Merle Coggins

Yes, your B-1-C would have 15" X 5.5" wheels with 5 X 5" bolt spacing. The 3/4 ton wheels are a little less available, but keep looking.

That is a very good probability. On mine, the accelerator pump passage was also blocked so the gas couldn't get to the nozzle. I had to do some extra cleaning to get it to work properly.

‘54, 3/4ton, B2B??? None of that adds up. You can make up your own fuel lines with off the shelf brake line. Or get a roll of copper/nickel brake line and some flare nuts and make your own.

Inspect the whole system and replace / adjust anything that’s loose. If the tie rod ends are sloppy, replace them. If the drag link ends are sloppy, replace it. (DCM has drag links with replaceable ends now) And adjust the play in the steering gear box. You’ll be amazed how well it steers and tracks when it’s all nice and tight. As I understand them, the crown wheel is made to be slightly tighter in the center position. If you over adjust it when it is off center it will likely bind up at the center position.

Nice looking car. Maybe the outer appearance is deceiving, but if it's in as good of a mechanical condition as it's appearance would indicate maybe it just needs an inspection of the brake system and a good adjustment of all 4 brakes. These adjustments can be tedious without the proper special tool, but it's doable.

Center nut/cap, with the star washer under it. The one on the side is the fill plug. Remove that one first to be sure it's full of lube. 1. Disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm 2. Turn the steering wheel fully one direction, then back the other direction fully while counting the rotations. Turn back exactly half way to center the steering gear. 3. Remove the lock nut/cap nut over the adjustment screw, and remove the star washer 4. Wiggle the pitman arm back and forth while turning in the adjustment screw until all free play is gone. 5. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock again to be sure there are no tight spots. (you can also push and pull on the pitman arm to move the steering gears and feel for tight spots) 6. Once satisfied with the performance reinstall the star washer, turning the screw in just enough to align the locking groove as needed, and tighten down the lock nut/cap nut. 7. Reattach the drag link. It's also a good idea to have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you watch everything underneath, looking for movement in the drag line ends, tie rod ends, etc. Any play in these areas will need to be addressed too. Watch this video for reference...

Your '34 is likely a different configuration than the B-Series trucks.

I just use marine wheel bearing grease and haven't had any issues yet.

I had a look on the Steele Rubber site and they show 2 different seal types for your car. And the look different than what you are showing. https://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1939&make=plymouth&model=deluxe-p8&style=4-door-sedan

I got my windshield rubber from Steele. I did not have to make any additional holes.

OK... Yes, the center bar should have 4 holes for the screws that attach the inner trim piece to the outer piece.

I lost a hub cap on I-94 in Michigan a few years ago. I was on my way to the Detroit area for a WPC meet, in a construction zone, just crossed a rumble strip due to a lane shift. I heard a noise, looked in the mirror, and saw the hub cap spinning along behind me. It eventually hit the concrete wall separating oncoming traffic, then I couldn't see it any longer. There was no place to stop in the construction zone so I had to keep going. I had to go the rest of the week at the WPC meet, and show, with a missing cap. I took the other 3 off for the drive home. Luckily I had a spare at home that I could clean up and put on once home.

I may have a similar thing going on. When we returned from the WPC trip to TN I topped up the gas tank at the gas station near my house, so that I could do a full calculation of fuel use and mileage for the trip. For several days after that I would smell gas when I went out to the garage. I noticed gas dripping off the front mounting lip of the tank and realized that it was probably seeping out through fill neck area, thinking it was possibly a loose clamp on the filler hose. But now that I read this thread I'm thinking it was more likely the sender seal. I almost never park the truck with the tank that full, so I'm not going to dig into it right now.

Your windshield seal had holes in it?

LOL... And you doubled down on my idea...?

Your block may be full of crud. Try removing the block petcock fully. If nothing comes out after that you'll have to poke around through the crud until coolant flows. And if there is a lot you may want to remove the core plugs and flush out the block.

According to that diagram, the toggle switch would select if you want the overdrive to shift based on governor speed, or manually. In the middle position the lockout switch wouldn't be connected to a ground (earth) path, so the circuit would be incomplete. Switch one way connects the lockout switch to the governor. I assume this position allows the overdrive to shift based on speed. Switch the other way would give a permanent ground (earth) connection for the lockout switch. Would this keep the OD engaged all the time? I've never played with an OD trans to know how it functions electrically, but based on the other comments, and the way the diagram is drawn, it appears to be an "automatic" or "manual" selection of the overdrive.

Temp gun aimed at a spot on the head, right by the temp gauge bulb, would be a good place to start. Then work your way down the head towards the thermostat to see if there is a significant change. You can also shoot (aim at) the block along where you see the core plugs. It'll give you a pretty good representation of what's happening inside. You can also shoot the thermostat housing, the top radiator tank, and if accessible the bottom radiator tank, or lower hose outlet. Too much temperature drop from top to bottom of the radiator would indicate internal blockage in the radiator core. 10-15 degrees drop is normal.

When I did a manifold swap on my truck this summer there were 3 studs that came out with the nuts locked on. I was able to heat the nuts, to free the bond, and remove them from the studs. Then I put thread sealant on the stud threads and reinserted them into the block before putting the replacement manifolds back on. If you leave the nut on the stud, and reuse it that way, it won’t torque up properly.

I’m curious to see your air cleaner solution. I’m thinking an elbow/snorkel to a big @$$ K&N cone filter.

Jeff, Does the Grand Cherokee axle have a 5X5” bolt pattern, same as our 3/4 ton trucks? I believe I read that somewhere a while back. The regular Cherokee is 5X4-1/2”, like the 1/2 ton trucks.

What is the belt driven pump on the left side of the engine? Looks like a power steering pump, but it wouldn’t have that unless someone did a conversion. The side windows aren’t too bad to remove. There is a good description in the shop manuals. You may be able to download that section from the DEPTCA site. I would suggest finding a printed copy for future reference. You will use it a lot. You’ll probably need new windshield glass in the future too. It isn’t likely you’ll be able to clear up the frosted areas around the outside. It may be delaminating at the edges.

When they sit for a while the gas in the carburetor will evaporate away. So when you go to start it you will have to crank a while to get gas back in there. Best practice is to crank for short bursts, 10-15 seconds each, with a pause in between. This keeps the starter from over heating. After a couple of crank cycles there should be some gas in the carburetor, now give the gas pedal 1 or 2 pumps and crank again. If it doesn’t start that time try the same thing again on the next cycle. Option 2 is to add an electric fuel pump to help prime the carb after long rest periods.

Grandpa’s truck isn’t a 23” engine? It would have had a 23” 230 CID engine from the factory. If it has a 25”er then someone swapped it in a while back. Your Spitfire head engine would fit then. Go through it again and clean it up. It’ll probably be fine if it was stored inside.

Got it running?