Merle Coggins

Remove that nut on the back side of the eccentric pin, and remove the pin. This retains the cylinder.

The problem with a puller is pressing on the end of the hollow shaft without a nut to support the end from mushrooming. I assume you’ve tried smacking the back side of the hub with a dead blow mallet? I don’t think you’d get enough force from a ratchet strap, even if you could hold it securely enough to pull on it. But maybe with some tension on it and some persuasion with a mallet it would pop loose? Once you do get it off maybe you can dress up the threads with a thread chase. I prefer this style over the basic stick type thread file for things like that.

Danielle, Have you tried holding the throttle slightly open when trying to start the engine? If the idle is set too low, or if the idle circuit in the carburetor is clogged up or out of adjustment, it won't idle properly and will die. You haven't stated this, but I'm guessing you are giving the throttle a pump or two before cranking? This would inject a bit of fuel into the intake to aid in cold starting, but would run out quite quickly if the carburetor doesn't continue to supply fuel through the idle circuit. Sometimes even 1/8 - 1/4 throttle is enough to get it running and you'll know if it's an idle problem when you release the throttle and it dies.

The pedal arrangement is different on the FD bell housing. Both pedals are on a dedicated shaft/bracket with linkage to their respective actuators. On a standard bell housing the brake and clutch pedals reside on the clutch throw-out shaft. The clutch pedal is different with an associated adjustment piece. The brake pedal is a different part number too, so it is also different. So you will need to use the pedals associated with a standard bell housing.

3-5 psi.

That looks right.

My truck was originally from Iowa. The Iowa title had the chassis Serial Number on it, not the engine number. While that may not be true for all of Iowa, it's at least how it was done in the small town where my truck was first purchased.

That sounds like a good winter project for inside. Just pay attention to where the rotor is pointing when you pull it out so that it goes back in the same way. Check for bushing wear. Clean and inspect the advance weights and springs. Clean and inspect the points plate and associated advance mechanisms. Test the vac advance unit with a vacuum pump to see if it holds. If not replace it. Kanter has replacement units. They're pricey, but seem to be good quality. I've been running one on my truck for a few years now. Then just reassemble with new points, condenser, rotor and cap. Then you have your spring tune-up half done. ?

If it was a C-2 series I would think it would be close to the same profile. As I understand it the cabs didn't change much from the late C-Series thru at least '59, maybe into the '60's.. But there was a significant change between the early C's and later C's.

Thanks Knuckle... I don’t know what part of NC you are in, but I used to get down to Asheville quite often. Unfortunately since Volvo CE moved their headquarters up to Shippensburg, PA several years ago I don’t get down there anymore. Now Shippensburg is my frequent travel destination.

They can be difficult. But with the proper puller it's not too bad. I don't recommend using anything on the tapered shaft upon reassembly as power transfer relies on having a clean metal to metal fit. If you ever decide you need to pull your rear brake drums you are welcome to borrow my puller, since you are fairly close by.

Hey 40plyguy, where are you in the Badger State? I had a nice chat with ccudahy via private message. I had though the same thing, but he’s a bit farther north. We might have the opportunity to get together sometime this summer at a car show or two.

I knew Chrysler made outboard motors in the past, but didn’t know they made boats. Many of the older Chris Craft wood boats used Chrysler flathead engines. Maybe that’s what got them into the boating business.

Welcome to the “family”. It’s good to see another Wisconsin member. Does your forum name reflect your name, nickname, or your location on the south side of MKE? I lived in the Milwaukee Metro area for close to 30 years before moving up to the Fox Valley a few years ago.

What does the dash and grill look like? Does it match the styling changes of the B3 series? It’s possible that it was misrepresented. My B2C is registered as a ‘51. Likely because it was built in December of 1950 and probably sold in the spring or summer of 1951.

That is correct. On a Pos. ground car the Neg. post is the "hot" that comes from your ign. switch. The Pos. post is the ground that goes to the distributor, which provide the ground when the points are closed.

I got an inline 6v pump from MACs a while back, but when I search their site now I can only fine 12v versions. I believe it was Airtex and has a pressure rating of 2.5-4.5 psi. This won't put out too much pressure for your carburetor so you won't need a regulator. I mounted it inline near the tank and used it as you describe. I found that I sometimes had to crank the engine for a couple seconds to get the pump to start pushing fuel through the mechanical pump for priming. I'm not sure why, unless it can't push fuel through if the diaphragm is in a certain position. I also found it good on very hot, after a short shut-off condition, when the mechanical pump would struggle to pump. I could switch on the electric pump and everything would smooth out. After I'd get moving again, to get good air flow through the engine compartment, I could switch the pump off and continue on. My switch is double throw, on-off-momentary. I have it wired so it'll activate the pump either way. Recently I replumbed it to have a parallel line from the electric pump that bypasses the mechanical one. It still works the same way but primes up every time without needing to give it a short crank. I also figured this would be a better backup if the mechanical pump failed. My pump looks like this

I was able to watch it... That little Allis Chalmers has it's hands full getting it out of the ruts.

It looks like you have the signal switch mounted pretty low. You may find it more convenient up closer to the steering wheel. You may want to sit in the seat and see how it feels to use the signals in relation to your hands on the wheel. Here’s a pic of my truck. This works well for me, up under the wheel similar to a modern vehicle. Since it’s not self canceling you will need to be able to reach it easily after a turn so that you can cancel it.

Yup... my doors work the same way. I tried to cheat and lock the drivers door, then close it to walk around and lock the passenger door with the key. But as soon as I close the door the door unlocks. I now use 2 methods to lock the doors. If my wife is with me I get out first and let her reach over to lock the drivers door. Then I walk around and lock the other door with my key after she's out. When alone I have to get out, walk around to the passenger side, climb across to lock the drivers door, then close and lock the passenger door with the key. The only other "cheater" way is to leave the vent window open, close the door, reach through the open window to lift the handle, then push the window closed. Of course this isn't as secure as the window can be pushed open again, as it isn't latched, to reach in and unlock the door.

Yes, getting the floor boards out is the key. Your ‘40 Plymouth is a little different than the later B-series shown above, but that’s still the key. Hopefully one of the earlier truck guys can chime in here to help you.

? Chrome V-8 valve covers too...

I think the shaft you refer to is the clutch shaft. You should be separating the transmission from the bellhousing so there is no need to do anything with the brake and clutch pedals. There should be 4 bolts that attach the trans to the bell housing. Once they are removed, along with the drive shaft and such, the trans should slide right out. If you are attempting to remove the bell housing with the trans you will fail. The bell housing wraps in behind the flywheel and won't come off without removing the flywheel first, which involved removing the trans and clutch.

The fenders and grill would be the same as Dodge and Fargo trucks of the same vintage, so should be able to find some. Or maybe they're in the back? It appears to be a '48-'49, but it has a '51-'53 hood.

@RecklessBattleBornHow did you connect the output of your alternator? It sounds like it may be connected directly to the battery without going through your ammeter. This would explain why you measure good output of the alternator with a volt meter, but nothing registers on the ammeter.