DJ194950

What's next in line if you sell this when completed? It's the wife's is it not? She must like something else more? Is there another in the pipeline as I cannot believe how fast you get these old cars done, even if they sat for some time between working on them. Just kiddin' mostly except for the envious of the speed and quality of your work, great! DJ

Yes there is at least one plug in the rear. And per you picture one in the front. There is also one in the rear of the head. I prefer the brass freeze plugs as many here also, sometimes not always available locally put Can be had without to much effort. Have your machine shop remove all the freeze plugs And all threaded plugs everywhere- take some pictures all all around the block before taking it in for the work noting plug sizes and locations. Make sure the shop puts the block in a caustic type tank and does thorough cleanup with a steam cleaner type wash after. Reinstall all plugs with your preferred sealer/s. Best of luck, DJ

Look on ebay for boat tachs, many are 4-5K max., some (very few are 6 v.). Just make sure that they are for 6 cyl. or have the switch to change to 4-6or 8 cyl. if you still run 6 cyl. Seems to me that you might be the truck I saw at Tim's BBQ several years ago with the old type hemi?? Might have been your friends, not sure you know-getting too old! DJ

I liked it! Now i have head to the corner also! DJ

Have you tried adjusting the window lower stop to set the all way down position? The window front to back angle is also adjustable on the window mechanisms front and rear at their mounting points. This all assumes that the window mechanism rollers and such are in good condition? Your on the downhill part of this project! Summer and cruisin' are getting close! DJ

Tim, is it one of the classic old buildings in Clements along highway 26? or close to it? Hope so, they are nice old buildings! DJ

A 1976 still needs to be smogged here in Ca.?? I thought after the car gets to to old enough it was No longer required. ?? Have not checked on such things for years as both my older cars (1950) never had smog and is not required in Ca. to be smogged in any way to be licensed. Looking good to me! DJ

While this pic is from a 1950 Mopar parts book, these e-brake parts are similar for years, style of handles, size of drum, small details vary but ought to give your guy an idea of what should be there. Hope this helps some! DJ

Is the fuel pump a Newly rebuilt unit? I have bought 2 of these fuel pumps off Ebay (old new rebuids and neither worked for beans, one both the fuel and vacuum parts quit with about 5 minutes garage time, 2nd the fuel pump worked for about 10 minutes garage time, the vacuum portion was still working I believe. These pumps Will runs the wipers full speed up a hill, foot to the floor when both the pump AND wiper motor are in great conditionj. Could you have a weak wiper motor that nothing is going to overcome it's problems? A vacuum gauge will tell if the vac. pump is working good. DJ

All the manufacturers of the brake Line Locks state- Do Not count on their locks to hold vehicle unattended without wheel chocks! =no LIABILITY. The rental company years ago eliminated the drive line band brake (like we use) to just the brake fluid line lock--- Well I went by a job site were one of the companies rental forklifts that was in use was left overnight (on a hill) raised up with a load of metal roofing sheets! Well surprise surprise the forklift went down the hill sometime over the night and scattered the roof sheets all over the hill!! Actually was surprised the forklift was still upright-Not tipped over. Told him to read the Plate that was under the line lock lever which stated -Do Not leave unattended! Told him sorry but he was lucky as my company would have to bill his company for any damage to the forklift IF it had tipped over. There are disc brake E-brake setups available for popular brands rear ends (early Mopars not one of those-make your own?) that mount to the third member housing - not cheap- if changing a rear end any way----?? Do Not use a brake line lock for e-brake if you value your old car. It might work as a hidden theft determent, so if the thief hits the brake once-it will lock the brakes (even if they did bleed off) -for a while at least!? Just my opinion-of course! DJ

I saw Bob's Woodie several years ago while he was waiting for the wood man to complete those parts and I will testify that just the motor/trans/rearend/ frame look as good as everything else does now! Beautiful! Way better than the factory ever produced appearance wise at least. Hope to see it completed in person at this upcoming BBQ. DJ

Grade 5 all thread it is strongest readily available all thread. Most all thread is is not even graded. Grade 2 is 2nd. most avail. Grade 5 may take some searching but is avail. most areas, not hard to find. If I count correctly Don had 7 nuts on his install, did you? It all matters. Not trying to criticize in any way, jus' askin'. DJ

Dodgebe4ya- Do not know where you find some of the stuff ya got but is is very rare! Made my own copy? that closely matches the second photo, especially the rear part. Here is my fiberglass copy made off the pieces I had left. DJ

All 3 model heaters mentioned used that same(fiber type of connection, Which is avail.) part # part originally. While that is only a workable part, (I have bought one just like it), it does not really match the parts book pics as it is much more rounded. Works for me. I did not look for a perfect restoration. I was referring to only the model 550 heater which came in my car that has an underdash heat distribution fiber type of tube that ran from the pass. side to the driver side as being impossible to find, never seen one for sale. Ya never know however! The other models most likely will also work fine just not as overly done as mine as it does too much for here. Unless you drive your old Mopar in the dead of winter in regularly Freezing temps. I believe they will all work fine! DJ

I can tell you that there are a model 100, 300, and 550 in the 1949 Plymouth parts book and I have a 550 in my 50 Plymouth 4 dr. and it will cook you on high and when motor is totally warmed up that low is almost too much, but I live in central Ca. but only gets to a freezing temp. a few days a year. The defroster alone is almost too much! Trying to find a good condition one complete may be almost impossible though as the heater distribution part in made of something not more than molded cardboard! The other pieces are out there. DJ

Problem areas to check: 1- bell housing alignment to center of crank pilot bearing within .003 2- same for trans to same within .003 3- worn 3sp. trans part of OD trans, the OD part should have nothing to do with your problem. Look at a later Mopar repair manual to work on it. Regular trans parts are the same between non OD trans and OD trans Except for main shaft. Should make your parts search somewhat easier except for some gasket and a seal exclusive to the OD portion. There are early 50's trans with brass(bronze?) strut type synchro rings and a later 50's type with pin type so get parts to match your model trans.

DJ to 1949 goat- To Add to my post 5 minutes ago-- Napa # for 1 gal. of gl1 is 65-201! Surprise! I got to thinking if 5 gal. is 65-205- I searched Napa for 65-201 and see what comes up?. 1 gal. of gl-1 oil! Hope it is available to you locally. DJ

I have only been able to find a Napa # for 5 gal. pail # 65-205. Just 2 years ago they had gallons available but for some reason I cannot find what I still have of a gallon I purchased to get a # for it. Hope that at least get you enough of a clue that a local Napa store can find the # on their computers and also find if they still sell 1 gal. containers of same! Good luck! DJ

It has been many a year but way back when I used an adjustable reamer With a tapered pilot to keep it aligned with both bushings at the same time. I did one side then the other after slowly making it larger until one end fit fairly tightly then reversed the tool to slowly get the other bushing done to the same. Worked extremely well even on the first time I did it. Like this one- not cheap! ( attached) Surprised a local machine shop does not have one and Someone who knows how to use it. They are available at Harbor Frieght as a set for about $70 But it does Not have the alignment tool to keep it centered, So probably not.

Man o' man- that came out better than two old Plymouths that I have had done at upholstery shops! Please do not tell us that you also sewed it up! DJ

Hard to say for sure but if you lay a straight edge across the faces of the intake and exhaust mounting flanges, I believe you will find they are Not flat between the two parts. If someone were to tighten the mounting nuts to eliminate leaks if will definitely break off pieces or cause the cracks many have found on the manifolds. If you find a replacement set make sure to check it also for flatness. Since if you try to loosen the bolts/studs between the intake and exhaust to even the flanges you will almost surely break some! You can have the flanges machined flat ( at a local motor rebuild shop) without removing any bolts -which would almost always a good idea anyway. DJ

Ya, it needs turn signals and maybe some running lights, the right type of glass for the windshield to be 50 state legal. Yes Tim, I am kidding!! DJ

Know the build plans are are available? . Maybe on a newer chassis?? Been thinking of building a tiny home on wheels and then sell my house and travel! DJ

Have you made sure the big nut that holds the pulley/balancer on "if it has a balancer" is tight?? Some balancers were made in two pieces with rubber molded between the two parts that often gets bad with age and can come apart. The worse that can happen? - a part comes off and destroys the radiator. You can try with a mirror and light take a look at least. Actually hope that it not your issue and someone got crazy with a hammer or other tool at some point and it's just bent! Livable for now. DJ

A quick google search for: 1948 dodge glove box Showed 5 on ebay and a couple of other sellers Not ebay. One on ebay came with the proper screws and decals. Lookin good! Close to the finish line! DJ