uglysteve

Hey junkers any idea if the spline count on your 41 pitman arm is the same as the one that would be on my 48?

I just revisited this thread because I'm FINALLY getting back to working on my Plymouth again. It would be cool to see how Hubler13f had to modify that pitman arm! I did manage to find a stock steering box/column for sale as well as a NOS pitman arm so I honestly may try those out first to see if the box is any tighter than mine now. Anythings better than what I have now haha. I got a list of stuff to fix in the mean time too. Hoping to have it back on the road in the next few months.

Oh wow I never knew that! That's pretty cool.

When you do get to road test that let us know! I'll probably get started on this swap after the holidays. Would be cool to know if one box works out better than the other.

I thought the Dodge's had the fade away type front fenders that went into the doors?

Yeah definitely gonna go this route. I tried looking online and in the shop manual and can't find the shaft size and spline count for my stock box. I'll just have to do it the hard way and crawl under there haha. I bet it's the same. What cars did that GM 525 box come in?

Yeah see that's exactly how I was thinking the vega box would work. With an adapter plate either welded or bolted on. Seems way easier. Cool that gives me a better idea of how to do it! I don't see why there'd be any issues with since you were able to keep the stock pitman arm and everything.

I've seen a lot of cavalier rack swaps on P15s but has anyone done anything different? Like a Vega box? The cavalier swap seems like a lot of work and every one i read about every one is using different pieces from different cars and they lose some of the turning radius. It seems like a lot of work for what it is, especially since I don't really want power steering. I feel like a vega box would require a lot less fabrication and parts.

I've been driving my 48 plymouth with pretty loose steering for a while now. The other day I noticed that I now have some play in the column. The shaft inside the column that the wheel attaches to. I can wiggle the steering wheel up and down, not much, maybe 1/16th or 1/8th inch. Just enough to notice it isn't right. I have the shop manual but all it says is that "there should not be any up and down movement of the steering wheel at the steering column jacket." It does not make it clear how to fix that issue. In the exploded view it looks like that shaft goes all the way from the steering wheel down through the worm gear, is that right? I'm wondering what I should look for to take that movement out of the steering wheel. If anyone's had this issue before. Thanks!

Does anyone know if the steering box from a 49 dodge is the same as the one in my 48 Plymouth?

OK good to know. I am planning to put a 9" rear under it as well. So no worries about the E brake. Yeah I'm just trying to do it cheap so I can still afford to keep working on my 48. Like a fun little side project. I suppose if i found a 50s mopar auto for cheap/free that might be a good idea. I saw that too. I think I could make all those pieces but I have emailed them about it. That's still a less expensive option than the $800 adapter for the stock motor. Thanks for the help so far guys I appreciate it.

I'm looking at swapping a TH350 into my 52 Dodge Meadowbrook. I have a couple options, I was considering keeping the flathead six and getting an adapter for the TH350. Or, I have a 283 SBC from a 57 bel air I can put in as well. I know what everyone says "dont put an SBC in a mopar blah blah blah" but the thing is kind of a "rat rod" I guess. It was a 4 door that some guys in my club built a long time ago. They made it into a 2 door roadster (no top). It's cool and I got it dirt cheap, so I'm not concerned about keeping it original or all mopar or anything. Just trying to use what I've got in the garage to make it easier on me. The only reason I'm going automatic is I have a bad knee and I've tried driving it around with the 3 on the tree and it's just not worth it for me to be so sore after cruising around town. I'd like to comfortably go longer distances. So, I have a few questions. I've read that putting an auto trans behind the 6 will be horribly slow. And the adapter and flywheel kit for that swap is 800 bucks. So cost and HP have me leaning towards the SBC. I'm wondering if anyone can give advice on either SBC and trans swap, or if anyone has put a automatic behind the flathead 6 and what fabrication is involved with that. I have no idea how the 6 mounts to the frame or anything. It looks like the only mounts are by the bellhousing. Is that right? Thanks!

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Ok cool, so looks like my best bet is to try adjusting it first and then look into Bernbaums. Where would be a good place to look for the shop manual? Or can someone maybe scan the pages with the adjustment process and send that to me? I never bought one just because I have a whole different drive train and brake system and everything so I didn't see the point. I did just replace my tie rod ends and everything maybe a month ago so I know all that stuff is nice and tight. The steering feels smooth, I have maybe 3 inches of play in the wheel. Thanks for the help guys!