Tom Skinner

I'm with Ed on this except for a Jeep or a couple of Snap On Boxes, he might as well have more bikes or kids toys (like most Americans) keep in their garage. I mean, he could have some Airflows, or Limo's, etc. maybe even a Packard or two, but alas nothin but modern junk. It looks more like a bomb shelter than anything else. Oh, yeah it had sealed white floors that was impressive. Tom:D

The older American Made Pullers are made sturdier than the Tiawaneese - Niponeese etc. Pullers, however, The Tiawaneese Niponeese ones do work also. I'm the first one to buy American first until you have to pay more than double for the same thing. The double price or more is usually my threshold. 90% of all my Tools are American Made, and I paid probably 75-95% more for them. I used to be a machinist back in the 70's and built Trident Submarines in New Jersey, I am a proud American. So putting me out to be a cheap skate sell out for buying a Tiawaneese Puller doesn't hold with me. I know Americans build better tools and I pay more for them. Twice as much or more is pushing it a bit. Whether we like it or not we are now and will always be from here on out "in a globle economy". Tom

Robin, A bit of work would be involved to do what I propose, however, it may all be fixed afterwards. Take the Carb cover off place it over a piece of 1/4" or 1/2" plate glass to see if it is "true". Use that same piece of Plate Glass to check the true on the Carburator body (Bowl) top as well. If the Carb parts rock around (are not flat/flush) then use different grits of sand paper on the Plate Glass to sand them flat again. Do not attempt this if too much metal has to be removed. I have found a small amount of rubbing it will do with a relatively fine piece of sandpaper to true up the surfaces. In this way the gasket you do install will no longer leak. When I rebuild Carburators I have used this trick with much success. Remember to keep everything clean while doings so and let no grit into the carb. I usually have the carb off and apart when doing this. It works but can seem like a lot of work. No more leaks are nice. I have done this with Carb Bases, Goose Neck Bases for Water Leaks etc. just trueing up surfaces that have warped slightly over time from heat is all thats happening here but is quite effective. Tom

Actually, I have googled ethanol free fuel stations in my zip code area and buy ethanol free fuel now. I really do get better gas milage and have a more responsive gas pedal on all my vehicles. That does make a real difference even if the ZDDP and Marvel Mystery Oil is or maybe a figment of my imagination. Tom

Are those real diamonds? Whew, I'm sure glad they are, I was worried for a moment. I use ZDDP additive in my flathead at oilchange time, and a little marvel mystery oil in the gas tank at fill-up. It runs as quiet as can be. Tom

52 Concord, Don has given you the best advice. The only other advice to be given is to also buy a service manual for your car. An older helper can also aleviate a lot of guess work and pain. Trying to tune one of these cars with the modern octanes and garbage ethanol gasolines today is becoming an art. Usually whatever the service manual suggests as a good timing (say 2 degrees before top dead center) advanced about 4 degrees is a good dynamic setting for your timing). That is assuming you know what TDC is and where your marks are on your Damper etc. The best way to time it is: 1. Set Point gap.@.020 2. Check Dwell.@38 Degrees 3. Set Timing @ 6 BTDC 4. Check Vacumm @18-20" (Steady Hand) or something else is wrong. 5. Tweak RPM @450RPM Good Luck. Tom PS. I buy Ethanol Free Gasoline now in NC. the Garbage gas gives crappy mpg and makes my vehicles run less efficiently. Go to Google and type in Ethanol free Gas closest to your Zip Code, it will show you a drop down list of stations in your area - try it you'll feel like your driving a real car again.

Static Time it with the engine not running for a starting point. Then start the engine and dynamic time it with a timing light or vacumn gauge. Or like us poor old boys did in days of old - by ear. Test drive it - tweak it again, test drive it, etc. Tom

I meant to say also, it was getting plenty of gas, has a new gas filter, and had weak spark at the block when I static timed it with the motor off. It starts fine - idles erratic.

Gents, I have a life long buddy with a 1944 Ford Jeep that is Idling rough. I tuned it up fine last fall and it ran like a charm. I tested the condenser and it didn't spark when the rubbing block was between two lobes the ignition turned on and I moved the points back and forth. Question: could a bad condenser cause an erratic idle. He thinks its old gas and drained the tank. Saturday we will try other things. The Points looked a little burnt in the center. Everthing considered after the tune up last fall it pulled 20 inches steady on a vacuum gauge, now its pulling 15-16 inches and stumbling. Cold or hot its idling unsteady so I don't think its the coil. Also the plugs are carbon sooty - heavy black all of them not just some??? All new plugs, wires, points, cap, rotor, condenser (last fall). Any Ideas? Tom

Fernando, Thanks for acknowledging my post. I have had 2 - 1948 Chryslers and my friend has had 2 - 1947 Chryslers, we just removed the seal and pulled the axles out by hand. I have made home made tools and have been very proud of them just as anyone that makes a homemade tool should be. So I think this is a great post inspiring us to invent homemade tools. They sure give us confidence when tackling tough jobs which I think is most important of all. I have always done my own work pretty much alone and we all need all the help we can give ourselves. Good job fellas! Tom

I just removed my drum, and then just pulled the axle out with one hand. I didn't need a puller?? Why would that be?

54 Illinios, Please disregard this, as I am only an ignorant hillbilly from North Carolina, but shouldn't the welch plug be put in the other way (flip it) and then peened into the hole with a ball peen hammer to spread it wider? If in fact your repair worked your probably correct and I'm the ignorant hillbilly. I have had a couple of 48 Chryslers but have never had to (Thank God and knock on Wood) mess with the freeze (Welch Plugs) before therefore I am only guessing here. I hope your repair holds - pulling Oil Filter elements or starters out of the way is no fun. Tom

Really nice Body work, you are soooo Lucky.

When we were done eating lunch at the Woolworth Lunch Counter, we would go over and buy some coins. Yes they sold collector coins then also. I remember fondly buying all my 1880's Indian Head Pennies in Very fine condition from them in the mid 1960's. Of course a $4.50 Indian Penny then now sells for $45-$85. I remember gas was 23 cents a gallon at the Esso Station then also. A pack of Chesterfield Regulars was 23 cents also. Count me in I would go back in a heart beat. LOL:) Tom

One more thing. If you painted everything up real purty like - you had better use star washers on everything - every connection - especially the ground. I had hell to pay when I lost ground by painting everything real pretty and not respecting the Truth. A Ground is a MUST - or no (ticky no shirty) no worky righty. It is essential to maintian a good ground from the M6 Transmission functions or Glitches like this will prevail. The Bell Saw Strap must make metal to metal contact with the block to finish the circiut for the Transmission seleniod as well as a good ground to the fender for the Selenoid. Get out your pocket knife and make it come true. Tom

Perhaps Vintage Power Wagon, or a Mom and Pop Hardware (Not a bubble wrap store)

One I liked: Yes, I own this pickup truck, and no, it doesn't move furniture.

My 1948 Chrysler Royal starts like a gun shot. Its still a 6 volt, and I run it once a week about 25-30 miles around 45-55 mph on country roads. The trick is to set the timing just right - you will know when your there. For my C-38 6 cylinder its about 4 degrees advanced from service manual specification. Of course it helps to keep a new battery in it every 3 years and new plugs every year etc. I can tell you once you learn your car (pump gas when cold) then crank etc you shouldn't have any trouble starting these Old Flatheads up. Like Grandpa used to say: use it or lose it. That applies to just about anything LOL

Phil, The Fluid Drive Unit should come out by removing the Transmission, Lower Clutch Pan, and Clutch, without removing the engine, it does, however, necessitate some special tools to do so. Andy Bernbaum used to sell the Seals his phone no. is (617) 244-1118. One must remember a few special tools (Fluid drive Kit C-639) are also required to service the Fluid Drive Unit Seal change out as well. A couple of Pullers and A Burnishing Tool as well as Patience to do it right the first time. No forcing anything or scorring around the Seal would be advisable or the end result would once again result in leaks. Losing say 8 oz every few thousand miles isn't really that bad unless it effecting the clutch. I would just add Fluid. If you should elect to do it Page 55 - 60 in the Chrysler Service Manual tells how to remove the unit, and service the Seal. Good Luck! Tom

My neighbor has wood tools and will help me make one of these. In MHO that beats $280

That There is ingeniuty at its best. Or as the English would say "Thats Capital". Thanks for sharing a picture. I missed one on ebay 2-weeks ago (Ammco 1750) it was $200 but missing parts. when they go for under $4-500 they are usualy missing gauges etc. I'm hunting them at local flee markets where the owner is kinda ignorant as to their value.

Try running straight 30 wt Oil, and see if the pressure changes. I usually add ZDDP to my oil also. I use NAPA 30 wt Non-Detergent. Your pressures sound OK to me though. On a 1948 Chrysler I used to use mixed weight oils and they didn't seem as stable as the straight weights, our Flat Heads are tough on oil.. I just don't like using different weight oil (10-40wt etc) in my Flat Head. If it has any miles on it it seems to prefer a heavy straight weight oil. Another thing about those 5-30wt etc Oil weights they seem more acclimated to newer closer tolerance engines than ours. Its a matter of personal prefferences here - no right - no wrongs. Good Luck! Tom

Marty that sounds correct. In the Gus Story "The Case of the Oil Thief" from www.gus-stories.org I believe the oil pan rubbed the steering from worn rear engine mounts as stated above, the whole shabang was lower as a result and caused a slow worn hole in the Oil Pan. I think Don Coatney is a genius re-doing that oil pan the way he did. Well all I can say is we sure have a lot of smart fellars on this forum. I learn something everytime I open this Forum!

Gents, I read an ad for a 1929 Chrysler the other day in "Images of Motoring, Chrysler Heritage, A Photographic History" by Michael Davis. The "New Good" Maxwell bought 25 miles to the Gallon in 1925. Gas was about 70 octane then. How could it get to this point? The Car Companies still build Trucks and Cars that get 17-21 m.p.g. and Gas is now 87-93 octane. Gas was 11 cents a gallon then and that car cost $1,250. Now with inflation everyone will argue its all relative, however, I say - Bullhockey. Cars should not cost $35,000, Robots build our cars now. Somehow we as Americans better figure this one out soon or we will ressemble Finland, in Uncle Pekkas situation, and he doesn't sound happy. Government, Wall Street, or Oil Companies aren't going to fix it. That leaves us, we the people,to fix it. Gas prices doubled in the last three years. Go Vote. Your and mine Forfathers fought and died for us to execise this right, lets get someone in there to get that Canadian Oil here where it belongs. We elected him/them to do a job - if they can't - we should fire them in November. It really is that simple. This is America.

Rick, This sounds like one of the Gus Stories from the 1940's. This guy comes into Gus' Garage with an oil leak. He want to sell his car the next day to buy a ring for his girl and get engaged. Gus questions him. When the guy is visiting his Girl in the Mountains he loses like a quart of oil in one night, but around town loses none. The case of the oil thief I think its called. Try www. gus-stories.org and read the mid forties stories. Any way back to the story Gus can't find the leak laying under the car he's stumped. Finally he tells his Grease Monkey Stan to put the Bus on the Lift. Upon doing so the Steering bar comes off the Pan and she's dripping again. He fixes it so the young guy can sell the car the next day, buy his girl an engagement ring and join the boys across the pond the next week and go fight the big WW2. You see the sharp turns up the mountain allowed for leakage from friction that caused a hole in the oil pan. Gus welded her back and put some spacers in the springs or somethin. Good Stories! Tom