Tom Skinner

Gents, A Fellow by the name of Carlos just asked about this and I had just answered him and saw this thread is alive again. I said I thought the brass nipple for the top of the block (over 6th cylinder) was 3/8", however, I may be wrong on the size. Just bring the plug to a good Hardware store and match it up. Tom

Michael, Nice! I bet the reserve sits up around 50K though, and probably that is justifiable. I really don't know the going rate for one of these but that seems about right. Tom

Air Filter - Soak in Kerosene, Thinner, Diesel, etc. - Do Not Set on Fire! Air Breather can be soaked in Kerosene then burnt clean.

Ralph, When its done can you put polymil (vapor barrier) on the ground and pour say 4" of concrete slab in there to keep everything high and dry so to speak? Tom

I thought Lebaron Bonney was pretty much Chebby & Furd stuff. Sometimes Packard but I doubt it. Try Bill Hirsh, 396 Littleton Avenue, Newark New Jersey, 07103 Phone: (973)642-2404. Bill Will send you samples to match you up. By the way Littleton Avenue is nearby Mechanic Street in Newark NJ. For those of you that don't know, that is where Walter Chrysler housed Fred Zeder, Carl Breer, and Owen Skeleton along with 28 other Engineers in 1924 to develope and test his Chrysler Six from his Elizabeth NJ Plant to try to get a Chrysler Car going. They tested the car along the Orange Mountains in South Orange NJ and Eagle Rock Avenue, West Orange, NJ to show its power and design. I grew up there, and I can attest to the fact that (Eagle Rock) is one hella of a hill. Anyway Bill has your Fabrics and Carpets (Hogs Hair) and all. He is a little proud of his products though and rightfully so. Call him. Lebaron Bonney is for other foriegn Cars - not Chrysler Products. Tom

It dat coil no good man.

I'd rather spend $1,300 on Beer L.O.L. Beer hier, Beer hier, oder ich fall um, Beer hier beer hier oder ich fall um. Tom

The Car Quest in my town has an older guy named Jim that teaches the younger guy and they have the old Mopar Books. He (the kid) is learning. The Older NAPA stores in my area also are in the "Know" of older Part Numbers etc.. The kids will learn when given the chance, just as we did 40 years ago. "All we are saying is give kids (peace) a chance" - John Lennon. Make those little buzzards find those parts - inspire them - make them think. Take them away from their Computers for a spell - bring them a Parts Number. Books teach research. God help us old folks to have the patience to teach these young fellows the way. Stay with them and inspire them to find your part - be patient with them - it works! Tom

Karl, Welcome to the forum. You have a 1948. I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal. Is your 48 a Plymouth, Dodge, or a Chrysler. Is it a 250.6 cu in 6 cylinder? Is it a 230 cu. in. Plymouth 6 cylinder, or a 218 cu. in.? Well anyway I hope I'm helping narrow it down. By the way you posted fine and in the right place for great information. Tom

ptwothree has it right, separate the 2 manifolds and remove the intake first. Then if your lucky like me rock that baby bake and forth for three hours with a four foot wrecking bar and wood shims, or until you just about have a heart attack, and it will come off. Use lots of long Wood Shims to coax it out with a wood mallet so as not to crack anything:D Tom

Maybe that is Clutch Judder - not knocking? Does it occur at particular speeds? Say 15-25mph or 25-35mph? Judder is slippage in Old School terms. The removal of the Clutch Cover should reveal the culprit. Tom

I think Don has a good point, because I have always had to "Go Around" several times (2-3) Bleeding the Brakes to get a firm/high Pedal. I think I will try it backwards - nearest to furthest next time I Bleed the Brakes. Tom

I'm with Ed on this except for a Jeep or a couple of Snap On Boxes, he might as well have more bikes or kids toys (like most Americans) keep in their garage. I mean, he could have some Airflows, or Limo's, etc. maybe even a Packard or two, but alas nothin but modern junk. It looks more like a bomb shelter than anything else. Oh, yeah it had sealed white floors that was impressive. Tom:D

The older American Made Pullers are made sturdier than the Tiawaneese - Niponeese etc. Pullers, however, The Tiawaneese Niponeese ones do work also. I'm the first one to buy American first until you have to pay more than double for the same thing. The double price or more is usually my threshold. 90% of all my Tools are American Made, and I paid probably 75-95% more for them. I used to be a machinist back in the 70's and built Trident Submarines in New Jersey, I am a proud American. So putting me out to be a cheap skate sell out for buying a Tiawaneese Puller doesn't hold with me. I know Americans build better tools and I pay more for them. Twice as much or more is pushing it a bit. Whether we like it or not we are now and will always be from here on out "in a globle economy". Tom

Robin, A bit of work would be involved to do what I propose, however, it may all be fixed afterwards. Take the Carb cover off place it over a piece of 1/4" or 1/2" plate glass to see if it is "true". Use that same piece of Plate Glass to check the true on the Carburator body (Bowl) top as well. If the Carb parts rock around (are not flat/flush) then use different grits of sand paper on the Plate Glass to sand them flat again. Do not attempt this if too much metal has to be removed. I have found a small amount of rubbing it will do with a relatively fine piece of sandpaper to true up the surfaces. In this way the gasket you do install will no longer leak. When I rebuild Carburators I have used this trick with much success. Remember to keep everything clean while doings so and let no grit into the carb. I usually have the carb off and apart when doing this. It works but can seem like a lot of work. No more leaks are nice. I have done this with Carb Bases, Goose Neck Bases for Water Leaks etc. just trueing up surfaces that have warped slightly over time from heat is all thats happening here but is quite effective. Tom

Actually, I have googled ethanol free fuel stations in my zip code area and buy ethanol free fuel now. I really do get better gas milage and have a more responsive gas pedal on all my vehicles. That does make a real difference even if the ZDDP and Marvel Mystery Oil is or maybe a figment of my imagination. Tom

Are those real diamonds? Whew, I'm sure glad they are, I was worried for a moment. I use ZDDP additive in my flathead at oilchange time, and a little marvel mystery oil in the gas tank at fill-up. It runs as quiet as can be. Tom

52 Concord, Don has given you the best advice. The only other advice to be given is to also buy a service manual for your car. An older helper can also aleviate a lot of guess work and pain. Trying to tune one of these cars with the modern octanes and garbage ethanol gasolines today is becoming an art. Usually whatever the service manual suggests as a good timing (say 2 degrees before top dead center) advanced about 4 degrees is a good dynamic setting for your timing). That is assuming you know what TDC is and where your marks are on your Damper etc. The best way to time it is: 1. Set Point gap.@.020 2. Check Dwell.@38 Degrees 3. Set Timing @ 6 BTDC 4. Check Vacumm @18-20" (Steady Hand) or something else is wrong. 5. Tweak RPM @450RPM Good Luck. Tom PS. I buy Ethanol Free Gasoline now in NC. the Garbage gas gives crappy mpg and makes my vehicles run less efficiently. Go to Google and type in Ethanol free Gas closest to your Zip Code, it will show you a drop down list of stations in your area - try it you'll feel like your driving a real car again.

Static Time it with the engine not running for a starting point. Then start the engine and dynamic time it with a timing light or vacumn gauge. Or like us poor old boys did in days of old - by ear. Test drive it - tweak it again, test drive it, etc. Tom

I meant to say also, it was getting plenty of gas, has a new gas filter, and had weak spark at the block when I static timed it with the motor off. It starts fine - idles erratic.

Gents, I have a life long buddy with a 1944 Ford Jeep that is Idling rough. I tuned it up fine last fall and it ran like a charm. I tested the condenser and it didn't spark when the rubbing block was between two lobes the ignition turned on and I moved the points back and forth. Question: could a bad condenser cause an erratic idle. He thinks its old gas and drained the tank. Saturday we will try other things. The Points looked a little burnt in the center. Everthing considered after the tune up last fall it pulled 20 inches steady on a vacuum gauge, now its pulling 15-16 inches and stumbling. Cold or hot its idling unsteady so I don't think its the coil. Also the plugs are carbon sooty - heavy black all of them not just some??? All new plugs, wires, points, cap, rotor, condenser (last fall). Any Ideas? Tom

Fernando, Thanks for acknowledging my post. I have had 2 - 1948 Chryslers and my friend has had 2 - 1947 Chryslers, we just removed the seal and pulled the axles out by hand. I have made home made tools and have been very proud of them just as anyone that makes a homemade tool should be. So I think this is a great post inspiring us to invent homemade tools. They sure give us confidence when tackling tough jobs which I think is most important of all. I have always done my own work pretty much alone and we all need all the help we can give ourselves. Good job fellas! Tom

I just removed my drum, and then just pulled the axle out with one hand. I didn't need a puller?? Why would that be?

54 Illinios, Please disregard this, as I am only an ignorant hillbilly from North Carolina, but shouldn't the welch plug be put in the other way (flip it) and then peened into the hole with a ball peen hammer to spread it wider? If in fact your repair worked your probably correct and I'm the ignorant hillbilly. I have had a couple of 48 Chryslers but have never had to (Thank God and knock on Wood) mess with the freeze (Welch Plugs) before therefore I am only guessing here. I hope your repair holds - pulling Oil Filter elements or starters out of the way is no fun. Tom

Really nice Body work, you are soooo Lucky.