Adam H P15 D30

A modern seal opens up the choices of fluid you can fill it with.

Flange yoke: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2471_dana_spicer_2_2_349_dodge_flange_yoke_replacement_for_old_de.html Driveshaft I ordered with the slip yoke: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p9619_1310_series_3_inch_with_spline_and_slip_driveshaft_for_chevy.html My driveshaft ended up being 59 3/4 inches and Dennys wanted to upgrade me to a 3.5 inch tube. After I spoke with them and explained the HP and Torque the driveshaft would be transmitting, they agreed to stay with the 3 inch tube.

I bought a new driveshaft from Denny's Driveline, about 450.00 shipped to my door.

If the GM van/truck wheels are 5x5.5 I might have a pair of 15x6?" wheels in my stash. If you're interested, they are free for the taking

Looking at the top of the firewall, front track width and engine placement would be enough for me. Donor P15s are not that expensive.

Ouch... I'd look for a body, get your old chassis back, transplant engine / trans / rear axle and start over. In the end, much less work.

Crystal Clear you will have to relocate the crossmember for the bell housing / rear engine mounts forward. you will have to shorten your shift rods and clutch rod. you might have to shorten your driveshaft with the longer transmission.

yes

Should work fine, just don't go down the Pertronix module rat hole.

You don't "need" the resistor bypass wire from the starter. I ran them both ways and never noticed the difference. The starter will spin that engine fast so it should fire right up.

The starter doesn't care its supplied 6v or 12v, just don't drive down the street on the starter. I would get a new coil and measure the primary resistance, most will be 1.5 ohms. On a 12v point ignition, you need a total of 3.0 ohms primary resistance. Purchase the appropriate ballast resistor to achieve 3.0 ohms and install it on the ignition side of the coil. Maybe a new condenser but I left the old ones in place if they were in good condition.

If the top picture is what you have in the car, the fluid drive coupling is there. The transmission in the bed is a standard 3 speed, not hydrive. The bell housing looks to be for a standard clutch so it is safe to assume the 3 speed trans next to it has the short input shaft and can't be used with the fluid drive coupling in the top picture. Also, my Wayfarer uses the "stubby" transmission (shorter than yours shown) so you my need to shorten your driveshaft. If you move the 3 speed and standard clutch to a FD engine, some machining may be necessary to make the starter engage the flywheel ring gear correctly because of the above mentioned thicker crank flange. The late Don Coatney did a write up on this with pictures. Hope this helps....

I usually HATE to go this route because it makes it really difficult on a shop but if you didn't authorize the transmission work on a repair order they are in violation of several automotive repair rules. At least you are not obligated to pay any charges you did not authorize on a repair order. Did you sign anything when you returned to the shop to have them recheck the work? Laws vary state to state, where are you located? EDIT: Just read back and I saw you're in Illinois. You have easy recourse especially if there wasn't a second repair invoice written and signed when you brought the car back. https://illinoisattorneygeneral.gov/consumers/autorepair_act.html

Lay it face down on a flat surface, does it rock? Should be slightly convex

Have them refaced by the machine shop. The one on the right looks like garbage

Did you have them replace the muffler and tailpipe or did they do something with the manifold? Have you looked at the manifold to determine where the leak is now? Is it something they messed with? I would go pick up your car and determine where the leak is for yourself. If it's a workmanship issue on their part, did you pay with a credit card? If so, dispute the charge, that usually gets their attention. If it is not related to their work, then you have the car at home and you can fix it. P.S. Take pictures of the problem when you find it so we can help here.

I know you have already decided not to go with the conversion but you could've cut your costs / complexity by a lot if you used an A500 or A518 overdrive TF instead of the Gear Vendors OD.

Hard to tell if you did but make sure to run some sort of spacer between the plate and control arm.

Good point Tim, add a 1/4-1/2 inch spacer to make it all work. Also, if it bolts together it makes it much easier to disassemble the control arm to get to the seals if needed.

Good point Merle! The newer switches may not be able to handle the extra amps in a 6v system. Since none of my cars remained 6v, I never thought of that.

If the wires in you picture are for the dome light switch, you only need one wire. The switch should ground to the body when on. Dome lights usually are ground side switched

Much easier and plenty strong. How good of a welder are you?

I feel your pain with the current crop of people at the parts counter. I have a paper NAPA catalog that I find what I need and give them a part number to order. Better yet, here is a quick search at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Warner-S194-Hydraulic-Stoplight-Switch/dp/B000E72NLI/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=stop+light+switch&qid=1604598987&refinements=p_89%3ABorgWarner&rnid=2528832011&s=automotive&sr=1-3 or here: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-U855-Professional-Brake-Switch/dp/B0012OZO1I/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/134-9558945-0900459?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0012OZO1I&pd_rd_r=fcaedf03-59cb-4746-ad12-199ea1965767&pd_rd_w=4Xvd7&pd_rd_wg=b0Af7&pf_rd_p=ed1e2146-ecfe-435e-b3b5-d79fa072fd58&pf_rd_r=Q0ZYC4Y60363DERKRTCV&psc=1&refRID=Q0ZYC4Y60363DERKRTCV

I used the Rusty Hope kit on my 49 and couldn't be happier. Added a modern rear axle with modern drum brakes in the rear, pulled the factory check valve out of the stock master cylinder and the braking improvement was quite noticeable. Plus you don't have to use fancy tools to get the correct adjustment. My drum brakes worked as designed when I changed them out but I also drive mine a lot in San Francisco traffic so disc brakes are a must, if you live in a less populated (crazy) area maybe drums would do ok, NOT HERE. https://www.rustyhope.com/mopar-disc-brakes

NAPA has the male prong switches but I don't know the application. Pressure settings should be compatible no matter what switch is used.