JBNeal

additional information - original door seal placement

My guess is that they specify #6 for safety and convenience reasons...servicing further away from the cooling fan and closer to the voltage regulator to get all of the ignition settings done more quickly during tune-ups performed at the dealer or at a mechanic's shop

that is a great deal...before I dug this up, my cursory research was finding shocks for $75 EACH on no-name brands...that's kinda pricey even for struts on a fully independent suspension...I need to reach out to Monroe, RockAuto, Roberts etc to let them know this application, if anyone will listen...

From the Monroe website: 66858 collapsed/extended: 12"/19.25" 66858 bushing ID/width: .69"/1.56" 31000 collapsed/extended: 12"/19.5" 31000 bushing ID/width: .63"/1.25" 32207 collapsed/extended: 11.25"/17.88" 32207 bushing ID/width: .63"/1.25" When I picked up the 31000 and 32207 shocks back in '98, the parts guy went to his big parts book and had these on the shelf (!)...when I pulled the original shocks off of the '49 back in '04, I compared them to new 31000 and 32207, and they were the same in all critical dimensions. The parts book says that the B-3-B has 4 shocks (p# 1321268), so I'm thinking the Dodge engineers figured the suspension travel limits were within the specs of the 31000...they increased the shock mount stud diameters for increased shear strength, and Bob's yer uncle, the new 66858 fits the bill on all 4 corners

Since ya asked nicely and we had a nice break in the weather and I had some free time between disasters, I did some tedious engineering work and was able to clarify an issue regarding shock absorbers...I suggest returning the 31000 shocks and order 66858 shocks

While doing some research, I found gaps in information for shock absorber replacements on the B-series. Back when we had a local auto parts store that used actual parts books, I was able to get replacement shocks for my B-1s that matched my originals, so I had some crossover information to start with. Monroe and Gabriel have useful yet incomplete websites for older models, so I was able to verify the technical specifications listed to the parts I had on hand. Since I purchased those shocks years ago, I have acquired several B-3 and B-4 models (though one of the B-4s was stolen by some scrap iron banditos who also cleaned out a small barn full of spare parts, even the copper wire in the bldg). These trucks have rusty shocks on them that I was not able to locate a complete part number, but I was able to verify something I spotted in the parts manual regarding different part numbers for the shock mounts: B-1 and B-2 models have 5/8" mounts; B-3 and B-4 models have 11/16" mounts... The parts manual goes into great detail about getting replacement parts for the shock absorber assembly, but these pages of part numbers are obsolete as I am unaware of anyone economically selling these parts, since the bulk of shock absorber sales are for the non-serviceable assembly. In studying the parts manual, there were several part numbers listed for different applications, but I was able to glean some useful information coupled with the aforementioned crossover info. For B-1 and B-2 models, the Monroe 31000 shocks fit the front axle, and the Monroe 32207 fits the rear axle, for 1/2-, 3/4- and 1-ton models. But the B-3 and B-4 shocks have a different part number for 1/2- and 3/4-ton models, and the parts manual lists the quantity for front and rear axles. So from a cost savings standpoint, Dodge chose one shock instead of two, since the previous front and rear shock specs were very close. And even more perplexing, none of the parts manuals I have list a shock absorber part number for B-3-D or B-4-D models. So judging from the consistency in the overall suspension designs from '48-'53, I am assuming that the 1 tons all use the same shock absorbers, as required...while eye-ballling my '51 dually, it has no rear shock absorbers nor any mounting brackets nor studs to install them...something that isn't spelled out in the parts manual (that I could find)... So doing some digging around on the internets and putting my sleuthing skills to use, I was able to locate by the specifications listed to verify the part numbers missing in the factory parts manual. For B-3 and B-4 1/2-, 3/4- and 1-ton models (front and rear): Mopar 1321268 -- Monroe 66858 -- Gabriel 82065 Monroe does not list the B-series as an application for their p#; Gabriel sorta does...both are more economically priced than some of the items listed around the internet as "rare parts"... All told, I reckon I spent about 3 hours looking at physical parts and scanning online information, most of this while watching the Chiefs-Titans game, after having this research project on the backburner for over 8 years...but now I can move forward with my projects, and others can service their projects accordingly

additional information - Heat Riser Advisor

additional information - Bullseye Halogen Conversion

Verifying in the parts manual, Power Wagon bed sides have part numbers that are slightly different than B-series Express models, so they probably look the same at a glance but that fender area will be different... Power Wagon tailgates have the same part number as 3/4- and 1-ton Express models

I have used heat shielding in different applications, and the material replacement for asbestos has been fiberglass...

The Heat Riser Adviser has a paragraph detailing the manifold mounting hardware installation

C-clamp right next to the working area also helps keep the bars cinched tight on the tubing to eliminate slippage

Build Card information has been discussed with some changes to the FCA website causing some confusion...I've emailed the Historical Society recently but haven't received an answer yet, so I suppose it's back to snail mail for requests...

I have 9 original trucks (2 verified with build cards) that all have a single fuel line from the fuel tank to the rubber hose that feeds the engine-mounted fuel pump, 2 of those where I replaced the fuel line and put the splice in the vicinity of the distributor area of the engine compartment...FSM verifies p# 861852 as the fuel line from tank to engine (104"), p# 1057838 as the rubber hose for all B2/B3/B4 B/C/D trucks

additional information - throttle return spring installation

this sounds like the problem I battled annually for years...I would clean the carb thoroughly, install a new carb kit and set everything to specs, and the idle would not be good at best..I grew tired of beating my head against the wall so I snagged another used carb off eBay for less than 20 bucks, rebuilt it, engine idled well and accelerated nicely...my guess is that one of the passages that I could not access adequately was gummed up with a spec of varnish after the truck had sat for decades and I couldn't dislodge it, or a passage was eroded just beyond specs and the carb was effectively worn out...I recall vaguely that there is a port at the carb base that draws vacuum during operation that can become fouled, but that might not be the issue for difficult startup...

Here's a discussion on brake and fuel line routing from a few years ago...that fuel line needs to hug the cross member under the engine for maximum clearance. Terrill Machine supplies fuel pump rebuild kits, he'll need the pump model off of the casting to send ya the right kit

That water pump is definitely a problem as it is not allowing coolant to bypass the thermostat when the thermostat is closed; your water pump was originally designed for flatheads with the external thermostat bypass. The castings for the 2 different water pumps are also different, so a bypass hole cannot be drilled into your pump back plate to allow coolant to flow. New replacement water pumps are made to accommodate both internal and external thermostat bypass systems... Here's a recent discussion about water pump replacement options

Agreed, if the steering gearbox is within specs, then ya might have the cumulative effect of each of the steering components being a little off showing up as a lot of play on the steering wheel...a thorough examination of the assembled steering system is in order to determine what are the problem areas...maybe turn the steering wheel all the way to left or right, lash steering wheel to keep it from moving, then raise front wheels and see how much play is in the system by working each front wheel left and right, then up and down...probably gonna need a helper for this so ya can see what's going on...

Look closely at the pictures posted in that link...the bypass hole in the block directs to the water pump, not the block water jacket...

typically the switch terminals are Field, Battery, and Armature, and the wiring is similar to the wiring diagram I drew up awhile back...without supporting documentation, kinda sounds like the motor housing will need opening up for further investigation

that looks like an Arvin heater logo

You might want to verify piston clearance to the head before startup...that machined head looks like it will be really close...