Tom Skinner

1940 Dodge, Well since you asked..... In my Humble Opinion, if you can keep her in one piece INSIDE a building or garage and dry you have won time to research her. Half of the journey is to research all the wonderful information. Sometimes I would read the same thing in the Service Manual every night for a week before I understood what it was they were trying to tell me what to do. One Great Book is: Automotive Trouble Shooting for WW2 Wheeled Vehicles Volume 1 by Robert V. Notman. Contact: notmanr7@comcast.net You will be sure to have her running with this 107 page booklet. Great Car - Good Luck - Stay Posted to us here on the Forum. There are a couple of Great Guys that really know their stuff here like Don Coatney and Bloody Knuckles and many more. Tom

One more picture of the home made tool. I am for saving money and being "inventive" in creating new tools made like the old ones. Tom

Falconvan, I always took a sketch of the positions of my Anchor Arrows and re-created the positions of the Cams etc when changing out Brake Shoes. Follow the instructions in your Service Manual. If your not sure test drive it and remove Drums again and adjust once more. Its not Rocket Science. If on the other hand you have about a Grand to spend on an Acme Brake Adjusting Tool - go for it. The wonderful ebay fellows think they are worth that much. I think a fellow on this Forum rents one out for S&H and a Deposit. Desoto39 or something like that is his handle. I have done several brake jobs without the tool with great results. Some guys want it perfect first out so take your pick. Here is a pic of a home made one someone on here has shared that I saved. Tom

Jon, Great Poem! It sure seems like it is true - at least so far. I'm approaching the 40th level of Hamburgers, beans, and laying in the Shade. That sure is a nice house you grew up in. What is growing out front between the sidewalk and road? Rosemary? Well anyway thanks for sharing. Tom

Don, Its attached now. The C-435 Kit is not hard to build at all. Tom

Cpt. Fred, I just posted it on Don's (Show your tools thead) Thread. I just wanted to share with others how with a little thought most of the "Special" Tools that are needed/wanted for our cars can be made on the cheap with a little homework. Tom

Gents, I put this Timing Indicator Tool together for about $26. First I bought a Pittsburgh Dial Indicator from Harbor Tool @ $12 Second a Dial Extention from COMP (ebay) for @$10. Then a Brass Fitting some Copper Tubing, and a set Screw from my Local Hardware for @$4. It inserts into the Engine Head Plug above the 6th Cylinder to read Top Dead Center in order to set the Timing within 0.001. Here is a picture of it. My Chrysler Service Manual shows it on page 86. A Test Light (C-744) is also easy to make to go along with it. Attached Thumbnails

Gents, I put this Timing Indicator Tool together for about $26. First I bought a Pittsburgh Dial Indicator from Harbor Tool @ $12 Second a Dial Extention from COMP (ebay) for @$10. Then a Brass Fitting some Copper Tubing, and a set Screw from my Local Hardware for @$4. It inserts into the Engine Head Plug above the 6th Cylinder to read Top Dead Center in order to set the Timing within 0.001. Here is a picture of it. My Chrysler Service Manual shows it on page 86. A Test Light (C-744) is also easy to make to go along with it.

Scott, To advance the timing adjust the Distributor in the opposite direction of the rotation of the rotor - thus in your case Counterclockwise - most likely. Tom

I haven't looked at mine recently, however, perhaps shortening the springs a tad and re-installing them would also apply some more pressure. Of course if one could find spring replacements that would be more desirable. Tom

Two Studs shown on left on top of exhaust manifold

Here is a picture of a sisson automatic choke

Congradulations! Now perhaps you can use pistons etc over again, hone up cylinders and save money. Great Job! Tom

Don, That looks like the key on the rear axle "spindle" where the drum comes off there is a key there. Go around the others ide and look. Tom

John, NAPA sell a Speedy Sleeve for the yolk I believe its just smaller than 1-7/8" using thousnadths they will check it for you. It only costs about $35. The seal is also about $30. Good Luck Tom

John, A small narrow puller will do for the pinion seal. I bought mine at Car Quest and ground it down just right with my grinding wheel. It work just dandy. Tom

I agree with Don on the parts supplier thing, however I was using them as an example. The Kanter Master Kit has it all for that price so they were easy to plug in for the example. I would most Likely go with Terrill Machine out of Texas for parts, or even Andy Bernbaum out of Massachussetts. Heck if I was closer to Washington State I would go buy it for $500. But I'm way down here in North Carolina so no dice. Anyway I personally think a good 251 at $500 is a heck of a deal for anyone that can drive and pick it up for that price. Tom

OberStar, My bad I misread your post. I see now you are going to sell a 251. Well thats different, but I would say with all the fixins you could probably get $1,500 - $2,500 for a good strong engine. Tom

OberStar, If you type in 1948 Chrysler on ebay there is a guy that is (here lately) trying to sell a recently (Totally) rebuild 251 for $1,999. I would think you could beat that price, however, even to do a (complete) rebuild yourself using say Kanter's Kit would be @ $1,400 just for parts. That being said a 251 engine that is say $500 is probably a pretty tired or not running engine. Caveat Emptor (buyer beware) would be wise to say here. Tom

Holy Moonpies Batman, (will our cape crusaders make it to the Cheerwine Isle before being inebriated?) or go over the Cliffs without a deal? Tune in tomorrow - same Bat Time - same Bat Channel!!!

TinLizzy, The Cheerwine Plant is still there in Salisbury NC., its about a 20 minute ride from my house. They still sell Moonpies and Cheerwine around here. Tom Huntersville, NC

Or the Gas Station was out of Moon Pies and Cheer Wine!

Jaker110, It starts where the No. 1 Cylinder wire goes into the Distributor. The Rotor should be pointing at that spot also indicating that the No. 1 Cylinder Piston is at Top Dead Center. (See earlier post on how to achieve tdc). I hope this helps! Usually 153624 on a 6 cylinder and 16258374 on an eight. See if you can get an older gentleman to assist you here. Tom

In the Book: The Complete History of Chrysler Corporation 1924-1985 a little story is told by Ray Dietrich on Pages 92 and 93: Ray had served as a styling Director from 1932-1938. (Ray recalls)"Zeder and Skeleton were always talking about service for cars - how much service you would get for this and for that". Chrysler used to go get a frankfurter and a beer with Dietrich for lunch and told him: "It reminds me when I was a kid my father would say "take that cow down and get it serviced" They never let me in the barnyard but one day I peeked in - and now I know when I hear the word "Service" - I know somebody is getting just that". Chrysler liked Ray, Zeder didn't and after Chrysler's stroke in 1938 Zeder accused Ray of being drunk and fired him. Ray Dietrich said "Chrysler had dynamite in his step his walk, his smile, his piercing blue eyes". Then goes on to tell how "the engineering department wore Chrysler down with all their demands". Well there you have it straight out of WPC's mouth "Serviced" is what your getting at car dealerships.

Spitfire, Bill Hirsch in Newark New Jersey has the original Hogs Hair Carpet. Bill Hirsch, 396 Littleton Avenue, Newark New Jersey, 07103 Phone: 973-642-2404. When the Best is around - they call him better. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC