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My Project Cars



Found 11 results

  1. I owned a 1951 Dodge Crusader, with stock brake system.. Should I switch to DOT 5 brake oil, or stick with DOT3 spec oil,, with DOT5, you have to flush the brake system,, But do you have to replaced all rubber composants??
  2. About a year ago I bought an e-brake relining kit (came with the rivets) and now it's time to rivet the lining to the e-brake band. The new lining is about .200 in thick and it looked to me like the old rivets were sitting in counterbores about .100 deep (or about half-way into the old lining). Anyway, my first thought was to bend the lining into the band, mark the lining with a fine tip marker through the band holes to locate the rivets, then remove the lining from the band and drill .001 counterbored holes where the rivet heads will go. But before I bend the new lining to fit it into the band, I thought I better find out if anyone on the forum has done this before. My question is whether there is something that should be done to the lining to make it more pliable (like soaking it in water overnight or something like that) before bending it and possible breaking it or is it OK to just go ahead and fit in into the band. After I get the lining positioned correctly in the band, I plan to try using a pin punch and transfer punch to sink the rivets.
  3. It's been years I opened the brake drum, thus I cannot recall the dimensions in detail. The question is; Are the front wheel upper and lower cylinder diameters the same? (thus the rubber sealings would be the same size) See the below "RockAuto" catalog; E.g. WK112 kit would fit "front upper" and rear wheel cylinder, but not "front lower"...? I see front lower has some extra metal pins, but those have much longer life time than the rubber. Thus the question is; If I simply keep 2-3 sets of Dorman 12222 or Raybestos WK112 in by garage drawer, am I equipped to service whichever wheel in my D24? Thanks, Uncle-Pekka
  4. Hand Brake Signal Installation Intructions View File Seems that this switch is readily available, however the complete accessory package is rarer and more expensive. here are the instructions should you have , or find just the switch. Good luck Conn47D24 D24 Hand Brake signal switch Instructions02032017.pdf Submitter Conn47D24 Submitted 02/07/2017 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates
  5. Wondering if there is anyone in West Michigan who may have access to a brake adjusting gauge for an old Plymouth for a friend of mine who doesn't get around the web so well? We're in the Sparta area, but willing to travel to save a ton of time getting these adjusted the right way. Looking to purchase, rent, borrow or whatever we can work out to get this job done. Thank you, Dave 'davitlee'
  6. This should be a really quick one for you experienced folk. I've searched the forum and read the shop manual to no avail. My truck was "rigged" by a PO with a contact switch mounted to the under side of the floor pan. Messed that up when I removed the floor pieces to restore/protect them from rust. I have the original switch (currently unused) on the forward end of the master cylinder that I want to use to move back toward original equipment. Here's my question: If my old switch is bad, does replacing the brake light switch on the master cylinder require releasing pressure in the master or even bleeding the lines? I'd rather avoid a big surprise. Thanks so much for your help. Bob
  7. I have been struggling for some time to fix the brakes on my B3C. Today I got them to the point where I was adjusting the brakes and found that one of my rear drums is not quite perfect. When I spin the drum it always rubs in the same spot on the rear brake shoe even when I have the shoes adjusted all the way in. I have a couple 1/2 ton drums and I slid one on there just for kicks and it fit fine and spun without rubbing. I'm guessing my original drum is out of round. After putting that 1/2 ton drum on there I got to wondering why can't I just use half ton drums and put different wheels on? Is there any reason not to do this? The axles look identical up to the drums and wheels. What am I missing here?
  8. Me again. Laying out brake parts to start rebuilding and noticed new shoes didn't have the holes for the Rivets in the "Rod " or Pin that pushes out of the wheel cylinder. Also, on my old shoes only the FRONT shoes used these riveted rods. Even though the parts book shows the rivets used front & rear. Are the not used any more ? Are these new shoes incorrect ? Should they be front and rear ? Thanks Clay
  9. Gents, I am looking for well justified opinions and long term experience with sleeved master and/or wheel cylinders ---IS BRASS OR STAINLESS best and what are the advantages and disadvantages of each. I diligently searched and did not find this discussed. I am finally getting to work on My 1948 P-15 and it just needs brakes and wheel/axle seals and it should be ready to go. My wheel cylinders look good but the master cylinder has a large rough spot in it from 4 to 8 O'clock. It doesn't look like pitting it looks like an original faulty casting. The car only has 10,800 miles on it. It looks like there isn't much cost difference between the options and I just want the brakes to be reliable and trouble free. I am replacing all hoses and rebuilding all cylinders and think I will switch to DOT 5 fluid. I drove a '35 Plymouth as my only car for 5 years so am well familiar with the brake system and my experience is they can be reliable with sufficient stopping power if everything is up to snuff. Many thanks and all the best,
  10. Both of my '53 1/2 ton front wheel brake cylinders are holding fluid mostly because of the rubber boots. Looks like some severe pitting. I plan on just replacing the cylinder instead of trying to use emery cloth. I've been going through the online manuals and find a reference 5-64-1 for the part. I am using DPETCA information on-line. The details for part numbering look like they changed a lot per model and the closest I can figure is that the B4B of my serial number (853xxxxx) needs two 1393-269 parts. I think I'm reading it right but these things are new to me. I have concluded that any reference to the left or right on the front is probably a reference to previous year models. I'm having trouble converting this data (that I hope I have right) into a part store number. Robert's shows a T-31 assembly with no reference to left or right or front. Hagen's shows 10588 for either side, but also lists 10580 through 10584 for front lower and upper Left and right. In general, they don't specify "truck" so I don't know what to think the part is for. Napa gives a single 17789 for the front but also lists a Left and right for the front as 3595, 3596 and they all have the same picture and NAPA doesn't know which one I should order. The web chat guy basically guessed I should get a left and a right. I'm leaning tow the Napa 17789 but was wondering if anyone could confirm? Thanks in advance Mike
  11. So here is the story so far- My car was just not stopping period so, I did new hoses, new wheel cylinders, new shoes, rebuilt master, flushed the brake lines, adjusted the major and minor adjusters(using the feel method from the tech page), took it out for drive yesterday.... And the pedal is still going low. It does stop the car but it goes nearly to the floor and I can pump it back up with a few strokes to about half way. It never goes all the way to the floor though, about an inch or so of the floor. This makes me think its air but I bled the brakes 3 times. Am I doing it wrong? I'm just getting a friend to pump up some pressure on the pedal by pumping it a few times and then I attach a tube and crack the bleed valves til I don't see bubbles....do I need to put alot of fluid through it to make sure all the bubbles are gone? Do I need to get a pressure bleeder? Any help would be appreciated.
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