plymouthcranbrook

Nicely done. You folks start Christmas early!

Make sure your tank has a good ground. Also you can check the sender by removing it from the tank and with the ignition on move the float throughout its range of motion. The gauge should go from full to empty smoothly. If it works the problem might be the float. Otherwise check the connections on the back of the gauge and continuity of the wire to the sender.

Looks very much like the one in my 52 Cranbrook

On the front, right?

No one likes you.

Nice

Free as can be. One of the first things I checked. Thanks though. i am beginning to think that although the icing condition might be it more likely something in the carb is not right. Looking into a Carter YF to replace it. After doing the rear transmission seal.

A sense of History is one thing(of many) i admire about the South.

If anything goes well.

Just a kid. 69

I have used spacers on trailers with no problem. I would suspect since the wheels mount with bolts instead of studs that if you use a longer bolt to make up the difference it should work. I would try it and see. If the wheels cause a problem you can always buy a bigger hammer.

Bbdakota, How long has the carb been on your car? I read a couple of posts elsewhere that spoke about the China made carbs having problems after a few months of use and wondered if you have any info about it. Sounds like a good deal from what you have said in earlier posts.

I found this as well: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-55101-Choke-Conversion/dp/B000CO7CK0/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv5nmq46N5QIVDb7ACh0HHwlIEAMYAiAAEgIU7fD_BwE&hvadid=190499673287&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021491&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1o2&hvqm And just now this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FORD-CARBURETOR-YFA-TYPE-CARTER-250-300-ENGINES-6-CIL-1975-1983-ELECTR-CHOKE-/140798859189?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c84417b5

That is correct

Thanks for the reply. Good information

Maybe a manual choke conversion if the one is still available would be good. Thanks for the very good information I'm going to look into it Thinking further, are the bores on the carbs the same or similar? And did you have to do anything to the jets? I was wondering if it might be overjetted.

Well Bleep!

So is the YF carter carb a direct bolt on for the intake manifold on a 218? What about the linkage, fabricate or? And choke hook up? Looks interesting.

My 52 Plymouth holds about 45 psi hot or cold.. Idle sometimes on a hot engine goes to 20 or so. Never lower. Using 10-40 conventional oil

General consensus at the AACA site is carb icing. I had forgotten that it could happen. Tested the carb today and the base of the carb and also the manifold near it is noticeably cooler than the rest till really hot. Most likely the issue.

I once watched a Cooper make a barrel in person at an antique village setting. Made it look easy but I'll bet it took a long time to get good at it.

Sorry to hear of your friends passing. Good friends are really hard to find and a treasure through out life.

Although I haven't had any difficulty with my 52 Cranbrook I have noticed as the weather has gotten cooler in the mornings there is a tendency for the car to stumble or have a low speed miss while driving in gear at below 40 mph or so. Car runs great when cold and also after being used for 15-20 minutes it evens out and runs well again. It is in the area between stone cold and fully warm the stumble/hesitation occurs. I decided that since it hadn't had a tuneup for about 5 years(maybe 1000 miles or so) I would just up date everything to start. So, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser. One thing I did notice that I did not remember seeing before was a slight variation of the timing mark at idle i.e. a bounce, maybe 1`-2 degrees) . I don't have a distributor machine but did use the timing light to make sure that the vacuum advance was working. Mark moved about 12-15 degrees or so at mayby 1500 rpm or so.. I don't remember if this is unusual or ? so maybe someone can let me know. That said even though the issue seems like a fuel problem I checked vacuum(18-20 steady with a good drop when the throttle is opened and a leap upward when closed). Compression on all cylinders is between 100-110 psi. I replaced the intake/exhaust manifold gasket about 3 years ago and did check for leaks by spraying carb cleaner on the carb, carb base and the intake manifold without a change in speed. When you push the gas down at almost any speed (over half way) the car picks up speed right away with out hesitation. The carb was rebuilt by a local old car repair shop in 2014 and has seemed to work well since until the recent issue. I have adjusted the choke according to the manual 3 or 4 times and while watching it from a cold start until operating temp it seems to smoothly open until vertical. I have not opened the carb up to check any internals and before doing so I though that maybe someone has dealt with this type of problem and could give me some ideas where to look. Thanks in advance.

I first remember standing on the drivers seat(about age 6 or so I suspect) "driving" the `1940 Plymouth 2 door sedan(I suspect it was a Road King) while my Father really drive down the alley next to our apartment. Then at age 7 or 8 the Family went on a trip to see my Mother's family. We drove from NE Illinois to West Virginia in the aforementioned 1940 Plymouth. This was in 1958. Took three days to make the trip(Dad was a slow cautious driver) and I remember at least two breakdowns one happening on a bridge over the Ohio River and a nice old lady who used her car to push us down to a gas station at the bottom of the bridge. I remember being there for hours until late at night while the man at the gas station and my Dad repaired the Plymouth. Latest was today when I drove my 52 Cranbrook to work at the bus company garage.

My 52 Cranbrook has Cambridge script on both front fenders. Maybe someone got them cheap(in good condition) or just didn't know the difference.