plymouthcranbrook

First check to see if the line back to the tank is not plugged. If you have compressed air use a blow gun and try blowing through the line back to the tank from the fuel pump. If that is clear re connect the fuel line to the pump and then disconnect the line at the carburetor. (Note, disconnect the coil from the distributor) Try cranking the motor with the disconnected line going into a coffee can or some type of metal container. Fuel should come out in a steady pulse and pool in the can. If nothing comes out or it is very slow the diaphragm in the pump might have a tear in it or a hole. Older style rubber can be eaten up by alcohol in the gas. You can also see if while cranking it if you feel any pressure coming from the line while cranking the engine.

My late Father used to say we had only two seasons here. Winter and July.

I wouldn’t bet on any old car to appreciate in value. Especially the ones those of us here enjoy. Relatively inexpensive to buy and reliable to operate. But increasing in value is certainly nothing to count on.

And here in Northeast Il. I am hoping all the snow stays south and west and we just continue have the rainy wet snowlike stuff that so far has melted upon contact with the ground.

That is Pfeiffers , it is the one I use and was talking about they are very good. They were an excellent transmission shop for many many years and I think the new owners decided that transmission work being what it is today they want it to be a general shop and since the only other shop, I know of that works on the older cars is in Fox Lake Illinois if they still do this has been very convenient for me living in Zion.

At 73 I have dramatically slowed down as far as physical work goes. 40 years of picking up heavy things and putting them down as fast as I could 8-12 hours a day 6-7 days a week have taken their toll. Add to that crappy genetics as far as arthritis goes and here I am. I still try to do lighter stuff on the cars(except the 2016 Traverse, too complicated for me) and heavy repairs get farmed out. Luckily there is a repair shop not far from me that has changed from a transmission shop to general repair and they work on old cars as well. And do a good job at a reasonable price. My Son-in-Law or my daughter get to help with heavy household stuff. I am planning to undergo a heart procedure that will eliminate the need for blood thinners and after that I intend to make friends with a good orthopedic surgeon. As I told my Doctor, hell I could screw up and live 10-15 more years.

No but for a few years after I bought it we used a picture of it in the return address labels for our house. Until sending snail mail became functionally non existent.

I have found as I will bet many of you have as well that I am very rarely annoyed by what other drivers do. I have been driving for 56 or so years and if I haven’t seen it all I have seen most of it. I watch while out and try to figure out what dumb way a driver will respond to any situation and expect that to happen. I avoid driving before 9 AM and after 4PM if possibly as the number of clowns out there are less. I still will drive in those hours if I have to but carefully. And when someone cuts me off or does something stupid I find that what’s left of my manhood just doesn’t care anymore. Just let it go and hope it goes far away.

Well, coolant is an antirust as well as an antifreeze compound. There is moisture in the air so if it was me and I was planning on driving it soon I would(assuming it does run) fill it with antifreeze and run it to fill the system. My 52 sat for several years not running but I still kept it full. Now that it has been running for 10 years my coolant is still clean and green even though I only change it occasionally.

Ah shucks Keith, you will turn our heads. Glad you had a good time.

As with most of us I suspect I rarely drive my 52 in cooler weather and never In really cold stuff but on the occasions I do use the heater it works well enough to keep me comfortable when the outside air is in the upper 40’s. I had the radiator and core checked and repaired about 20 years ago and other than the occasional antifreeze change have just driven it. And of course adding the new 57 Chevy heater control valve?

I really no longer have one. The only independent one closed a few years ago and the local NAPA (that was family owned for decades) sold out to a corporate entity a couple of years ago. When he did that all the long time employees retired or left taking all the generational knowledge with them. A few women are all I have seen in my infrequent trips there but although they are nice snd polite and even found a couple of 52 Plymouth parts in the computer all the books are gone. And they left the long time building and moved into a strip mall where a dollar store was. Now with the exception of Autozone all the big three O’Reillys, Advance and NAPA are all within a block of one another.

I expect your question is from idle curiosity as I can’t see a reason to ever try any car with an extra drain on the battery. I don’t even like the modern cars that the headlights are the first thing turned on when starting. Maybe someone in the distant past did a work around to stop a family member from doing this after tiring of having to go out on winter morning’s to jump start the car?

I used POR-15 about 20 years ago on my 52 Plymouth. It sure is a PITA but there hasn’t been any return of rust I have ever found.

It looks really good. Keep us posted on how it goes.

You can also use a sturdy rubber line. I have a length of fuel line on my 52 Plymouth and it works fine. Unless you are looking for the factory stock look.

Board still appears to be in existence so you must not have destroyed it. And honestly I don’t remember what the post(s) you are referencing anyway. Everyone gets carried away occasionally. Most of us find our way back.

You might post on Craigslist or somewhere like it a “Free to good home” ad detailing the issues and see if anyone wants it. Or donate it to a local charity. They usually pick up free and you get a very small amount off your Federal taxes.

I have had vehicles that just will not fill at certain stations. Specially a 2001 Astro that would not take gas from pumps at Thortons. Anywhere else was fine. No idea why.

Well if mileage checks become a standard I will save a lot on taxes. Both on classics and modern drivers.

New batteries can be bad out of the box. I had this happen with a Farm and Fleet battery a few years ago. Try an older model “dumb” charger if you have access to one as they don’t care what the starting level of the battery is. Have you tried jump starting the car?

When I did my 52 back in 2006 or so I did not remove the flywheel. It looked good and a ruler over the face showed no real imperfections. I did change the pilot bearing which was a battle that I probably did not have to do. I wasn’t as careful as some about exact replacement of components as I have done several clutches in the past with no problems. Mine still works good today. That said if it were to act up now I might just sell the car reather than attempt to retackle it.

When my old Allied jack started slipping back around 2000 they were long out of business. No body had parts but a local NAPA guy sent me to a local hydraulic hose builder. I took the old seals with me and had a new set in two days. I installed them and it has worked ever since.

While intellectually interesting especially after read this I am glad that it is one subject I will never have to personally deal with.

On my 52 Plymouth to drain the tank I believe I used a half inch drive socket extension. Been a long time but if it was something fancy that I had to buy I would have remembered it. Same as on the differential.