plymouthcranbrook

My brother-in- law used to say just run the paint to the bottom and cut off the drips with a razor blade.

A lot of people over carborate and end up with very poor low end performance until the engine revs up. Unless you are spending a lot of time at high rpms and near full throttle you might be disappointed with the engine. Often times for street use a progressive set up works better as it does not tend to flood everything at slower speeds. And don’t forget manifold heating as it is necessary unless you are only driving in a warm dry environment to ensure gas turning into a vapor not staying a liquid. Used to see that in ancient times when everything was carborated and folks would put the biggest carb they could fit on a engine and not understand why the car ran like crap.

Wonder what I wanted to say here?

As always Frank, you sure can find them!

Not quite sure what you mean. Like mounted on a bumper? The ones they use on rally cars or off road trucks?

Now to find either a Saab 96 3 cylinder or a Geo Metro and away you go.

I have seen brush painted cars that really looked good at 10 feet or so. A good painter can really minimize visible strokes. And about vacuum painters. The very first cars I was involved in painting with my late Brother-in Law (paint and body man) we used a low pressure spray system similar to this but of course it was 40 years ago. https://www.bosch-diy.com/gb/en/p/pfs-3000-2-0603207100-v35498 It really did a pretty good job considering and we used it several times until we got enough money to buy a compressor and some real equiptment. My 83 Cavalier looked like a refrigerator with all the orange peel. We rented it from a Rental place near my house.

Depends on what you are trying to paint. And how you important the end result is to you. Big area of coverage, or small area? For a big area a gun is best as you can control amount of paint and adjust spray fan. Smaller item can be covered easier with a can. Another thing is that spray cans tend to spray dry, that is less thinning agent . They tend to hit and stick not flow together . Not impossible to do, but harder to get a good job especially on big areas. With a gun you can adjust the amount of thinner to suit your needs. Makes it easier(after you get used to it) to do a more in depth shinier looking job with more consistent coverage.

Farm and Fleet oil for mine. And everything else s well. Never a problem oil related. For years.(40 years)

I have had the same problem ever since I got my 52. Crunchy shifts into second unless done slowly or trans hot. I put it down to a worn syncro. Will replace with Redline and try.Thanks for the idea.

And one thing Corporations do not like is unpredictability. Safe and steady secures the work and the future. Despite most being mainly concerned with tomorrow's stock prices.

I managed to break one on my 52 Plymouth many years ago and I simply welded it back together and it has worked ever since.

Wonder which one they are bragging about? Japan or Mexico.

Nice that the rules don't specify which grocery store you have to go to.

Looks like the”Jitneys” I have seen photos of from the Phillipines.

I would stabilize it from rust and replace any really bad parts, make it safe to drive and use it as a summer driver. In my opinion more fun that way, If someone bumps it you don't have a heart attack.

This guy had ones I needed for my 52. http://www.fatfenderedrelics.com/stainlesstrim.html

One of the reasons I bought an Astro was exactly that. There are still several running around here, some in commercial use. And with winters here, well that says it all. I Had a trans go at 178,000 miles and a few other things but the only newer car I would have any interest I would be another one. However the newest one is now 15 years old so....

My ex neighbor bought Chrysler mini vans for years(and as far as I know still does) because he got the friends and family discount. About 80,000 miles he would go buy another one because things began to break. Never could convince him to try anything else. My Chevrolet Astro is almost 20 years old and has almost 200,000 miles. Rust will get it before it dies I am sure.

If trucks are like cars there should be a number on the frame I believe on the left side outer face near the rear wheel location.

You might contact a company called Addco at least I think that is their name. They manufacture sway bars for a large variety of vehicles. Addco.net is the address https://www.addco.net/

I like original unrestored the best but that said at some point (and as said, the owner will decide) some level of repair/restore will be necessary to keep the car usable and safe. I do not care for Restomods at all but not my decision to make. I can only decide not to look at them.

DIY on modern cars is a dying money losing proposition. Most folks have no idea of what the cars systems are and also really couldn't care less. One long time shop here has stopped opening on weekends at all and NAPA has dropped paint among other things. We have the big three (Auto Zone, Advance, and O'Reilly's) but only Auto Zones has any real business. I gave up on Advance years ago after finding a brake caliper supposedly rebuilt with a frozen bleeder screw full of rust. O'Reilly's occasionally has a car in the lot but not often. NAPA has two countermen who know their stuff and they can't seem to find anyone else who does or is willing to learn. I think NAPA lives on it's commercial accounts and Auto Zone on at least some of the DIYers but finding someone there who knows anything is problematic at best. We only have one store with a machine shop and that is the one closed on weekends. When the owner retires that might be it for machine shop work around here. Have to go to the next town to get anything done. Luckily it is a larger city and has a couple of radiator shops and a starter/generator repair place. Guess in some ways I am glad my days of doing the more complicated stuff is coming to an end.

Thanks for the information. I will look into it.

Only problem I ever had with RainX was if you use the wipers in a moderate rain the blades seem to chatter across the glass.