DJ194950

Maybe the keyword in some of the responses seems to be Finish a project like this? That often seems to be the part many never quite get there. From past experience with this forum, they can and do support Projects if the poster appears to be determined to get it done and licensed, driveable-Done. Life can and often does get in the way with even the best of intentions, too often! Like to see old Mopar projects get Back on the road for all to enjoy! Best, DJ

Chain and cable lube that I have dealt with is very good sticky stuff that is almost impossible to get off- just what it was meant to do. The only possible downside maybe if you plan to someday try to start this motor without a rebuild. I very much expect the rings will be so full of that lube that they would never free up and seal again. I believe you said that someday a rebuild would be done, if so no problemo! DJ

Now first let me preference this remark from some older reading- I understand that that the casting company that does Edgy's work likes to do a minimum # before starting on any, therefore Edgy needs to at least get close to that # before getting them cast and he needs time to do the finish machine work. This is how and maybe he can keep his prices within some reason. This just does make them not always readily available as most of us would like them but workable for those with patience. Things may have changed with a bigger/steady demand, hence the opening remark. The above post seems? to show some lead time on getting one? Please remarks from those who have ordered and received a Edgy head. DJ

P-18 = 1949 Plymouth but does it match the title.? Only Some states used the engine block # as the ID # on their titles, but if you can find the frame # over the frame arch of the driver side behind the wheel it would match if original engine = more work on your part if you really want to know. Many posts on locations in the area of location of the # as they were hand stamped and different persons, factory locations, etc. caused variations but all are in the same area But can be fairly light stamps and only very good cleaning will show the # most times. Good luck with all your work, but take your time and enjoy it all- well worth it in the end! DJ

Certainly Appears to be the way the earliest Ford MII was done using all the stock components in including the stock crossmember from the MII. Cannot tell from the pic but should still have used the lower rod that connected to the lower a-arm angled back about 2 ft. to the frame mount with rubber insulators (both ends) that allowed the up/down movement. A Cheap way to accomplish a suspension But sloppy. It was eliminated with the newer aftermarket install kits with a Real lower wishbone mounted at front And back of the crossmember. DJ

After your post I did watch a lot of u tube videos on this process. Appears Not be totally hard but does in deed take a careful/steady hand and careful prep.!! You did Very, Very good with the first time work! I I have seen a few companies that were doing it at the start on car parts, but the were also expensive beyond my pocketbook! Love the idea that it can be done at home!! May I ask the type of burl wood that pattern mimics and which of the many sellers online you bought it from?? DJ

You certainly build some nice modified cars! DJ

Disk brakes are great but not always a great change unless you carry a weight loaded car or live in a mountainous area and meet to do a lot of heavier braking. If you can lock up all 4 when needed ( the stock setup will) how much more can a disk setup do (without ABS) ? The one downside for me is the higher pedal pressure required for the stock. But a small woman could and can do it, well I guess I can work with that! Builds muscle strength ! DJ

Just ran across this co. no personal experience- maybe some else has? Hope this attachment works. DJ Original Auto Interiors Inc. _ About Us.htm

That may help-I see those at local swaps meets all the time-cheap- nobody wants old Mopar Flathead stuff.--NOT!!!! DJ

Any pictures of that repair work and of what the glass guy did to seal a repaired opening passenger window by chance? Sure many could get some ideas of a way to also seal up the stock setup. Thanks, DJ

I believe the guy mentioned in Venus, Pa. Is George. One of the AoK boys- Now Tim K.. and George. Best, DJ

Yes it does but I like the look! No leg room-oh well, just for shorter treks. I would probably need on of those "Fatman" steering wheels to get in and out and I only weigh #175 lb. DJ

That is exactly what was required for a friends still low mile 396 OHV motor that he installed one of those "aggressive sounding" flat tappet new cam, springs, lifters. Factory recommended. High zddp oil additive, 2000 rpms for 20 minutes with only the inner springs of the dual springs that came with the kit. Then Install the outer springs also and Run 200 miles with use and then change oil and continue to run a lower amount of their(or others) additive or find an oil that still had a fair amount of zppd. He found an oil at the local auto parts store for around $4 a qt that appeared to meet their requirements but called them first- Factory rep said that was a good oil and will work fine. My friend can also be "thrifty" without costing in the long run. I'll check with him what brand and type oil was/is being used next week-IF this thread is still running? DJ

Turbo on these motors probably would work much better with either a small sized (diesel ?) turbo or maybe better a new style with the dual sized spools inside as these motors do not run high rpms and this newer type will spin up at the lower rpms and at higher also. Love to follow any build you might do! DJ

Many vehicles/machinery had the tach to the gauge by a mechanical connection similar to a speedo cable. Cars had some early tachs by cable and hooked to the generator or other mechanical driven connection point, cam/cam driven gear/ mag. /etc. . My friends 62 Vette was hooked to the distributor as the mechanical hookup which not uncommon in that era. DJ

Are your power assist brake an air (vacuum from motor) or hydraulic type (has power steer pump type setup).? I was think that possibly the assist pressure or vacuum was not relieving after each use and it slowly adds up to where it holds the brakes on. Just a thought. DJ

Putting flares on SS lines is a real PITA. Regular flaring tools do Not cut it... Leaks,leaks,leak! That SS is hard, but can be bought only in a few places that is a softer SS line which helps. Saw it somewhere in a mag.- but where?- Do not remember. I tried to help a friend with SS fuel and brake lines on a 55 C. car several years ago. He finally bought a $200 plus line flare tool from Eastwood that finally resoved the flaring issues. Dry lines-Finally! Using compression type fittings may work?-never tried it. ISS lines do get used a lot on special built cars etc. and they seem to use a 37 degree flare on adapter fittings with a Tube nut and sleeve over the line and under the nut (usually aluminum) that makes sealing much easier- But gets $$ expensive! A trail run with compression fittings on some small pieces and let us all know? I would appreciate that myself.

The Dr's In Thanks for the reply, That's is what I have in my old head for several years as to a-How To-. Tired of flooded spark plug indentations with my 50 Ply. 4 dr. sitting outside all the time-I'm in Ca.- Never rains in Ca.? Well this year it finally did. Hard to believe that people in Ore. and Wash. ( rains and rains, etc.) states lived with this back in the day. Really surprised that Mopar Never did anything to deal with this issue for years Time for me to get er' done! DJ

I agree with maok. With an electric pump if mounted close to the tank always on when running, pushing the gas as compared to a manual pump pulling all the way from the tank I really doubt you could possibly run out of fuel to the manual pump. Even if the manual pump quit working you may not even know it- many have said the electric will push fuel through the manual pump and still supply fuel to the carb. DJ

That looks like what I saw on TV a while back. Easy install-sticky backside and installs almost anywhere. Battery powers it and only requires a tap to turn on or off. Easy replacement if anything happens to catch fire. DJ

A picture?? Thanks, DJ

The crank And rods are both required. Pistons, etc. all the same. If you were closer to Ca., I could offer parts for sale- But the crank weights a ton !!, more than my old back will even lift now. They are out there even the probably best is to find an older 230 complete motor to get parts out of and will most likely the cheapest way to get 'er done. Best of Mopar to ya, DJ

Found this in an old rodding mag -a reader sent in his alternative method to put shifter on a T-5 trans exactly were you want it. Hope this is OK on the forum as it is older AND a reader response, not from the publisher? I'm going to give it a go- members read quickly just in case! Note that it also gives a place to mount the E-brake handle. DJ

Maybe it was not so much getting a toilet seat for a present as it was it Was Not the automatic seat lowering kind?! Inquiring minds- trying to figure out how a woman thinks-- Lost cause?? DJ