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About willits18

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  • My Project Cars
    1956 Dodge Coronet, 1950 Dodge B2D pickup, 1952 Packard

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  • Biography
    Married for 42 years, 16 children & 19 grandchildren
  • Occupation
    Retired Safety Director


  • Location
    Omaha, Ne.
  • Interests
    Antique cars, clocks, pocket watches, R/C airplanes, model Railroading.

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  1. Thanks Guru. I already picked one up. I am going to install this along with new glass and a rubber kit for winter driving. It has the deep cleat rear snow tires.
  2. It seems to take a long time (about 3 miles of driving!) to get the engine good and warmed up. The heat riser is not working. I have ordered a new spring and will replace it. After the truck is good and warm it will go 50-55mph on the highway. I don't know if they were meant to go much faster. I also got a new mechanical fuel pump and am running the electric from the tank to the mechanical pump and the mechanical pump to the carb. That seemed to make a difference as well.
  3. How fast do these go?? I converted to 12 volts and that definitely helped the loss of power in the first 3 gears. When I'm in 4th gear it seems like it is still lacks some power. I could only get up to 40 mph on a downgrade in 4th gear. I put in a 12 volt electric fuel pump. I took the filter out of the glass bulb before the carb. It has a clear plastic filter. It looks like the filter is struggling to keep up. The glass bowl however remains full all the time. One thing I noticed is that when I turn in the air bleed screw on the carb it doesn't seem to get richer. I pulled the plugs to do a compression test thinking that it may have a couple of bad valves. It does not. All cylinders were between 120-130. When I put the plugs back in I noticed that they are all very clean-look like new! No carbon-they didn't look like they had been used. On a positive note it is running better in the first 3 gears. I wonder if I should go back to the mechanical fuel pump. The electric pump is rated at 4-7 psi. I haven't tested it yet.
  4. I converted my B2D to 12 volts. What an improvement. Everything came to life! It solved the poor-high end performance. Everything seems to be working fine now except the heater blower motor. It worked on 6 volts so I put in as voltage reducer. It won't work on 12 volts with the reducer. maybe I should look for a 12 volt blower motor. How far into the future should I look for a 12 volt blower motor that will still fit in the box?
  5. Update. The weather is more conducive to outdoor work here in Nebraska-I only have a MODEL T garage. I put a timing light on it and made an extension so I could advance the throttle while watching the timing light. When I advanced the throttle the timing mark stayed where it was-it didn't advance. pulled the distributor and took it apart. There is a mechanical advance there. It was not visible from the top. The advance was all gummed up with oil and sludge. I cleaned it and oiled it. It now works fine. The truck has more power now-I made it up a steep hill in 3rd gear! Thanks to all. I will post a picture of my truck. Thanks again, Tracy in Omaha.
  6. When I rebuilt the carb I soaked it for 3 days and sprayed Gumout Carb cleaner through the jet and every other opening and port. I could have left some dirt or small debris in there. I am going to go back through the carb just to be sure. Thanks Merle and everyone else.
  7. Is there supposed to be a chassis ground on 6 volt systems? I rewired most everything under the hood and all of the front and rear lighting systems. I ran a new ground from the positive battery terminal to the transmission just as was original. There was no chassis ground, and as near as I can tell-there never was. I didn't add one as I thought that was how a volt was supposed to be. I have a 52 Packard also with a 6 volt positive ground as well and it doesn't have a chassis ground either. I don't know if that would cause any problems or not.
  8. I did totally tear down the carb. I will just take the cap off and see how it runs. It is not a pressurized system and shouldn't matter. The tune up parts are all new. I will pull a plug and short it against the block to see how the spark is. As far as I know there is no other way to test the spark output. Like I said before when I bench tested the carb it squirted, but I felt that it was not what it should be, however I am used to doing 2& 4 barrels and have never done a 1 barrel before.
  9. The cap looks very old. I doubt it is original but probably from the last century for sure! Would the vacuum (if the cap was bad) affect the fuel pressure test that I just did?
  10. I have good fuel pressure to the carb-6 PSI. That is just a bit high but the carb is not leaking and the engine doesn't seem to be running rich at all. I probably need to go back into the carb. I rebuilt it 3 months ago, but have never rebuilt a Stromberg or a 1 barrel. Everything seemed to work ok. I cleaned out all of the ports and the jet. When I did the squirt test it squirted but I didn't think it squirted like it should. It just seemed a little weak. I have rebuilt many carbs before, but never a Stromberg or a 1 barrel. Anything special I should look for or give special attention to?
  11. I had 36-40 in my B2 shop manual. I will set back to 35 to be safe.
  12. The entire fuel system has been replaced. Tank, lines from tank to carb, filters, and new pump. I watched the glass filter bowl fill up with the pump on engine off and it seemed to fill ok. I haven't tried the original pump. I would have to bypass it and reconnect to the original pump. I will pressure test the pump. If I remember it should be between 3 1/2-5 psi. The engine runs great in the driveway. It idles good and revs good until I put it on the street.
  13. I replaced the cap, rotor, points, and condenser, along with the plugs and wires. I also put the waterproof wire setup on to better guard the plugs. The distributor felt fine. Smooth bearing or bushing-no lateral movement. Set timing and rechecked just yesterday. Still fine and no drift. I set points at .20 and plugs at .40.
  14. I tested the throttle linkage by placing a half concrete block on the pedal and checking the throw-travel. It was almost full throttle. I disconnected the rod from the carb lever and could only move the lever slightly. I am going to add about 1" to the throttle rod to make sure I get full throttle. As I remember there are no vacuum ports in the intake manifold surface. The gasket just has the 2 bolt holes. That being said the mixture is certainly bot rich. It feels like it is not getting enough gas. When I close the choke all the way it still does not get rich. When I rebuild carbs I bench test them doing a squirt test. This one squirted, but it didn't squirt as much as I would think that it should. I'm just not sure. I was going to add 1" to the accelerator rod and if that doesn't help I was going to go back through the carb. I have never worked on one of these, or any 1 barrel for that matter. I am just not sure what it takes to get enough gas to supply full power. I did not replace the advance springs. I really have never done that before. They are visible under the cap. I have not seen those on DCM or Roberts. I don't know of any other sites that sell the old Mopar flathead parts. I bought the electronic fuel pump from DCM. I didn't see any adjustment info or even any place on the pump to do so.
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