. I finally replaced all the wires front of the Fire Wall one by one also. The Horn Grounding Cup in my Steering Wheel was slowly grounding out as well and heating up my horn re-lay switch to the point of burning my arm on it by accident one night after work. Good thing it did or I would have left my Battery hooked up to the point of potentially burning down my house as I have an attached garage. Any how check Bulbs, and Connections at Buckets first. Thanks a Million for the Help Again this is a Great Forum. I suggest you disconnect your Battery when not using the car/trouble shooting untill the problem is solved. Tom Skinner

JC. Great Article! Thanks for sharing the Site. Now even I could do this. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

I always drove in the rain freezing rain and snow with my first Chrysler Royal The one I own now I have also have driven in the rain. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

If its the trigger emergency Brake Handle there is a switch up in there that activates the bulb. Take it apart and it has probably broken in two and stays lit. I used Gorrilla Glue to fix mine and put it back together again - no more problems.

Don, Excellent photography to reflect on. I especially like the last one - removing a rear fender with a chain saw. Such beauty and artistry! Tom

Skipper1, An excellent Book to own for trouble shooting: Automotive Trouble Shooting for WW2 Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 1 by Robert V. Notman. Contact: notmanr7@comcast.net Its about $35 w S&H (I paid that a few years ago). The best Damned Book out there I will swear by it. :rolleyes:Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

And to think we provide Billions of Dollars of support to these "Mensa" Members.

At my last car show (Lowe's Motor Speedway Charlotte, NC) a guy with his wife and son stood in front of me (I was sitting in a folding chair) and kept asking me "How Much" "How much would it take to sell my car to them"? I simply told them if they wanted my wife's phone number so that after I was dead they could talk to her about buying it I would give them that number. Otherwise if I out-lived her they would be back at square 1 again. I find some people (as my Grandpa used to say) have no broughton up. I'm sure their parents tried but never got through to them on the manners thing. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

WS. Welcome! I think you will learn a good deal more here, so enjoy getting to know the p15-d24 crowd. We are a fine upstanding group of knowledgeable fellows. I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal and they have accepted me here and helped me out many times. Tom Huntersville, NC

RIWIRE also sells wire by the foot. It is like 33 cents a foot for 16 ga. I stripped my Harness down and re-wired it one at a time and saved a lot of money. This took much longer than buying their Harnesses though. Ask for Travis or Marsha. Super Nice People and Super Nice Service. They are - and their Wiring Products A No. 1. to deal with. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

My Bad, I didn't read it right. Sorry I can't help my Exhaust Manifold is a 250.6 Tom

Is it off a 250.6 That is to say a 25" Engine? Or is it a 23" 230 cu. in. engine?

38plyroadking, I'm sorry that happened man. Beautiful Car. I glad you were not hurt. I hope you can remain a car guy and go for it again. Maybe start over with another and keep going with our Hobby. Good Luck and all our best wishes for you from this Forum. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Neil, You may be right. There probably is a smaller effect when cold, however, why has my problem gone away? The Valve may not have a valve stop left on it - either worn away or rusted off. When that happens and the spring is cold the Flap/Valve is too far open and exhaust doesn't help the function which to some degree determines the fuel molecules reaching the cylinders in the right "suspended state". I would read those pages I suggested in that Booklet above because installing a new Stop correctly has seemingly fixed this problem for me. I believe it is stated as: "Its function is to preheat the air-fuel mixture delivered by the carburator so it will reach the cylinders in a vaporized state and be more efficiently converted to power through more complete combustion". In addition "watch the movement of the thermostat shield when the engine is quickly accelerated". "If the thermostat shield moves about a quarter of a turn when quickly accelerated the unit is working as it should". (Engine Power & Economy) Service Reference Booklet August 12, 1948 Volumn 1 Number 12. If the Valve stays closed as when cold vaporization of the mixture is not complete. " The Gasoline would be drawn into the cylinders all right but might not burn, Instead, that unburned portion would find its way down into the crankcase and dilute the oil".

Ditto x4 in modern terms: u need a new mechanic

These Old Flat Heads will Eat Small Screws if you drop them down the Carburator when they're running so a little ethanol - cornahol - whatever is like drinking Lite Beer for them. Truth be told Gas was 72 Octane with Lead in it when they were made, so 87 Octane with no lead and ethanol probably doesn't phase them in the least. Now maybe Rubber Gas Lines are made out of Crap and don't stand up to things like ethanol. Even the "Collector Car Restoration Bible" by Matt Joseph talks about the Fuel Pumps needing "Modern" Diaphrahms in them to combat the ethanol problem so maybe there is Rubber issues from this Crap Element introduced into our Gas nowadays. Was the Line Hot when you took it out? If so it would seem soft. Remember also the Rubber Line Flexes with Engine movement and this could also break down its integrity.

3 in one oil is what I have used since 1973 always keeps everything in order for my Generator Lube Ports just a drop or Two per Port two or three times a year (or every 500 -600 miles) works for me. Tom

Rockwood, Does your Temperature Spring hold the Manifld Heat Control Valve/Riser Flap in the correct position? The Service Manual Booklet "Engine Power & Economy" Volumn 1 No. 12 August 1948 on pages 16-20 discuss the importance of the position of the Valve a picture on Page 16 show the Valve Stop's correct positioning (when Cold) so the mixture/temperature is correct for starting - whether cold or hot. In addition to this a real "Rich" setting might be the culprit as well. Go to The WPC Club Website (www.wpcclub.com) see Technical Tab will show you the entire Booklet if you don't already own one. I just changed out my Manifolds (They were rotting and leaking) and when I re-installed my Valve Stop correctly it fixed my flooding when Hot problem and now when cold it starts like a Gun Shot. Its Critical That the Spring is wound conterclockwise as the instructions walk you through this pay particular attention to the Valve Stop position on the Weight. Tom Huntersville, NC