Plymouthy Adams

a local gentleman (76) was fatally hit and run just a few miles from my house. Have seen him out and about many times, always rode on the very shoulder of the road. This is not an isolated incident and why I have been out so few times on my bike in recent past as these incidents is on the rise as is driver rage toward bike riders. The guy who hit him had the time and forethought to stop, remove the bike embedded into his grille and chunk it to the side of the road, drive off about a mile and abandon the car, am sure if failed to proceed as it looked like it rammed a phone pole dead center, after abandoning the car, then proceeded away from the car and further from the scene and any help nearby and was located only with the assistance of a tracking K-9....I passed by the car parked along the road abandoned before I saw the scene of the accident and told the wife how odd the wrecked car and no sign of an accident there. There were zero skid marks, the bike was well ahead of the point of impact when tossed. Sad day...!

added caster will increase the effort to steer.....one learns to turn the steering as the wheel is rolling if ever so slowly as an aide..with the added caster and not knowing the tires you run....air pressure change could be bumped a bit...again, have no clue your tire pressures...the older bias balloons loved the lower pressure for the added caster they provided at speed...if modern radial and this added caster....run these at the pressure recommend by maker..

as an update the schroons were very good.....however....I think I still prefer deep fried if but for the even coating verse the sagging of the batter air fried...

cam drives the pump...pump has slot drive for distributor tang....time it as you wish in regard to slot position in this manner of drive set up...when you have established TDC and oreinted the plug wires to the cap you in business.....later if pulled and installed and neglected to check rotor position on pulling...you either on or 180 out. The slot only became to be specifically mentioned to be at 7o'clock in later manuals.

I am in the process of making some air fried mushrooms and they are in the air fryer now.....fingers crossed.....!!!

was wonder if any of the forum members has a copy of the owners manual for a Sun CP7670 Inductive Engine Analyzer While I have no issues working this, it will likely be located when I am long gone and unable to teach an heir how to use it. An owners manual stuck in the back of the machine would prove handy then....

I might ask why many folks buy etching 2K primer.... NOTE...as an added and an apology to Tod for my question back....but there are a ton of white papers one can default to if interested. To go into this would require me to write a paper that is already out there for the looking and reading when found. I will not take that time to write and post such an in-depth reply.

not if you positive ground....the wire to the horn button grounds the relay......

if not and 11 month later the problem exists....well, just not that important would be my summation. ?

seeing as these wires are not stock, but crimp on connectors...any of them could well be a suspect/issue as the appearance of the crimp looks to be from each sind and not a full compression of the lug body with a crisp deep dimple...I make this statement in general as many do not use/own a quality crimping tool say like a Klein...the ones that come in the BBS kits are nowhere up to task of a quality crimp. As for the jumper, good known ground to good ground wired of the head light bucket if jumped to there from the 3 prong or to the 3 prong lead that is ground...

acid is as it states, but to be more direct, this is the application of 55% phosphoric by means of the spray gun onto a large item...the last use was the van box of the Morris Minor LCV I am building. I sprayed the box inside, out and beneath with acid...this was done in two applications. The acid NEVER harms solid metal as it reacts only with oxide...the acid is truly a rust eraser when used properly. I did not really take a lot of pics of this....but here are few before acid...after acid and then the primer...

golden years.....you have advance to the rank of the all metal man.....silver in the hair, gold in your teeth and lead in your a$$

if this condition exists both high beam and low beam...I would first suspect the ground has been compromised when the wire caught the weight of the unit on the fall..use your meter to read this....use a jumper for ground as a quick test....

have a good time, I know you worked hard to get the car ready for the event....post a show picture or two....

ask the kids....they may be crafty enough to figure out a castle nut makes a good bike spoke wrench...

you got what you wanted and did this at home to boot...being most resourceful and I am sure fun and rewarding....

IF you are TDC number one....the rotor button will point to the corresponding distributor cap tower.....if not....then likely you are 180 out. As the question of if and how done by PO and and if you wish...you can at this time easily index the oil pump to match that of the position of orientation in the later manuals. In this manner, the slot of the pump will run 7 o'clock to 1 o'clock as viewed through the distributor mount hole. This is not a must...but if say for instance a shop was required later for repairs...they first thought will be jumped timing as nothing matches the later manuals. Your preference your call...

purchasing a spray gun can be a significant cost but one can limit his outlay a bit by shopping a bit and of course there is always the alternate source, and the spray gun is a 'tool' and so buy the best you can afford and with reasonable care most will last a lifetime. Flea markets, pawn shop, yard sales and the estate sales. One does need to know about certain brand names and be able to recognize the gun in front of him if shopping alternate source. I have a number of quality guns here, mainly Devilbiss, Binks, Sharpe and couple Badger air brushes in the mix. This thread brought up the question, where are all my guns...placed away when I went conventional to HVLP. A number of these quality guns were not properly cleaned and cup had paint residues in them. But most were 3-5 dollars with the lightly used Binks 7, a whopping cost of 10.00 with all the accessories still in the original box and also spare nozzle and cap. I dug them out, 4 were as stated bought and laid aside needing cleaned. I disassemble and deep cleaned 8 of the pictures 13 sprayer the other evening. These all shoot very well. The HF purple is for shooting acid only, bought new at yard sale for 3.00 As with many tools I post of, never overlook the alternate sources as your costs can be much much less out of pocket. An abused gun can be detected visually for the most part and signs of droppage and or use of improper tools/techniques to take apart and such will show immediately. You can invest about an hour if super cleaning is needed and have a quality brand name gun for next to nothing. Paint cups are readily available new in aluminum or plastic and inexpensive if say the cup is really dinged up or beyond reasonable time to clean. As always, these deals rarely drop into your lap as you sit on the couch, but getting out and about, you can easily score. I see good spray guns at pawn shops and flea markets and especially estate sales all the time.

good picture, the spare you have shown reminds me I need to mount and balance the rear tire I just ordered in not long back...

these older trannies were notorious for leaking about the shifter shaft input as the seal would dry out on cars that do not get a lot of daily use and keep the seal well lubed. They will leak when sitting...seal when drove a spell...not drip for days...then, drip drip.

383 with A833 four speed, floor shifter in my 1941 Dodge military 1/2 ton

poor thing looks to be a victim of a smear campaign instigated by a guy with the initials J B W I am sure you will do the proper fix on this.

I also have guns for top coat and guns for primer. Beside the obvious tip size issue as stated above cleaning is also an issue. Long before I went with Sharpe/Finex series HVLP my go to were Binks....and again with both primer and topcoat guns on hand. Some will yell loud that this is expensive....yes...it can be....and yes, it does not have to be. I was fortunate to find my Binks guns NIB at places like a pawn shop for pennies on the dollar....My most expensive Binks was 30.00 in this manner. Like all things you can come across a deal, like all things these deals are not often dropped in your lap and proactively pursuing these items is the only manner you will attain them. Time is often a commodity we do not have in abundance so then it is time to weight the pay to play scale and proceed accordingly. Many here have built their shop and inventory over a long elapsed time frame ever seeking the goal and level of shop/equipment they want or need....just starting out and such will place the newcomer at a great financial disposition if the goal is an overnight setup. Just like kids today....they want everything mom and pop has but want it now without thinking of the sacrifices the parents made raising the family and providing as needed. Instant gratification....just like everything else in their lives is NOW and ME

see a couple bonnet girls behind you....allowing you to park on the flagstones without a drop cloth....GM products must not be allowed to attend......definitely no Harleys. ? (I will not apologize...!)

I don't spray as many cars as I used to....the MTBS (mean time between spraying) is getting greater as I get older and I am always nervous of the task as so so many things can go wrong even with all the things you prep for NOT TO HAPPEN....technique can be explained and can be taught as far as established practices....but each painter must develop this with practice....but founded on technique he has the better chance of success early in the game, they will often be a time you will not be able to visualize some segment of a job and must fall back on this. Shadows as you age and your sight likely diminished with start of cataracts will be the main reason you will rely on your learned skill.