Tom Skinner

Greg, I hope you get under there and check to see if its indexed correctly. This is why I do all of my own work on my cars for 38 years. I hope you get it resolved. I torqued my pinion nut down hard to 120 - 130 (all I could eat with my old Torque Wrench) but I think it calls for more and I have no Vibration. A Damned Good Drive Shaft Mechanic will tell you heat from the Muffler can warp a Drive Shaft after a while. When he puts it on a Lathe and uses a Torch with cold water - if he knows what he's doing he will True it up for you (Balance it) Good Luck! Tom

Perhaps a Hood Release Cable Return Spring Mechanism? (When One pulls the Hood Release in the Cab, then this devise would have returned the Cable to its correct waiting position)????

Fellows: Awsome work on those Mats! They look Great! Back in the day when I was young and poor we just used old Skatter Mats to cover the holes in the Floor Boards so Possums would'nt jump in the Cab wif us and Bite ussuns - that is to say me and the Missus and the Younguns that is. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Larry, Yeah, your at the point of re-wiring there. Those Bakelite Connectors have "Bullet" ends pluged into them. You can get them also, and remember to Solder everything - especially inside your Directional Buckets. They come undone if you don't and reak real havock on your re-wire. Your stuff under the Dash looks real rough, you are probably a good candidate for the Whole Harness. Expensive but much faster. By the way keep your Battery un-hooked when your not using your car, there can be a real Fire Hazzard afoot with all your Bare Wires. Good Luck. I think most of those wire places are good, but RIWire was the one I used. Your Call! Have Fun with it and remember go slow and get it right the first time. I crossed a Wire at my Front Junction Block and it caused a problem I couldn't find for weeks. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Larry, Just a suggestion, not meant in a mean way, - perhaps a Service Manual for your car would have the entire Wiring Diagraham. I would follow it religiously for the sake of "keeping it Stock" then if you entertain "Accessory" notions or add ons follow the instructions. I know how confounding wiring can be I just rewired my 1948 Chrysler Royal. It took months as I am a hard head and chased the wires one at a time, a back breaking tedious task - but hey our spare time (hobby time) is our spare time so what the hey. By the way I bought my Cotton Braided Wire at Rhode Island Wire (www.riwire.com) Travis or Marsha are Real good folks to deal with, I bought wire by the foot, much more economical than buying Harnesses, but much, much, much, (did I mention much?) slower. Tom

Paul's Chrome in PA. They are the best but expensive also.

I envy you New Yorkers (New Englanders) for those wonderful Covered Bridges. When we were kids my mom and dad would drive us upstate NY from East Orange NJ back in the 60's in a 1949 Shivrolay (as Don C.) would say, and we would stop at the old covered bridges. Our family camped out a lot and we camped out near Fort Ticonderoga NY, Lake Winnepesauga NH etc. I will always remember fondly riding in the back of that 49 Chevy the smell of the wool seats and dad's Chesterfield Cigarettes. The windows down the hum of the road always put us to sleep, when we woke we would be either at another Covered Bridge or Camp Site.... those were the Days. Nice Memory Picture - Thank You! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

49 Dodge Dude, Even with all stud nuts off that baby is stuck on there good. My motor was relatively rust free and I used flat bars, wedges of wood, and a hammer, for 2-3 hours with no results. Finally marinating the whole manifold with several cans of liquid wrench overnight, then using wedges and a handle from a sledge hammer I climbed into the motor compartment sitting on the motor I stuck the handle of the sledge into the intake maniflod hole where the carb used to be and shook that whole manifold loose up to and including breaking several studs along the way to pry that rascal off. It werent no party. I felt like I was going to have a heart attack. Then slowly I removed all the studs and replaced them after I chased the holes with a tap. Use Silicone thread sealer when re-nstalling studs to keep any leaks from developing from the water jacket. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

White Spyder, We used to call them "Flappers" becuase when you drove down the street they would sound like .... Flap.Flap.Flap.Flap.etc. Tom

By the way, if you can free it up with liquid wrench applications and a vice grip plier you would save yourself a REAL wresttling match.

If what Shel Bizzy said, "its open" then you run like your "cold" all the time. That is to say the Flap never closes letting exhaust straight to the tail pipe. Therefore causing exesive carbon build up and light exhaust smoking? I'm going to guess that is un-burnt fuel/carbon smoke not oil smoke. I would look into cleaning up those reseviores in the Valve Chambers and Freeing up that Flap and addressing the Weight Spring issue. It looks to me like your going to have to remove the Manifolds. I did that last month on my engine and it was a Bear of a job. Tom

Could this then be part of the problem?

49 Dodge Dude, If that is a picture of your engine, where pray tell is the heat riser Flap? I see no weight, spring or otherwise to tell me if your Heat Flap is operational etc.???? Is it frozen open/closed or even operational? Tom

Vintage Woodworks LLC sells them: Phone 715/445-3791 $45 includes S&H for the set of 2 (2 block) and a (3 block). Total 5 post combo we use, may seem a bit pricey but.... thats your call. Tom

47D That reminds me of a song: In heaven there is no Beer, Thats why we drink it here, and since we're not here long, Then lets all drink another Beer. Auf Deutch: In Himmel es gibt kein Beer, Darum trinken wir es here Und seit wir nicht here mere, Dann trinken wir ein andere Beer. Yeeee Haaaaaa...... I'm gald you were OK with no damage. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

PatS, Excellent observation about the Transmission! I was under the impression this Thread was about the SSU rating of Fluid Drive Fluid though, and somehow was "transformed" - into a Thread about someone's Shifting difficulties. Either way I hope it helps people. LOL. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

This may sound ignorant but why not mix 50-50 the ISO-22 and ISO-32 to get that maximum Rating. That is to say correct 100-150 SSU thing from 102 or 149 to say 125. Ah - What the hell do I know, I'm just guessing. I mean this can or cannot be made into Rocket Science but Horse Sense tell me to find the same Brands in those 2 Viscosities - mix them and have optimal coverage. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Check out Pictures of Help a Newbie with a M6 problem Thread with pictures of tht spring.

Ozzie, DodgeB4ya is right but I don't think he understood your question fully. I have an EV1 Carb on my C-38 1948 250.6 cu. in. engine when I re-built the original Carburetor it didn't have the (Light) spring under the Dash Pot Piston either. The one I was using to rebuild it did - which I had the use 2 to build 1 concept also. I put it (The Spring) in under the Dash Pot Piston and when done it Idled much smoother than before. In addition to that I bought a Carter Carburetor Service Manual and it showed there was in fact a small light spring beneath the Dash Pot Piston. I hope this helps. Good Luck!, if you don't like it there remove it by just popping the top off the Carb, however, I think it helped my Idle smooth out quite well. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Mr Bobs48, My problem was a loose wire in the directional bucket - grounding out. Thank You all for the help I was given at that time. I finally replaced all the wires front of the Fire Wall one by one also. The Horn Grounding Cup in my Steering Wheel was slowly grounding out as well and heating up my horn re-lay switch to the point of burning my arm on it by accident one night after work. Good thing it did or I would have left my Battery hooked up to the point of potentially burning down my house as I have an attached garage. Any how check Bulbs, and Connections at Buckets first. Thanks a Million for the Help Again this is a Great Forum. I suggest you disconnect your Battery when not using the car/trouble shooting untill the problem is solved. Tom Skinner

JC. Great Article! Thanks for sharing the Site. Now even I could do this. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

I always drove in the rain freezing rain and snow with my first Chrysler Royal The one I own now I have also have driven in the rain. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

If its the trigger emergency Brake Handle there is a switch up in there that activates the bulb. Take it apart and it has probably broken in two and stays lit. I used Gorrilla Glue to fix mine and put it back together again - no more problems.

Don, Excellent photography to reflect on. I especially like the last one - removing a rear fender with a chain saw. Such beauty and artistry! Tom

Skipper1, An excellent Book to own for trouble shooting: Automotive Trouble Shooting for WW2 Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 1 by Robert V. Notman. Contact: notmanr7@comcast.net Its about $35 w S&H (I paid that a few years ago). The best Damned Book out there I will swear by it. :rolleyes:Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC