plymouthcranbrook

Don't forget the pilot bearing in the flywheel.

A big project but if it will save the truck...worth it.

Well this is really a Mopar site but in general do the usual things. Make sure the points are correct, wires clean and tight, rotor and cap not corroded. Try to trace where you last had spark. At the points, from the coil etc. Then you can look further down the line to try and troubleshoot. For example if there is spark coming out of the coil you know the problem is in distribution. Cap, rotor, wires etc. Make sure your grounds are good and the battery fully charged If the wiring is original there could be a broken wire in the harness or in the distributor. Many new offshore made parts are bad from the box as well. I don't know what else you have changed recently if anything. Also lastly make sure you replaced the plugs gapped correctly and also firing order is correct. You might also want to post here: https://forums.aaca.org/?_fromLogin=1 They have make specific forums as well as a lot of smart experienced people as well who might be more familiar with Pontiacs.

As of when I left the POC in 2017 the still were collecting data but that said I never saw any published totals. Supposedly you could get a member roster on disc if you wanted but never saw one of those either.

Although I have not seen any issues with either viper lock or heat soak on my 52 with all stock fuel set up I wonder what if anything might change when I install the Langdon carb setup. 2 bbl is on a adapter that raises the carb a couple of inches it looks like. I have a mechanical pump and no assist from an electric pump.

It’s not just WWII that people don’t know about or remember. It seems like anything that happened before last Tuesday is long gone unless it is what some rap artist wore at a concert five years ago.That they remember

Although you most definitely have a 251 it is of note to remember Canadian engines no matter what Cu. In. they were are 25 inch long engines. 251 cu in (4,106 cc) 1942 120 Chrysler Royal/Windsor (C-34) 3 7⁄16 in (87.3 mm) 4 1⁄2 in (114.3 mm) 1946-1949 114 Chrysler Royal/Windsor (C38) 1949 116 Chrysler Royal/Windsor (C45) 1950 116 Chrysler Royal/Windsor (C48) 1951-1952 116 DeSoto Deluxe/Custom (S15) 1951 116 Chrysler Windsor, Deluxe (C51) 1953 116 DeSoto Powermaster (S18) 1954 116 DeSoto Powermaster (S20)

Make sure you have the correct cap and tuneup parts for your distributor number. Caps are different depending on which one you have . Order parts using distributor number from a reputable seller. If the cap is too tall a weak or no spark condition can occur.

Although Keith’s is most likely right about the end result I have helped my neighbor start rebuilds he did by pushing the car with my truck up to about 15 mph or so and gently letting the clutch out in second or third gear. Always started and one I know of ran for several years afterward without trouble until rust reclaimed it.

Shhhh. They are hoping you don’t know that.

Really looks great.

Cleaned mine 18 years ago in prep for POR15 treatment. Wasn't really too bad mostly surface rust and a modest amount of grease on the front end. Hardest part was the old partly loose original undercoating. Car came out of northern Wisconsin and not even really rusted. Like most mine never sees snow except through the garage window. Rain does not bother me as much as it does dry. Still it rarely goes out in it.

Here is the current link from AACA on their site. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/341865-western-spring-founders-tour-central-spring-all-cancelled-office-remains-closed/

My older water pump I replaced years ago had one but the NAPA replacement did not. Newer model I suspect

Oh, sadly no experience with that. Wish I could be more helpful

My brother-in- law used to say just run the paint to the bottom and cut off the drips with a razor blade.

A lot of people over carborate and end up with very poor low end performance until the engine revs up. Unless you are spending a lot of time at high rpms and near full throttle you might be disappointed with the engine. Often times for street use a progressive set up works better as it does not tend to flood everything at slower speeds. And don’t forget manifold heating as it is necessary unless you are only driving in a warm dry environment to ensure gas turning into a vapor not staying a liquid. Used to see that in ancient times when everything was carborated and folks would put the biggest carb they could fit on a engine and not understand why the car ran like crap.

Wonder what I wanted to say here?

As always Frank, you sure can find them!

Not quite sure what you mean. Like mounted on a bumper? The ones they use on rally cars or off road trucks?

Now to find either a Saab 96 3 cylinder or a Geo Metro and away you go.

I have seen brush painted cars that really looked good at 10 feet or so. A good painter can really minimize visible strokes. And about vacuum painters. The very first cars I was involved in painting with my late Brother-in Law (paint and body man) we used a low pressure spray system similar to this but of course it was 40 years ago. https://www.bosch-diy.com/gb/en/p/pfs-3000-2-0603207100-v35498 It really did a pretty good job considering and we used it several times until we got enough money to buy a compressor and some real equiptment. My 83 Cavalier looked like a refrigerator with all the orange peel. We rented it from a Rental place near my house.

Depends on what you are trying to paint. And how you important the end result is to you. Big area of coverage, or small area? For a big area a gun is best as you can control amount of paint and adjust spray fan. Smaller item can be covered easier with a can. Another thing is that spray cans tend to spray dry, that is less thinning agent . They tend to hit and stick not flow together . Not impossible to do, but harder to get a good job especially on big areas. With a gun you can adjust the amount of thinner to suit your needs. Makes it easier(after you get used to it) to do a more in depth shinier looking job with more consistent coverage.

Farm and Fleet oil for mine. And everything else s well. Never a problem oil related. For years.(40 years)

I have had the same problem ever since I got my 52. Crunchy shifts into second unless done slowly or trans hot. I put it down to a worn syncro. Will replace with Redline and try.Thanks for the idea.