plymouthcranbrook

Either those are giant wheels or the smallest rotors I have seen in a long time. What kind of stopping distance does it have?

He relocated shortly after posting that.

Except make the invoices for $5000 each and be sure your insurance has a good towing package. Oh, and get a couple of big drip pans for your garage floor.

You are discovering what everyone who drove a car knew 50 years ago and back knew. Something that is completely missing from modern cars. That cars, like people, have personalities. Likes and dislikes, demands and requests, to operate in any manner at all. The more you learn about your car and respect its needs the better it will run. And the more enjoyable your time with it will be.

Arcing the shoes to the drums makes them work better immediately by matching the entire shoe to its drum. Avoids the reduced braking until it works itself in.

Depending on what is in your car now it might with minimal effort . If you have a 23 inch block I have read moving the Radiator to in front of the crossmember is necessary for sure. I bet others have done it and will have more detailed information. Try doing a search and see what comes up.

Here in Illinois our EA plates turn into pumpkins on November 1st except for National Emergencies so I am packing as much as I can into this last week.

You can also contact Moores in I believe South Dakota. I bought a couple of things from them a while ago and had no problems. http://mooresautosalvage.com/

I have the Langdon Empi carburetor on my 52 which sits on an adapter that is somewhat tall. If the outside air temp is really high sometimes there is a momentary delay but usually not. I have more issue with my stock 80 Volare than the Cranbrook.

Although I have never built a complete engine from scratch I will suggest that unless you trust the machine shop completely be sure you check that all the oil and coolant passages are clean and clear. You might already know this and thus can safely ignore my post but I felt it needed to be said

I have had this happen. I took home a brand new battery from a major regional retailer a couple of years ago that was meant to replace one that died early. When I installed it was stone cold dead. I made them test the next one before I left the store.

This is one of the many reason I do almost no work on my 2016 Chevy Traverse. I don’t have the knowledge or test equipment to do the work and with everything computer controlled I never know what I might do that could “brick” the truck over reprogramming. I hope to never have a vehicle newer than what I currently own.

I put a new band On my 52 a couple of decades ago and I remember just having the manual to go by. It is a bit complicated I agree but I finally got it. I am glad your error didn’t cause more problems for you. I expected you post to say you did what I one did shortly after getting mine on the road for the first time. Forget to release the handle and drive about three miles before noticing it.

That is sad news. It looks like a dead tree from what I can see. Did you have a bad storm that took it down? Or maybe a tree that should have been removed but the homeowner thought maybe next year?

I replaced the shocks on my 52 Plymouth about 20 years ago and I believe I bought them on E Bay before it went to bleep. Today I would use any name brand shock since as far as I know they are all made in China, probably in the same factory. The front shocks due to the design really don’t do very much unless you go to the effort of changing the front shock mount as has been described in several posts.

Look here They are now Stellantis Historical Archives. Danielle Szostak appears to be the go to person. Her email address is Danielle.Szostak@Stellantis.com This is the text of the email I sent to her in Feb of 2022 "Are you still fulfilling requests for vehicle specific data that Chrysler Historical once provided?" This is the text from her e-mail to me: "Thank you for contacting the Stellantis Historical Archives. At this time, we would like to thank you for being patient with us while we work through our backlog of requests with a limited staff and partial office hours. To order a build record, please provide us with the information on our order form, which is attached. A copy of the title, registration, or notarized bill of sale is suitable. There are no exceptions to this policy. All orders will be answered in the order they were received and sent in the first quarter of 2022. A high resolution PDF copy of the build record will be emailed to you to help speed up the process. Thank you for your understanding in this matter. We look forward to assist you with requests." I received an E mail of mine in 2023. A letter gave the selling dealer info

My 1952 Plymouth came from a dealer in Manitowoc, Wi. The original dealership is gone but apparently the franchise still exists today. I did find the obituary of the original owner on line. From what I could tell the car spent it’s entire life in central and northern Wisconsin until it came to Illinois in around 2000 or so.

It is often suggested to leave the nut on a few threads to keep the drum from attempting orbit.

Since for various reasons I never seem to accumulate many miles on my 52 Plymouth I tend to do changes every two to three year regardless of milage.

I just received a set from these folks for my 52 Plymouth Cranbrook four door. I haven’t been able to install them yet so seeing the pictures of yours makes me much more comfortable about my purchase.

Is it possible for you to make a drip rail and suspend it from the center rod with a slope in the direction you want the water to drain towards. Probably to the rear but I don’t know enough about your engine compartment layout to say for sure.

The Chrysler corporation we all knew and loved died a slow lingering death decades ago.

I agree with the use of Redline. My 52 Plymouth would crash going into second gear unless you shifted very slowly. Now no further issue. Also make sure your linkage is adjusted correctly as your remark about a short throw to second makes me wonder if that is part of your problem

Regarding oil 10 seems to be an awfully light oil. Especially in warm weather. Did you miss write your answer. I use regular 10w-40 oil in my 52 Plymouth and have good pressure with no usage issues.

If it is running well otherwise the mixture is likely ok. The plugs and tailpipe will tell