plymouthcranbrook

I watched our former member The Wizard taste various liquids from cars to see what is what. Not my idea for sure but...

I have my car set at factory specs and it runs just fine. No stumbling or hesitation and gas milage is as good as it ever was.

When I got my 52 the distributor was set at 5 O’clock position. Car ran fine but since I wasn’t sure I with the help of my neighbor loosened the oil pump from the block and moved the rotor to the correct position. Car still ran fine thus telling me that as long as the engine fired on the top of the compression stroke location on the distributor doesn’t matter.

To my continuing amazement I have never found any evidence of animal infestation in either of my old cars or for that matter the modern ones either. And my modern SUV sits without moving for days at a time especially in Summer I really don’t go out of my way to do any preventative measures. Just keep the windows and vents closed when the cars are in the garage. I don’t live in Hamelin either. The cats and snakes around here must eat well. That said my 52 must have had issues before I owned it (20 years ago) because parts of the lower frame were soft and I did pull out nesting materials shortly after I bought it.

Hello and welcome

I cannot really say but to me in a situation like a clutch where a spring pressure is spread over the whole flywheel I would be concerned that you might not get a full release when depressing the clutch. It also might wear unevenly. Others may have more knowledge but that is my opinion.

Welcome to the group. Great folks here willing and able to help in any area you might have questions about.

The first time I did it I got my wife to help. Did one later but don’t remember having any big problems with it.

I was more thinking of an alternative gauge to crosscheck the operation of the in dash gauge. They can fail as well. That said from martins last post It no longer seems to be needed since he says it is making a lot of noise. Engine most likely needs work.

Well before going anywhere else get a mechanical gauge and use it to check to see if it is the gauge or the engine. Before you shut it off did it make a lot of mechanical noise or was it quiet?

Does it bog down at higher revs in the lower two gears.

Could the tapping be lifters? Have they been adjusted?

Short runs without coolant are ok. But anything more than a few minutes are not a good idea. If you fill it with coolant(can be just water for temporary usage but don't leave it that way when it gets old) and seal it you can run it for a bit longer but really I would consider getting any fairly reasonable radiator and if you are going to run it for a while, an electric fan to blow through the radiator while it's running,

Marine tanks are sealed and able to be moved around without spilling. As in a boat on the water. One way in, one way out. Probably with a shut off as well.

I have one for turning over the motor while tuning and I just hook it up to the solenoid where the negative lead comes from the battery and the other lead to the first small terminal next to it. Works fine for me.

Outboard Motor Tank?

Give John a call(phone) here. He literally knows all about carbs of all makes and models and is willing to share information without any sales pitch or pressure https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/

You might try these folks. There are other Mopar specific yards as well. Ask you buddy Google for help. http://mooresautosalvage.com/

A bargain at twice the price: https://www.amazon.com/Its-Weird-Being-Same-People/dp/B09BKCPJVR/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B09BKCPJVR&psc=1

I kept mine with exhaust heat as my manifold is in good condition. I did see the adapter that Langdons has for use with the headers they sell. I don’t really drive my car after it gets beyond modesty cold so I have no problems. I will be interested in seeing how your setup works

I agree that the major issue is fuel volatility. My 52 has a modern EMPI carb mounted on a pedestal adapter and still on a very hot day(90+) I occasionally have a situation where the fuel in the carb boils over into the manifold and makes a restart after a short wait a bit harder with a over rich response when it starts.

Handsome boy. Happy for you both.

Make sure the hole in the master cylinder that allows pressure relief is open. Open the cap and gently push the pedal. You should see a small fountain just behind the hole where the piston is. They often get blocked and need to be opened up with a small wire. A search will give more information.

I think we need to remember that the Wizard is first and foremost a media person. I suspect he never intended to keep the car long term as his main business is making videos for YouTube and also cable tv shows. He and his fellow producers are always buying and selling cars. I am sure he has some favorites but I have heard him speak about driving this car or that car around but very few of them are around very long. I don’t doubt he enjoys, maybe loves cars but unlike us it seems his attachment to old cars is not as firm. If you see one of his latest where he says he is no longer going to work on old cars in his shop he mentions he doesn’t even want to own one anymore. Unlike many of us who seem to genetically mandated to own and work on our old vehicles.

Your local auto parts store should have them. I bought the one for my 52 at NAPA. Rock auto lists several options as well.